Larry's Shee

The F A I L was for taking it to the stealer and paying for nothing. First thing do do is make sure they did not put stock jets back in You changed NOTHING during rebuild? Porting, pipes, air cleaner, domes, oil/fuel ratio ? Did you do a leakdown test ? What kind of stator did you get? Check that the TORS box is not hooked up, left frame rail under tank. Did you set pick-up coil gap? Did the new coil come with new plug caps? Make sure ground from stator to engine/frame and coil to frame is clean and tight. Is the choke crossover tube in place? 3inch tube that goes between both carbs across from the choke plunger. Is the crossover or boost bottle ( ) in place correctly? Double check ALL connections and switches. Consider the fact that new electrical components might be bad, might try swapping your buddys parts for testing. Coil, stator, cdi. Didn't feel like typing last night, sorry. Post back with results.

F A I L

Check that the bearing where the arm goes into case isn't jacked. Try cleaning then lubericating cable. If that fails get a new cable.

Definately a dumb shit design. Kick some slant eye in the nuts.

I do believe that FAST carries the forks, bout 30 I think. Don't know price for 2nd gear.

The biggest difference in maintenance is jetting for weather changes. Especially if you're at the edge you have to change especially if it's colder. Other than that it's no different than a four stroke on mainteance. If you don't tighten that bolt that part will either fall off or break, simple. Just fired up my son's shee yesturday after some maintenance, repair and makeover to seat the new rings. Made me feel like I was 20 again . Least wise here in Detroit area that kind of money will get a nice one. Been seeing a nice 87 that last summer was asking 2700 , last time I saw it was asking 1700 on C L. Welcome to B H Q !!

Bead blast , hot tank at transmission shop, some kind of acid they use on big trucks, scotch brite pad with elbow grease. Maybe make the pic a little smaller.

You don't have to shout. What type of riding will you be doing?

With a 10mil only time he'll ride that ex is to catch his breath

450ish used and 418 new? I knew I should have skipped the 70s.

You will think I'm crazy, but pull your pipes off and check for mouse nests. Just a thought. Have heard of it before. Did you check that your jets were clean before you put them in? Then start going through all electical. Ohm stator, coil, cap. Make sure all grounds are clean, no rust. On my son's shee I had to clean rust off stator poles and lugs on outside of flywheel to clear up a one sided miss.

Just race him and be done with it. If he does beat you good reason to mod it more.

What kind of riding do you do? What is your budget? What do you have on it now as far as mods/bolt ons?

What they said ^^^. 10w-40 is just a weight. Automotive engine oil and motorcycle oil are two different things, but can be same weight. Some use ATF type F and just change it more often. When you drain it give it a good amount of time to allow as much as possible to drain out. I would do another change on a shorter interval just to get more of the bad shit out. Oil is cheap, clutches aren't. JMHO, your results may vary. The bit about water in oil is because waterpump seal can leak, also o-ring on coolant pipe. A Clymers repair manual will be your best friend.

Presuming toe is good look at the stops on the frame , they do get worn.

Yeah the site has been down for couple weeks. Thinking of gettin them myself because never see them used very often. I do know Stellar is less $$$ then the only other fabricater that I found that even makes J-arms. Don't recall who it was, plus stellar is a site sponser.

Dam, sold in two minutes

Didn't notice before you were in Mi , sorry. Check with Mike at Lakes Motorsports in Waterford. I belive Tricked Carbine on here has an engine by him. http://www.lakesmotorsports.com/

Who did the big bore and what is your squish?

Some set-ups may require different needles. If all you're doing is swapping carbs just match set-up. Personally I would just swap jets and needles, why buy identical parts? As to float height I would run the highest fuel level.

Waht you saying? O P isn't in Mich. Far as I can tell I'm the only poor basturd from Mich.

Basically is the lean codition heats the plug to where it's hot enough to ignite the fuel without a spark, like a glow plug in a rc car. Might as well clean carbs good and check fuel petcock and screen, clean tank. Pay close attention to carb boots when testing, where crossover/ boost bottle nipples are.

Theroredically keeps from having a ruaway engine if the throttle sticks. Usually causes more problems than it's worth 99.999% remove or delete it.

Did they come up with a solution in the video thread? If so did you try it? If not , list all jets/settings in your carbs. Sounds like a little lean on pilot jet/ air screw, maybe needle.