Overboost

well, judging by this single reply, I wont loose any power from installing some clamp ons, just take them off and clean the good and run them only when required.

I been reading in the search, didnt find exactly the answer to my question... that would be.. with bolt on spark arrestors, cobra sparkys or otherwise, what is the power loss from using them, if any??. change in sound? I just put on some cobras and dont know what to expect for a loss of power. the guy at the parts store said I should not notice any loss of power with my pro circuit 304 race silencers, they should perform the same, just pass the SA requirements. what are your thoughts on this? I never had SA's and just put them on to get into the sanctioned areas for riding that are closer to me. I can take them off if need be but will leave them on if they dont interfere with anything any input is appreciated.

that thing just looks sick.... hope it runs as good as it looks.

PM sent

I bought another one for $55 shipped....so it all worked out.

post pix when yer done, i want to do this to mine and it is a J arm, just dont know how it will come out

I will do $100 shipped on the J arm setup

or just get a DS 650 and be done with it they are wide, tall and heavy, but they sure can be fast if set up right. and they ride like a cadillac on the dunes, guess thats why they are called a DUNE sport eh? great for jumps and hills, not much for MX

if you do lots of big jumps, and do perfect landings on the rear wheels, you will blow out the stock rear shock and have a fun, bouncy ride back to camp. ask me how I know this http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117607

we will be going to st helen hills/trails also for the 4th. if anyone cant make it to the silver lake and wants to meet up in st helen, let me know PM, they have a small hill and lots of fun trails. sorry to hijack the post....just throwing out some more options for everyone.

hey, I am looking for a rear shock, if you have a stocker for sale I will give you $950 for it

thats a nice one, wonder if it is in my price range?

yea, but is this for the entire shock unit or internal parts only? is the stock one rebuildable? if so, then this may be a good option

well, with a 22 year old rear shock, set on the stiffest setting, jumping and racing in the sand dunes has yielded the familiar bounce that we all know and love when the oil in the shock gets left in a small puddle in the sand. then the ride back in the trail, with all the whoop ties, made for an interesting ride back to camp to say the least. my question is, is there a nice upgrade for the rear shock without going elka or something pricey? or should I just stick with a stocker and put some rezzies in the front? the travel on the suspension is kinda crap compaired to my buds DS 650 (who got beat up repeatedly in the dunes and on the straights, from a dig and on the roll) I may just go with a stocker but if there is an upgrade that will cost about the same to put in, since I have to change it anyways, might as take the opportunity to go better.. any suggestions?

I used it in my grand national with excellent results. I was able to go from 15 LB boost to 19LB with no knock and had no issues. in a 2 stroke, I dont know, but in a car with a turbo and a race motor, I would use nothing else.

yea, simple fix.. 2 words fo you...SET SCREW drill a hole in the shitty tors top, put in a small machine allen head screw till it butts on the carb. I had that problem, and that fixed it no problems, never popped off again, until I scrapped the tors, then it all went in the trash. edit, side of the carb cap and butt into the carb, then put some torque on it so it dont slip

may sound trivial and basic, but did you unplug the stator to do the plate? if so, did you plug it back in? seen stranger things, like "wheres my glasses?" "on top of your head"

I completely agree with snopczynski, I run 50/50 race fuel and my plugs are white as shit, look like my motor should have blow up hours ago, but I run it, balls to the wall, all day, feels great, pulls hard and pistons look good, and plugs are white as a ghost. go by feel of the bike, I found the chop to be useless to me. my jetting was rich and plug chop said MOTOR=BOOM. not the case. if the bike pulls hard, feels good, no loss of power or hesitation, your on, plug chop was the way of the 80's to check. with the advent of better fuels, plugs, oil and parts, you need to get as close as you can with what you have added by manufacturer recommendations and tune by feel after that. hope you speak 2 stroke dialog so you understand what your motor is trying to tell you.

I dont have any port work yet, that is a project for this winter. only mods are in my sig. my bike feels great, no hesitation, no bogs and feels great compared to when I first got it bone stock. friends bikes that were stomping my ass are now counting tail lights from 3-5 lengths back. in the trails, dunes, hills, anywhere...

whats wrong with black and red? [/img]

holy balls, 20:1 is like pure oil, how does it run.....racing at that ya got it backwards dude. I run 40:1 and love it, I run ams oil dominator and 32:1 if I run yamalube or outboard oil.

I have the pro circuits and 304 silencers, I run the mods listed in my sig and a 320main, I go by feel and sound, not so much plug. I have had my head off with the plugs looking white when I check them, and the pistons look good. no lean spots, nice oily walls. my bike pulls hard all through the range and does not hesitate except on the initial slam of the throttle from a slow roll or idle, but that a 2 stroke. otherwise, my bike runs really good and my plugs look lean as shit. slight ghost ring when cut and no color whatsoever, I run 115 race fuel turbo blue and ams oil dominator.

start by getting rid of that stock head, that is half your problem right there. then I would try some different clamps, them things are pretty wide, nice but made for stock carbs. get some nice billet round ones.

x2 I just put a rag in between the gears and impact, then reverse it to go back on but I tighten nut by hand, it has a lock washer on it, so yer good. go billet, I had the same play, changed to billet from F.A.S.T. with cushions, no play, no problems

make sure the choke tube is between the 2 carbs. wont start worth a shit without it, if it starts at all....