Larry's Shee

I fully understand how an expansion chamber works , therfore I fail understanding a 2:1 pipe . Why pay for sub-par performance? Might as well run stock pipes. Even with a turbo I would think two pipes joined at stingers just before turbo would be better. The effort of doing the math isn't worth the effort to understand how it works ( or actually doesn't) because it's something I have no interest in. Personally I think a supercharger would be a better option on a 2stroke. JMHO, your results may vary.

Check with NYUK on here. He's kinda close to you !!

Is it totally stock now? What is your budget? Are you doing everything at once or in stages? All "bolt ons" or you going for engine mods also? Don't forget suspension.!!

9.50 width is kind of narrow for a shee. Might not even seat on a regular rim. JMHO, your results may vary.

http://www.pureoffroad.com/atv_wheel_bolt_pattern_guide.htm Covers justabout every quad made.

A little heat to help wick PB Blaster (or other) shouldn't hurt . Give it a day or two to soak if you can. Even a worn impact will give some shock. Try smacking puller when you have center bolt tight , don't go crazy. Make sure puller is tight into f-wheel.

Do a compression test to see where thats at. Possibility you have stroker domes on stock stroke. Like BigRed said check how it's set up, jugs may be set-up for stroker. Boreing bigger does little for increase, need to go from64 to 68 to realize an increase.

YEAH !! That's what I'm talking about!! Way easier and probably as economical to build . My friend and I built a drag motorcycle with a 500 Cat and cvt and it wasn't easy. Not real fast ( 125 1/4) but deadly consistant for bracket racing.

Yeah, wonder where he did disappear to, Should have been back with some kick ass home port job by now.

Welcome to BHQ !! I thought BB cracking was a myth until I inspected the boots and could see signs of cracking !! Put some plugs in the holes for now, until I decide witch way to go with the build.

Considering there are three and four cyl banshee based engines available I'd take the easier route. Years ago saw an article on a sno-mo engine mated to a shee trans. That's the problem with a CVT, dirt (sand) is not good. I can't imagine the maint and repair on a sand dragger.

Should have left the good piston alone as it already has started to wear in on that cylinder . Then do whatever to the other cyl. You might have an air leak.. JMHO, your results may vary.

J D Costoms has a bracket to locate the bottle and regulator up front , he's a site sponser.

Also make sure you have same needles/clip posistion.

Check kill/ign switches. Maybe take them apart and clean them. Another member recently had problem and it cost him $200 for a kill switch at the stealership. Check all grounds. Parking brake/ or tors box?

Smoothing and polishing ex will help, and help to keep carbon from sticking as much. In take only needs to be smooth, not polished. You could clean up casting flaws in the transfers also. Also welcome to BHQ , the search function is your friend.

Try spraying some PB Blaster down the cable and workin it in ,clean with brake clean , then lube.

Hot ticket for flat track is R-1 or R-6 shocks all around (forgot which one) Stiffer and shorter .

Ghetto slamer !! Even the shock lowering kits advise against jumping with them . Wheel spacers fall into same line,IMO.

3/16 hole right next to main jet , bout1/4 deep , small strate slot screwdriver. pull one from new and old carb and compare number

ok, check those easy things , check idle jets later

Choke crossover tube on? Carbs synced ? Were idle jets same as orig carbs? float height good? carbs clean? Cutaway goes toward air filter (angled side)

Side clearance is measured with feeler gauges , other two with dial indicater. Feeler gauges between rod and crank -side clr. The other two almost impossible to put in words see manual. You can check the big end brg by pulling /pushing on small end of rod. If it moves more than 1/4 of a pussy hair , you might have a problem. Same with side to side of small end. This is on of the few times that a man needs instructions .BUY a manual JMHO, your results may vary

Name ANY other multi cyl 2-stroke that uses a crossover tube ( maybe RZ?) Has anyone actually experienced the diff between crossover or none? Or is this a myth/marketing ploy. Do you have dyno sheets to back it up ? If you did was it REALLY the tube or were your carbs WAY off? I bet I can name more examples of NOT having a crossover than you can with one.

HEY !! Welcome to the H.Q. !! Fresh stock engine is 130-135 , rebuild range is about 100. You're less than 2% difference, 5% is about the limit. They do get harder to start when they start to get tired. Bad reeds , dirty carbs , fouled plugs also make for hard starting. How does it run when you do get it started ? What do your plugs look like ? Only you know how much you've rode in the last two seasons with the ticking and wether it has gotten worse or louder. You somewhat answered your own ? , if it breaks it breaks Long as your not running lean and the noise hasn't been getting worse I'd ride it. JMHO, your results may vary. Have fun, be safe !!