TwistedSheeRida

Could possibly be your stator. If you have a buddy with a banshee swap out your stator with his. Guy i know was having the same problem with his drag bike last year, would run fine but when you got on it somewhere around 9-10,000 rpm there was a sputter. Swapped out his stator and threw mine in and it ran mint.

I run amsoil interceptor 40:1 but im prob gonna switch over to 50:1 this year. Not necessary to run dominator unless you have a real high hp engine

15 41 is where its at

Yeah still a good idea to get rid of those junks on top of the carbs. It wont give you any electrical problems with the wires clipped. The idle screws on the tors unit still control the idle you can see the slides move when you turn it when you look through the airbox. should be the same height on both sides.

It should say on the jets what size they are. With the lid removed and a k&n you should be somwhere around a 270 main, 27.5 pilot, needle clip in the middle. I believe its the Black and White wire that come out of the tors that you can clip and that will eliminate the tors system until its removed you can find that in another thread. And yes the hotter it is the smaller the main jet size.

Wiseco wouldnt run any thing different

LOL those videos were hilarious, TUFF stuff.... Id have to say that 80% of the sand/gravel pits i ride in have a pond in them with a huge hill behind it with a 4 ft lip at the top. I see crap like that everyday. I skip water pretty much everytime i go riding and 60% of the time its accidental because im going to fast and cant see the enormous puddle coming.

It looks to me like you just need to spend some time searching around on here to find out what stuff is worth getting. Cool heads are worth the money but not where id start throwing money around. It allows you to bump up the compression and make it snappier, run race fuel if wanted. T5s probably make pretty good power down low with a decent port but without the port they have no balls down low. My FmF sst pull hard right from the bottom throughout the top, there a real good trail pipe. You can choose a reputable builder to do your porting thats all on you. You dont need an aftermarket radiator i wouldnt even be thinking about them if i were you. Theres quite a few threads on here about carb syncing, unless you have the banshee its gonna be difficult to explain.

Idk bout the +6 swinger but since theres a chain length thread open. How many links for a -1 swinger with 15/41 gearing also?

Get the clymers manual and label everything in ziplock bags going by what they call it in the clymers manual. That way it matches right up with the assembly in the manual.

Welcome to the HQ!! Just do it right the first time man. Measure your cylinder bores then determine whether or not it needs to be bored. You shouldnt buy anything but new pistons, and i only throw wisecos in mine. That is a good deal at amazon btw. Its 90 bucks to bore the cylinders thats pretty cheap and you wont have to tear it down again untill next season or whenever you decide to. I can see it now, you'll put in new pistons and rings and you'll lose the top end after a couple rides cuz one of your cylinders is out of round. Not saying it will happen but its happend to me before.

trails without a doubt. No one even mentioned the animals you gotta watch for too. Many of times ive ridden up on some deer,porcupines, turkeys, moose. I ride in sandpits too, all kinds of drop offs you gotta look for since they still get worked in. "have you trail guys ever ridden WOT while being blinded by the terrain you're riding on?" quote donkeypuncher. Yeah man all the time, except you only got to be doing 40mph for the trees 8 in from your face to become blurry.

I would change out your gearing to a 15 tooth too. x2 on keep it on the pavement.

I run Amsoil 10w 30 and i change it every 25-30 hours and it looks good almost as good when i take it out as it does when it goes in. No tranny probs or clutch probs, best oil ive ran in it so far.

A single 35 setup to a dual 35 set up are two different sides of the map. I would never run a 2 into 1 setup personally, there junk. With your motor dual 35s would be way overkill. Dual 30s would be better. The low end power gains from a single carb is minimal, and the top end power loss is huge. You only have to tune your carbs once unless you make changes, so i dont see why tuning is even an issue. You need to decide what kind of riding your gonna do, and what your planning on doing in the future as far as mods go before you go out and buy carbs.

CPI inframes you'll have plenty of clearence with those carbs.

Alot of people on here run that ATF stuff so i guess you could.

Man that thing is nasty. Id get one and put it on my garage wall for display.

I run NGK Br9EYA runs good with them. I just get the cheap coolant at wal mart and run it. They make an aluminum piece you can put in your main coolant hose that goes to the motor, that will help with heat dispertion. I run one i thinks its made by pro design but modquad makes one too.

That isn't small man thats perfect, 285 ft above sea level, fmf ssts, vf2 with reed spacers, open airbox pro flow adapter with k&n, .040 thats what i ran. 260 mains

That isn't small man thats perfect, 285 ft above sea level, fmf ssts, vf2 with reed spacers, open airbox pro flow adapter with k&n, .040 thats what i ran.

27.5 pilot, 260-270 mains, needle middle clip

18cc domes are pretty small. i dont think i would run 100ll with them, prob 108 and up. you'll put out more than 170psi with those for sure

Im digging this one. The donuts in the background are awesome. The Banshee headquarters reminds me of Cabelas writing too. If anything keep the middle with the vid and change out the side pics to 2 different action shots, A wheeile on one side and a stoppie on the other would be so badass.

Wow that flaked like crazy. Ive never seen this on a pair of DMCs before, i had an Alien on my Blaster i bought new ran it for 3 years and it still looked good. My bet is on thats just a bad one in the bunch.