Larry's Shee

have you had it running since you went back to stock stroke?

Hello and welcome !! Most pipes seem to favor 27.5 pilot. Also, what posistion is your needle clip in. If you get back into carbs might want to clean good. Do them one at a time as parts are different between left and right,

Get a Clymers manual, keep eye out for parts on here. Trying to figure out who to trust is the hardest part. Ive seen used cranks go for 100, new start at about 350. Seen used jugs& pistons pretty cheap also. Just keep eye out and be ready to jump cause good shit don't last long

TORS and p-brake box function simular, simular malfunction also. After you check elec, start looking at mechanical. Personally, I wouldn't ride until I figured it out in case it is mechanical, to avoid further damage. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591 Good DYI. Work slow and carefull, carb bodies are soft and you can jack them. Be sure to only use PROPER sized tap drill size, not whatever you think is close. Use lots of cutting oil and turn tap 1/3 turn then back up to remove chips, cut little more , back tap up, repete.

1. Rob bank. 2. Buy parts and porting.

You will be able to split the cases and leave the trans sitting in there just as pretty as can be.

screw from reed cage?

Well, it's yours now. Just watch for detonation, pinging/rattleing/plugs backing out. Might consider doing a leak down test. What do the plugs look like? If you can, tell what carbs are on it and what jets are in it, someone can give you an idea if you're close at least.

Seeing he wants what you have, I would make him drive to you, unless you're close. Make sure you have a good compression gauge handy. Try to get him to show you the old pistons, if they're pitted bad it means it was detonating bad. If it has a cool head you can always get bigger domes to get down to 93 octain. I looked at both northern and central Mi CL and didn't see anything that matches your description, so I can't offer an opinion. As to the Honda, I wonder if it was ever properly jetted for running in the summer? JMHO, your results may, and will vary

check that the "lugs" on flywheel are clean/rust free. Set pick-up gap at .018, check at both lugs. Make sure flywheel is tight. Try swapping plug wires to see if it switches sides. Might want to do leak-down test.

Maybe +4 on the swinger, might also be useful for coal hills. Although molded paddles are heavier, they might be more durable if you chose to use them on shale. Check CL Toledo/ SE Mich, might find something to pick up (tires) on way to dunes

This guy throws up a couple red flags. First, 100mph banshees are few and far between. If truely is one it won't be trailable. Second, you don't do a top end just to do it. Post a linc to his CL ad, that will help a lot. Just because he's asking a certain price doesn't mean it's anywhere near worth it. JMHO, your results may , and will vary. BTW, welcome.

Damn, even Clymers said nothing about shifter weight . Good point tho

Hit up member NYUK on here. He might not have a barn full, but he might have what you want. Also watch the for sale section, might find what you need. or even post a wanted.

R-6 is used to lower and stiffen for TT and ice race

http://www.socalsuspensionsystems.com/ It's prefered to use the site sponsers when possible.

Are you sure you're not spinning the tires when you try? Is your clutch adjusted properly? Your "guy" wouldn't be the first to steer someone wrong just to get some work . How much did your carb clean cost? For the price of a Clymers repair manual there is nothing you can't do on a Banshee, except boreing BTW, Welcome to BHQ !! Nice looking ride you got

Hit up NYUK on here, he parts Banshees out.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/rvs/2471187190.html

More info or pics on what happened would help. Was it mechanical failure or melted pistons? If you haven't torn it apart yet do a leakdown test first, it may point to cause. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 check this thread out to find a simular set-up to get you close. Do you have stock carbs? What style FMFs? What style of porting? Just adding new bore shouldn't need jetting change, but that doesn't mean it was correct to start with . List what your jetting was. BTW, Welcome to BHQ !!

Don't run it at all until you rejet. Way off rrl. My son's had 250 with just K&N and stock pipes . Just adding FMF Gold series pipes and +4 timing I bumped up to 310, 27.5, 1 1/2 turn, middle clip. I know it's rich and I know I won't burn it down. Probably drop down to 300 if it ever gets warmer here in Mich.

Get a note book and keep notes. Set-up, track coditions, weather, and anything else important.