Larry's Shee

Probably from the Orings

You're wanting service limit of out of round and taper ??

Learn the terms first !!You're asking what the clearance should be to have the cylinder bored ?? If your machinist doesn't know , find a different one. HINT : it's less than an average human hair.

That's not using that Common Core math is it ??

Is that erosion at edges of steel liner/aluminum casting??

Almost forgot about the spark issue. Soon as I had the engine in the frame I kicked it over, had spark. Few more kicks, nothing !! WTF?? Had already deleted TORS brain and parking brake sensor, installed new plug caps (OEM). Disco'd kill switch and jumped key, good spark !! Key switch was faulty . I cut the harness to the switch and spliced the wires with a heat shrink butt connector and used liquid electrical tape in addition.

That's funny, you posted while I was responding. Glad everything is going well. Uummm, and to think I initially PMd you only because we have the same area code. Like I said, call even if you just need to shoot the shit.

Final note on my end. Basically this got a complete rebuild. New crank, bore and pistons (left cyl was to rusted for just a hone ) All new seals. He brought over some parts to install, chain and sprockets, pro-flo filter/adapter, case saver. Worked out well as the bottom end was together waiting on cylinders. Only road block was the water pump. Manual recommends replacing bearing when replacing seal. Bearing felt "notchy" when inspecting it, and took a couple extra days to get one. I regret not having been able to do anything more with it. My back blew out Fri morning after I did second heat cycle and was waiting for it to cool to retorque the head. You know, final test and tune. Hell, wasn't even 100% on clutch adjustment, only took it once down the driveway. IMO thought it had a bog down low, but he also geared up because he was changing tires. Glad the default settings for the carb work !! So basically any break in procedure is all on him. Another shout out to Lakes Motorsports in Waterford, 4 days after dropping cylinders off and picking up crank, gaskets, and a few other things, the cylinders were here via Brown !!

You try that gearing/tire combo yet?

Holy moly, I don't even recognize her. Even after spending hours with her. 'Course she was a bit more naked last I saw her!!

What do the plug caps ohm out at? Banshee I'm working on no spark was one of issues. Rusted solid crank was major one. Anyhow first couple kicks had spark. Ended up being key switch. Well, I'm out of ideas. Think I'll have some popcorn.

Many causes of hard starting, bad reeds being one. Weak spark being another. I see no mention of the TORS, make sure that is unplugged. No mention of pickup coil gap, .018 at both nubs which are rust free. Make sure Stator to plate and plate to engine are corrosion free, that's your only ground. For "testing purposes" unplug kill switch and unplug/jump key switch. Ya I know, "They ohm out" bla,bla,bla...... have to eliminate them from equation. ALL wires ohm out ?? One end to other?? Pretty sharp of you knowing reeds and spark are not related. I asked the question only to help diagnose the problem.

Only starts when pulled/pushed or only has spark at that speed ???? Lots of difference between the two. Showing signs of bad reeds.

Float level is 20-22 mm measured from carb body with no gasket. Emulsion tube is held by main jet and pushes up into slide bore for removal. Will either solve your issue, no clue, but I do know it won't hurt.

Two things I don't see mentioned, setting float level and cleaning emulsion/main jet tube. There's 8 tiny holes on the side of them.

Guess I called that one right !!

If possible it would be better to thread a joint in rather than thread the opposite out.

Could be a leaking right crank seal if smoke is real stinky from burning tranny fluid. Is tranny fluid low? If whiteish would be coolant leak.

If you have a keyed ignition switch, try bypassing it.

Clean the main jet/emulsion tube ?

Confusing the way you worded it. Just repair what's worn.

By chance are you outside of U.S. ? How well does it idle ? By letting us know what jets you have, we'll be able to get you closer.on jets. No way to tell exactly what main jet you need, as every machine is different. Read up on how to do a plug chop, that's how you determine if main is right. By the way, is your mechanic named Ben Dover ??

Works on big rigs, but doesn't have ohm meter, smh. Might as well get a flywheel puller and Clymers Repair Manual ,you'll need them too. Hope cdi you bought isn't a shitty Ricky or something. Got to love the buy, then research approach. That and shotgun parts replacement. Have to ohm Stator and pickup coil, set pickup coil gap. Where did you find the wire diagram you used ?? Suggest you double and triple check your work! What kind of kill switch did you use ??

Low, side, fat stiçky tires , bet that is a blast to drive on streets !! X-2 on driveline. Best bang for the buck !!

Fucking Rattle Can Ray couldn't get rid of stock pipes at $10/a set, and he's a Jew !!