Justintoxicated

Yea I'm thinking to put up a product review with some pictures once I get some time. only about 2/3rd of the bolts fit many are too long, and some are not threaded where they need to be (don't thread in all the way). The shock linkage pivot bolt is the wrong size. TH ebolt provided is the size of the threaded part on the factory bolt. But anyone who has taken the shock linkage off knows that the rest of the bol tis much thicker! And I was sent the same bag of bolts twice since it was thought to be a mistake, the second bag had the same skinny bolt..

I wanted to go with alloyboltz but they are no longer around the only person I kno sellign them is the ebay guy. I think someone could get killed using some of his boltz, he did try to re-send me more bolts to replace the ones that did not fit (I took pics and sent them to him) Bolts like the rear swingarm pivot bolt are fat and then have a thin section where the nut threads on. What he provided was a nice thin bolt that leaves all kinds of play so you can land a jump and break you neck. Almost none of the bolts are not threaded where they should be, and visa versa. None of the brake caliper bolts or motor mount botls fit either. The brake caliper bolts I was sent stick out way past the disk. I guess if you run your rear brakes without the disk they would fit! I got screwed and the kit was more expensive tan alloy bolts, I guess no1 makes a good kit anymroe and I'd probably be turned off from buying another as well. I already had all the clutch cover and stator cover bolts so Basicaly I used less than 1/2 of the kit. not worth it for $100 IMO.

the bolt pattern for tightening the head on is also numbered on the stock head

I'm cleaning up my wiring as well but the harness has been off the bike for about 3 months now and I forgot where everythign goes thanks for the pic! Now the Grey and black plugs are the TORS junk, but what about the white plugs? The one on the right plugs into the TORS box right? And the one on the top? I'm not so sure that is TORS related.

Sorry Man my bike is still not together yet.

I like white plastics but I ride in sand, even after several years not much on them stands out more than other colors I have sceen. One advantage of white is that they don't show stressmarks if you crash, and stay cool even in the sun. I just replaced my stock whites with fullbore whites, but what other color looks so good with red? I really like the silver fullbores as well, that was my frist pick but since everyone has those, I thought I would do something different. You can keep white plastics looking new for a long time with a little simple green.

I have sceen it done before when I first joined HQ. It was on their old old old website, not before this one was upgraded, or when we all created our new nicks and acounts, and not the old BHQ before all of our accoutns were reset, but the HQ before that one. Or maybe it was old old BHQ? Guys bike was all chrome except the plastics, frame included wife got it for him for x-mas! Personaly I would much rather send my frame to be powder chromed, that shit is trick and would be cheaper and IMO make more sense for a bike frame...Dunedeamons powder chrome looks bad ass, and I believe it comes in different colors as well. It's hard to tell the difference between his powder chrome and the real thing just by looking at it. *imagines a Red Powder Chromed Frame"

Good or bad I do it all the time in the dunes. Sometimes the sand gets soft too fast and if I don't power shift it I'm going to stall and possibly roll. I tend to powershift into higher gears more often but have also done it the other way around when I have to go down a couple gears really fast because the bike is bogging. If it goes smooth I don't think it could be too hard on the bike at all, or maybe I'm just dumb. Sometimes I am not in a good position to pull in the clutch but the bike needs to be shifted in a hurry...Thats when the power shift happens.... Of course every now and then when I do it I shift into Neutral :baseball_bat:

Duncan Racing also has a relocator but its more $ I think. Trailtech also makes Billet bar clamps with a place for the key.

Ahh Theres teh Diagram I was looking for. I'm re-doing mine as well but going to re-use as much as possible. Really just want to eliminate the TORS. The Diagram does not really show where it is conected though but hopefully I willf ind it when I unwrap everything.

Stock spec means they are cast not forged which means they are weaker than the weisco's. The only reason Weisco would be worse is if you refuse to warm up your bike before riding it, since forged pistons don't expand at the same rate as your cylinders like the cast pistons do. I would find another Mechanic that knows WTF they are talking about. Pro-X are much more prone to failure than weisco just do a search. Sure if youw ant something stock-like then they will be ine but if you want something STRONGER than stock stick with weisco and warm up the bike before you ride it, hell you should be doing this anyways. Your compression should increase as you wear in the topend and your rings seat correctly.

New Elka Rear Setup may be just what I need to replace my TCS. Elka Makes the best Shock Bodies and offer the most adjustability.

Let me guess, This year is the LAST Ozzfest there will ever be for the 10th time, again...

I'm interested in a link to a good pressure suit.

Wow that looks good. Did you have to send your plastic or did you just apply it? How much work is it? is it something you can rub on after you wash the ATV?

Why Limit yourself to San Diego or So Cal Area? Just because someone is far away does not mean you have to take your banshee there, just send them your motor in the mail.

get some domes and lower your compression...Or find some Higher Octain fuel! C-12 is only rate @ 108

Interesting when I was buying my Piggy Back Elites they told me the difference in fluid capacity is less than 1/2 oz and insignificant, the extra fluid in the line basicaly and there is no line for the piggy back. The Elka's have huge piggy back rezzies up front compared to other brands. I Know the shafter diameter is very important on tuck shocks but would imagine it is less significant on complex ATV shocks. It would provide quite a bit more displacement which could significantly help (especialy with simple truck shocks).

Since your ported I would go with V2/V3 Reeds and Carbs and manifold

I got mine from ebay, man of the botls are no where close to fitting. I have been working with the seller, and he says he has shipped me bolts multiple times but I have not recieved tehm. I also took pictures of the Bolts that do not fit next to the stock boltz. If he makes things right I'd say you could get a kit from him, but untill then I can't recomend it. You also have to use Anti-Seize on Stainless bolts to stop them from galling up with stainless nuts. Otherwise you might twist off the heads when it's time to take them apart. Alloyboltz does not seem to be selling anymore banshee kits. I could not find any other options than the ebay kit. It is like $100 and I only used 1/2 the bolts and many do not fit or I'm skeptical to run them. For instance is a stainless bolt that is threaded where the stock ones are smooth really stronger? (Example, rear shock linkage)... I can post pics of the bolts that don't fit if your interested but send me a PM because I am very buisy.

Thanks for the heads up, but I already love my yamaha factory clutch lever. WAY better than stock! I can't believe how much better a new lever works. Yours looks like i sticks out really far the way you have i adjusted? Are there brake levers also alot better than stock? My Stock one has a bit of play in it and I'm thinking about replacing it with something new.

I just got some used but have not run them yet. Even the lonestars are supposed to be better than stock. I bent my stock one, but I did not strip it out. At least I think it is bent, but I'm not positive. It def looks like it flexed though cause paint came off it. In all honesty I think the Durablue is better than the lonestar, but does not look as cool.

Sure I was talking to Gary @ Quicksand about riding and it came up that his friend has been having alot of problems with the reeds on his 10 mil, He said it really rips but they wear out fast. After speaking to some others a 7 mil with large pistons is pushing the limits on the stock size reeds already. I believe there may be some info on planet sand as well, but I have not read up much on it since I'm just going to get a 4 mil anyways. Loco what reeds are you using?

I play BF2, xfire Nick is Justintoxicated. Havent had much time lately but I just bought all the expansions and I'm dying to try them out.

You can just unplug it and keep the stock carb tops, free fix, but they are annoying... Good time to buy a yamaha factory clutch and ditcht he stock POS and get a parkign brake blockoff as well. I'd do the later before I invested in new carb tops if cost is an issue.