Larry's Shee

Is this a new set-up? who ported it, Lakes? I'm just north of Clarkston. If Mike ported it, just wondering how it runs.

Did you just add the pipe & filter? Try 27.5 pilot, 290, 300, 310 main. 1 1/2 out on screw, middle notch on needle. Read sticky "What jets are you running" you might find simular set-up that will get you even closer. Then it"s up to you to tune it in.

Welcome!! Did it start running bad all of a sudden? Something that got progressively worse? Did you change ANYTHING dealing with intake or exhaust? More info is needed. Alist of modifications might also be helpful.

It's a calculated risk. If piston to cyl clearance is well within tollerance and taper/out of round, you could get away with just rings. But depending on tollerances you probably won't get 200 hours more on just rings. Be sure to use new piston pin cir-clips. I had to tear my son's down after he filled the motor with muddy water and just put rings in it. This is why you don't want to down your bud with the blown 450.

right there 244, there's a reason they sell complete motors, ready to bolt in BTW, don't rub it in, just remind him at a later date

Welcome to BHQ !! Be sure to check your jetting with new pipes.

Have you ever had this engine apart before? What does the end of the pin look like on that side? was there a cir clip there?

When you say you tore the engine down, what do you mean by this? What is the compression on engine. What is it doing that it's not running right? What do your plugs look like? As to carbs I'm not familiar with your set-up. Look around at other threads to see what others are running, also sticky titled "What jets are you running" I'm with you on the oil muggzy. The factory owners manual calls for 24:1 oil. There is a reason for that. I'm running 28:1 Klotz benol. There's a good read on Blaster forum on oil. I can live with less power and maybe a fouled plug now and then.

More info is needed as to how it's running. There is a complete procedure in the Clymers manual. Short story is you make sure slides go up at same time and marks are visable in little windows on side of carb. As to tuning the bike has to be running, and adjust according to what area of throttle opening is not right. Many times a seller will post ad saying carbs need cleaning/adjusting, which may well be the problem, or it could also be bad reeds or need new top end. This applies to ALL motor vehicals, not just Banshee. A poorly running Banshee is not worth 2000 UNLESS it has a shit load of extras on it,ie shocks,a-arms, beadlocs , etc,etc,etc. If it snorts, burps, farts, backfires, sneezes, bogs, doesn't run perfect offer way less because if YOU can't fix it a shop will probably fuck you for at least $300$$$$ to fix it. JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Also make sure to tell the guy that it has to be stone cold when you come to look at it so you can see how it starts cold. If you get there and engine feels warm at all it means it's a bitch to start, and if he gives some bullshit story why he HAD to start it call him out on it.

Only way it can build pressure in trans area is if the vents are plugged. Check the vents and tube to be sure that air will actually flow through it. Least wise around here there is a wasp that likes to lay eggs in small holes and seals them in with mud like shit.

Saw those on pop-up ads on Blaster forum, and actually went to a site to look at them. Liked the looks of the tread, wish they were available in 22s. Think I've seen a Banshee on here with them.

Well everone says to search Otherwise he'd of started a new thread. X-2 on all suggestions. Might be just a tad to full to begine with. What do plugs look like, might be bit lean for long runs.

Try new plug caps with trimming wire. On my son's I pulled flywheel , cleaned rust off stator poles and lugs on outside, set gap to get rid of misfire.Also make sure grounds are clean and tite.

Packed my son's FMFs with 3M stainless steel scrubber pads. 6 in each can, kinda raspy but not to loud.

One other thing is that it only runs until it no longer can pull fuel from bowl, that doesn't mean bowl is empty. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

If it's more of a struggle to kick it over I wouldn't do a comp test. Might do more dammage . What do plugs look like? Somewhere there is a sticky on making/useing leak-down tester, highly suggest doing test before tearing it down.

Consider pulling clutch cover and checking claw to star adjustment and that star is held good to shaft. Also look that nothing is worn badly.

Waste of a Banshee and a CBR . I took a nice big unhealthy shit this morning that looked better

Hey, welcome to BHQ !! Think you need like 15 posts before shoutbox is accessed. You could use a straw to measure stroke, pull pipe and figure way to measure bore. That way you don't have to tear it apart just to see how big it is.

Rode a YZ 490 up a hill once, my brother and his buds were all laughing, said they didn't think my feet were ever on the pegs. Don't think front wheel was touching either. Like I said, once

Check tank vent and petcock.

After you get rid of the head and threaded end past mounting point, pull arm, thro center sleeve away.

Only thing that is cheep is a set of plugs

Pull clutch cover and check shift mechinisim for wear/adjustment. Add new oil when done. You do have a Clymers manual, don't you?

Make sure there are no humps in the line, all down hill from petcock.