Larry's Shee

Welcome to BHQ !! First off check your oil level. Is it high or low? Is oil good looking or milky? How's rad level? Generaly speaking bad seal lwould suck oil into cyl causing excess smoking. How much oil you talking? Replacing seal would require pretty much complete disassembly.

Don't talk so much.

X-2 on PROPER flywheel puller , no 2-3 jaws.Leave your 3/4 drives at work . Treat every piece like an injector and you'll be fine. If you think you need more out of the hole then drop one tooth in front.

Hose will keep from spewing on you bike, run from rad to down below motor somewhere. Stock uses resivoir and overflow.

Unless EVERYTHING was exactly perfectly the same, slight differences may appear. Could be as simple as plug ground electrode facing different ways , slightly plugged silencer , yada yada. Silly imperfect world.

Unless there is a nut like device at the coil , no .

Yes

Sea Foam also disolves carbon , less flamable, doesn't evaporate as quickly.

Dumb ass dosen't need a helmet ,he dosen't need a quad. Plus can't ride for shit ,shoulda shifted sooner.

Might want to zero in on your current air leak so you have that fixed when you put your build back together.

If you had race gas in it , YES. The high end volatales evaporate off pretty quick

Well , I would practice your launches or you just might get spanked. You've only got 100cc of stock power over a built ,lighter quad.

Did he wash it after the last ride?

Welcome to BHQ !! Banshee and bottom end is an oxymoron. It just ain't happening. I've never driven a two stroke with "bottom" end. They basically have little or none. Been driving/riding smokers since 1970 and none have much ,including a Detroit Diesel.

Welcome to BHQ. By kick over I presume you mean to start/run. How does it run when you get it going? What do your plugs look like? What gap? Good spark? Fresh fuel? Does it start cold with a snort of starting fluid ?If it starts with a snort (little one !! ) then clean carbs paying special attention to choke circut.

First steel plate aligns with arrow on clutch boss . Stagger plate 60* clockwise with each successive plate , per Clymers manual. Thumbnail explination , hope this helps.

The plastic looks great. I'd of made the "Girls" a different color. Nice make-over !!

I agree 99.238664% !! There you go Elka , snap them up !!

Ok ,I think I have it figured out ,lol. Your wrench looks very simular to my Crafstman. Along the length is the "rough" scale in fifteen in/lb increments. At the end of the black handle is the "fine" adjustment,marked 0 -14. Directly below is "fine" scale for newton-meters, paint is worn off mine so I cant tell what the N-m scale corresponds to compared to in-lb. Hope this helps . As far as value for aftermarket head I would think it would be same as stock because strength is limited by studs in cyls.

Check flywheel pick-up gap , .016 - .018 or thickness of business card. On my son's shee I had to clean the poles on the stator , inside of flywheel and pick-up nubs on flywheel. Make sure you use proper puller for flywheel. Inspect flywheel key if you pull it. If that doesn't work , see if your buds will let you use their stator and CDI to test yours ,swap parts one at a time to isolate which is faulty. Also could be spark plug boots. From what I've seen here coils rarely go bad.

Didn't say you were wrong ,I just didn't understand exactly what you were saying , the minus ten stuff. Also you have a "clicker" type torque wrench , DON'T King Kong it !! When it reaches the desired value it will click and kinda feel like it broke as the handle will move about 1/8 of a turn. Also grip it the same for each nut/bolt. On lower value use I often use just thumb and finger or two for better feel and control. A Clymers is the best "tool" you can have. You do have one don't you?

?????????? i really don't understand what you're saying here. There is a lock collar on your wrench , it's the black ring just below the numbers. Unlock, set value , lock ,use. Also torque in stages. Using correct sequence go around at 10 ft-lb, then 15, then 20 ft-lb. Heat cycle or two ,re-torque in sequence. Also other poster was correct that 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lb , therefore 20 ft-lb = 240 in-lb. Newto -meters is the metric scale of torque values. Clymers calls for 28 N-M for head nuts. Hope our info helps .

I do know that the "All Ballz" pivot bearing kit comes with the spacer sleeve,dust seals, and bearings. Might check with F.A.S.T. to see if it's available seperatly. Little tip ; coat pivot bolt with anti- seize so it will come out of sleeve at a later date.

Also check where cable attaches to top of engine case.

Welcome to BHQ !! From neautral one down , five up. 1-N-2-3-4-5-6 . First is kinda like half click down from N , second is half click up from N . Hope this helps, and Banshees are kinda hard to get into N while running.