Larry's Shee

What is your elevation?

As for drugs, I survived the 70's, tho I might have fucked your Granny

Welcome to BHQ. 1. Get a Clymers repair manual . Clean carbs one at a time as they're different, Be sure to install choke crossover tube. New plugs, service everything. Inspect carb boots for cracks. Disconnect TORS box

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/rvs/2357989465.html not mine

Try DA ENGLISH MOTHER FUCKING LANGUAGE so we know what you are trying to achieve. Not many home boyz or hood rats here so translating exactly what you desire is difficult because we are not well versed in your dialect. I've had less problems understanding someone from halfway around the world. JMHO, your results may and will vary. Might he be talking about the TORS or parking brake rev limiter? I can only guess?

I would use a good adheasive like three bond on the vac cap tho. Thought about the same thing on Larry's blasturd, but only had a good right carb, didn't want to suck or blow on a tube while trying to start it

A "coupler" is what I would use on two weed whackers in a RC car, not two CR500s That isn't like a Matoon 3 or 4 cyl. !!

Ya if you used side with choke knob. If you used right hand carb might be rough starting

do you still have tors?

You already have the "correct" tool to do the job, why chance it? A caveman like me just uses a penny or rag between the gears to do same thing. Loosen sprocket nut before you even take chain off.

Damn I just seen a Detroit CL add that was same basic description, was asking way to much. If yours is only worth 6-800 than it might be good deal.

If you have a boo-boo that creates a high spot take a small fine file and knock it down.

Other than ALL info, try turning air screw 1/4 turn from where it is now. Little tip for everyone, when you have your carbs apart , right down both jet sizes, needle #, clip pos, # turns on air screw.

I do believe those are designed for one time installation. I would try a Yammy dealer or site sponser, or good auto parts might be able to hook you up. Worst case if you re-use put some Yamma bond or 3-bond on before install.

Gun drilled alum axle $$$

Double check all conections in ignition circut. Spark and good spark are two different things, is it blue or yellow spark. CDI is usually a go/no go part. JMHO, but considering many have problems with new ricky stators don't know why you would by used . Might want to try good stock stator. If you fubarred stator taking flywheel off you obviously didn't use the correct puller, are you SURE you didn't fuck your flywheel?

If your plugs are black just try a new set.

Like I posted you need the tube. There is a possibility that the float closes when bowl is full , opens enough to fill bowl when not running, but doesn't open fully to meet demands. Also check that the vents on carb are clear, either blow air thru it or suck on hose to be sure it's open.

http://www.blasterforum.com/suspension-14/guide-fitting-yfz-450-complete-front-suspension-blaster-36120/ Only way I can think of explaining how to keep the relationship of the arms . IMO, keeping the X Y Z dimentions correct is the proper way to make this work. I have read every thread dealing with J-arms , and almost all for YFZ arms/shocks and there are a good percentage that end up ditching the YFZ parts. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

My thought is P O had a bad reed and replaced it with one he had laying in the tool box

Is flywheel key installed, or not damaged? Did you rest pick-up gap?

O, just parts I C !!

A pic would be nice . It must be free as I don't see a price

check pick up coil, might have bumped it with strap wrench when trying to loosten nut.

This very thing just happened to me. A mouse built a nest with fiberglass insulation/packing in the pipe!! If you carb swap don't foget to get a long choke crossover tube !!