Larry's Shee

If someone can't hear a Banshee coming run their ASS over. That or you're trying to make your Banshee gay as a three dollar bill

Welcome !! List your mods and we can help you spend your $$$$$$.

What do you mean by "bigger cylinders" ? What type or riding do you do? IMO, 38 would be to big for anything but all out drag.

I had simular situation with bulk fuel line, glad I caught it before I got phantom problems like yours.

My bad, only clicked your linc. X-2 on what Zilla said.

I would say no. If you read description closer it says for utility quad.

Check with NYUK also, he might have some

I would re-torque all in the proper order

I might not know everything, but think your choice of pipes is working against you with the porting you have. It might not be the carbs fault. JMHO. Your results may, and will, vary.

I have not but member Snopcinski (sp?) has hydro dipped camo on his

Did you remove pilot jet when you cleaned them? Did you Look at them to see daylight thru them to be sure they're open? Also try adjusting idle air screws. Did you jet up when you put filter in? X-2 on posting jetting. Are slides in correct carb? Choke crossover installed? No air leaks?

not a good sign,maybe try re-torque head nuts. Maybe someone with more experience with this set-up will chime in.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 I know it is a lot to sift thru but you should find a simular set-up and you WILL see that you are running WAY LEAN. Hell, just a filter and box mods needs 2-3 increse on main. I'm running a few bolt on mods and I'm at 310/27.5 pilot. Probably fat, might have left a horse or 2 on the table but plugs are cheaper than pistons. JMHO, your results may, and will, vary.

Long as it is rated for "wet" clutches it should be fine. On the side of the clutch cover there is a marking like 2300cc, that's amount it takes. You should be fine on choice of pre-mix oil and ratio.

Are you pushing choke in soon as it starts? Maybe try only pushing in halfway for minute or 2. Might want to clean carbs again. As long as it set I would get some Berrymans carb dip and soak them bitches , be sure to completely dissasemble and don't soak rubber, plastic, or gaskets.

Between geo from steering stem to spindle and ball joints to pivot points, guess you can only "fudge it" so much.

Plus by the time you pay for parts AND labor to rebuid a crank you can buy all new. I'm sure others will verify this fact.

Two thing, if you're on last bore if you spend money to do more work on porting, when that size is used up you have to re-sleeve AND have ports matched again. Also do you have a long rod stroker as I don't beleive super stocks are available for long rod. JMHO, your results may, and will, vary.

Welcome !! BUY A CLYMERS MANUAL !! As to when to clean carbs, any time it doesn't run right. Clean them one at a time as they're different. Clean fuel petcock and tank at same time. BUY A CLYMERS MANUAL !! Not only read the pinned/stickies , read and follow threads about jetting, repairs, etc. You will learn things that aren't even in the manual. which do you think is more of a hoot, Gixxer or Banshee?

What gear are you in when you go thru traps? How long are you wound out in this gear (time & distance) ? What I'm getting at is that you want to still be accelerating or just peaking when you hit the line. My son has same pipes and they don't have any over-rev. That's why dropping your gearing may help. Next time you're at track if you can, do a plug chop. Might not have time to cut plug, but with a magnifying glass and good light look at plugs, or cut them later. For dragging you might get away with leaner jets, plus it's getting warmer. You are now at the point that the addiction for speed is kicking in and you're jonesing for a "fix" Do you also trail ride? Remove fenders. Any excess weight. Consider different pipes even if you only use them at strip. Laws of physics say you are only going to go only so fast. Just be cautious with jetting. If this is bracket racing concentrate on consistency. Good Luck !!

Welcome and where you from? Just the other day a newbee mentioned the Aprilla. Seems someone makes a kit to mount it to the rs

Welcome to BHQ. Lack of maintenance, care, knowledge, proper oil/ fuel are about the only thing that will cause it to blow. Things do wear out, how you treat it determins how quickly. I'm sure others will give simular response. As far as the purchase does he have reciepts for parts/work? Set front up on crate and check all suspension, do same with rear. Get a compression gauge and check motor. That fresh with milled head should read 135 minimum. When you pull plug it shoul be tan colored. If he won't let you do comp test beware. Be sure to ask what fuel/oil he uses. Good luck and let us know. JMHO, your results may , and will, vary

Try it both ways, adjust both slides equal , or air screw. Only do one thing at a time so you don't mess yourself up. Record how much you change slide stops. If it doesn't do what you want, set back to where you started, and adust air screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn. If that doesn't work, go back to original setting then 1/8- 1/4 other way.

Amazing how needle bearings can defy gravity , get sucked up and trash the top end.

Shouldn't be revving up a cold engine . Check coolant level, does left side smell like coolant? Might have blown gaskets/ O-rings.