Larry's Shee

Couple things come to mind. If it's cold where you are you should warm it up more. You may have thick tranny oil. Your clutch may need adjustment.

Lack of maintainence is probably the biggest engine killer. Engines wear out , plain and simple. A set of pipes with power peak at 10 grand or so will wear quicker than a low-mid set of pipes. If you ride around in low gear revved to the moon it will wear quicker than if you just run it up thru the gears no matter what the set-up. Someone strickly drag racing or hill shooting probably tears it down at least once a season to check for worn parts because they are closer to the edge. John Force gets a new engine after four seconds of running.

Also, if the price is to good to be true, it probably is ............................................................................................stolen.

1. Choke crossover tube, 3" tube between carbs across from choke knob. 2. Slides in backwards, angled side (cutaway) faces air cleaner. 3. Bowls on wrong carb, one with BB on front goes on left carb. 4. If equiped with TORS , could be problem with it. Disconnect box on left frame by gas tank. BTW, Welcome to BHQ !!

You can do the timing plate mod for free. It's a sticky here some where. After that it's going to cost. Air filter/air box mod is cheap, will add a little. Used pipes can be had cheap, I picked up a set of FMF for $35, needed work& paint. All depends on budget and what you desire it to look like when you're done. Speed is only limited by cubic dollars.

My son picked up his blaster for $100, needed a clutch and has crappy brakes. Picked up his 87 Banshee for $1100, didn't run good and needed other work, couple hundred. Bottom line is you could get a decent Blaster for $600 + or a reliable Banshee for &1500. Not saying you can"t find a good deal for either, depends on luck and location.

If both adjusters don't take up the slack you might have the wrong cable. Mistakes do happen. could it be for a twist throttle?

I made my own wrenches with some scrap cut to fit, two broken 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapters.

Also check the fuel valve and screen in tank. As long as you don't mess with the throttle cables it will be in as good of sync as before. Turn air screwin in until LIGHTLY seated and record that so you can return it to previous setting after cleaning. Remove main and pilot jet for cleaning, record those numbers for referance later. check back in after you complete ALL suggestions.

should be adjusters on top of carbs also.

Depending on budget at least get carbs to start.

Welcome to BHQ !! First thing to buy for it is a Clymers repair manual. If you're new to two stroke tuning , it's best to be conservative on jetting. Spark plugs are cheaper than pistons. Are you sure they jetted for winter? If it runs good now unless it warms up a lot you should be good. If it starts to burble on top end, you could remove snorkle from air box, or if you have anything other than stock filter you coul take lid off. DO NOT do either of these UNLESS it starts burbleing. Safest thing to do is list ALL of your mods , elevation or location , temperature, and jets/settings of carb. Someone is bound to help you. Where are you from? You should be good for the weekend, just take an extra set of plugs with you.

Check with the sponsers. Least wise when they bore it it will be right. Even if a local shop bored it you would have to make sure they champher the ports correctly.

Do you still have tors hooked up? X2 on carb clean.

I was thinking the same thing jbooker. No offense to you but I see two problems. 1. fear of it getting torn off. 2. might look like ass. Get a feel of how long you can go on a tank and keep an eye on it.

You will get an improvement. Just taking off snorkle helps. They do make filtered vents for air box, outerware has a piece for center of lid. If you still have stock filter get an adapter for a filter isn't held by box lid. Any time you increase air flow you have to rejet.

Big reed, little, keeper, blue loctite on screws. Just put them on son's shee, work great in my opinion. Not sure if they were carbon tho, still like them.

Inspect it for looseness and cracks. Lay it on left side ,clean oil off with brake clean, use a little sealant around it. Make sure hose is on tite, no cracks.

Welcome to BHQ Clean the carbs one at a time, they are different. Make sure the tank has only fresh fuel mix. be sure choke crossover tube is on after cleaning. Remove all jets when cleaning . Blow out with compressed air. Set float height . Make sure fuel shut off valve and fuel screen are clean. Buy a Clymers repair manual. Search u-tube for how to on carb sync. Put new plugs in. Stock timing is not adjustable, aftermarket timing plate would be set at zero for stock, most prefer +4 for improved performance.

For future reference, if you have a continuing problem don't start a new thread. Continue with the original. Right now I'd have to look up your first post, read all of it to see what was done, what was suggested , what your set-up currently is, etc, etc, etc, etc.

Are your rear tires the same size? Pipes, his may have more over rev. That little thing, power. Two things to remember. 1. Almost always someone faster than you. 2. Speed is only limited by cubic dollars.

Stock carbs and pipes?

Kooties !!

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Throttle extender or softer springs.