Justintoxicated

Straight up. I'd say if you end up keeping the banshee trick it out even more and find a new chick to ride ya and/or the banshee.

Shit man I didn't know it was your birthday! Where was the party! Happy birthday!

Alright I got it, Thanks everyone!

Thats sounds like quite alot of timing advance!

What about having a lockup makes the ball and rod weld faster than a normal setup (more pressure on the plate while you pull in the cluch?)? I mean your not supposed to hold the cluch in anyways? Or is this something that would happen when trying to rev up for a launch?

black is gound on mine, and lows / highs is easy enough to determin. I believe the above is correct, green low yellow high.

I was at the SSSS today and was offered a good deal on a lockup clutch $300 frosties. It includes a polished billet case extention, polished side case, and a smaller transparent window on the side than most others that I see and the Direct Drie lockup itself. The billet case extention has a notch in it to clear the footpegs. It is also beveled (angled inwards towards the clear piece which may add clearance for the brake lever). I hope it will clear some IMS footpegs I may pickup there as well. I'm not sure if I should go lockup or not as I mostly Dune ride and I have heard that some clutch slippage can be a good thing for this type of riding. Any Ideas? I'm also confused as to wether the clutch will be easier to pull or harder if i go back to stock springs and use the lockup. Some people seem to say it is harder to pull the clutch in when it is engauged with a lockup? Also I heard that I need a bearing kit? Is this really necessary? Why? Finaly I do plan on getting a 4 mil cub in the future, but probably not for another year, the 12-port with new pipes should tide me over untill then. In the meantime I still have the stock factory clutch, plates, everything except for HD springs.... Just wondering if I would be better off with a 10 plate setup for about $250 more. or if I should go ahead and get the lockup tomarrow.

I have 4 of them on my ATV, no shit, bright as hell. You will NEED a battery. I run trailtechs big battery, it does ok, but if I'm idle long enough one light will shut off. And I'm running a High output Stator and Flywheel with extra strong magnets. I'm probably going to spring for a higher capacity battery soon. If you want to go cheap I would suggest a 7.2 amp hour from radioshack.... Don't forget discharging a lead acid battery can distroy it it only takes once. Although I have done it a few times to mine now and it is still working. I also have a spare just in case. If your going to run 2 lights I would STILL recomend the 7.2 but you can get by with a smaller one for sure since you have a high output stator. Getting the flywheel will help at idle. hope this helps, very buisy got to go!

Make sure you still have the rubber plug for the stator cover (goes inbetween stator and sprocket and that there are no cracks in the rubber gasket as well. Then the only real problem for water would be the Sleeve for the wiring harness.

Wrong, 927 is not synthetic is is BEAN oil, and it does not add HP it's just oil after all. I don't care what their site says, Bean oil is not a true synthetic. In fact, many synthetics specificaly say not to mix with castor oil..

927 leaves some buildup in my pipes etc, but damn it smells good. Switched to MC1/HR1 but currently using Amsoil Dominator. I like the synthetics better, they mix easier, protect well, and don't seperate like 927. But 927 is the way to go if your running Alchy

Mine seized up with the stock bolts, I wanted to replace them with stainless but no1 makes them. So don't worry you won't be able to find a decent replacement...

You could just buy a billet manifold that gets rid of the crossover tube opening altogether. Just make sure your carbs are synced and you really don't need it.

Is there enought space to put the fans behind the radiator pulling air through it rather than pushing it from the front?

The blue wire from the trailtech rectifier can be left not hooked up (not sure if ricky stator rectifier is the same), or you can hook it up to the battery to prevent over charge... But if your using a large battery like you have it probably isn't necessary. Nice battery BTW I want one A high output flywheel will help provide more juice at idle as well. But jeez that battery should be able to provide plenty of juice expecialy with the bike idleing.

^^^^^^^^^^ Must be that huge, tripple, high compression,gravity expansion chamber and bored out carb ^^^^^^^^^ Just don't get a full drag port and I think you will be happy. Ask your builder about which carbs and reeds as well. Adding carbs and reeds made a huge difference on my banshee after it was ported. only thing is generaly cylinders are bored after the porting, so you won't have much room for error since your already .65 over!

I really did not want to post this pic because it does not do the bike justice. It was taken at night in a dim light garage with a flash... it looks WAY better in the sunlight but as you can tell the pipes chrome does indeed look good. Shee needs a bath, a little polish for the wheels and her new plastics....

I believe the left filter will already be touching the pipe (once I get it on), where do you get header wrap? Was it cheaper?

I ground down the stock pipe tabs and touched up the paint with a little metalcast. I drilled my stock hangers and they broke a few times untill I installed a graded bolt. Oh yea, still no response from CPI..

Well I will have to post pics of my pipes the chrome looks very good! I snapped a few pics next to teh junk collection in my parents garage so I was not going to post them lol. Definately way better than FMF's or shearers chrome.. I rode shearers and they had no bottom end at all but that can vary somewhat depending on the motor your running. His Shearers looked a bit better than my fattys nickle platng though. They also rub on his head but not as bad as my CPI's. On my buddies 7 mil cub I didn't miss much bottom end compared to my 12-port with fattys, There was some less but his bike reved faster and the power band came on smoother than the shearers I rode, but pulled really hard on top which makes them a perfect dune pipe for me, I know I will lose some low end untill swtich to a stroker myself. I think I'd still rather have these pipes than shearers even if the fit is a bit off and I had to put a small dent in them. If I was more into drag racing the shearers are an awesome pipe though. I'll ost some pics later tonight if you all can ignore the junk piles!

No offense, but if you need THAT much lowend, then you would be better off with a 4 stroke, or maybe even a 4x4. The stock pipes have restrictors in them, just changing to something like Fattys can gain you 10HP! But the stock pipes are decent low end pipes (very restrictive) so if you cruise around mostly at 1/4th throttle then I guess I would just keep those, but it would be better to get a different quad (other than the fact 2-strokes are easy to rebuild) You could do something like FMF Fattys (mid to top pipe) then Mill your head or get a cool head to raise your compression and give you back some of the lowend (I never missed any of the lowend from my stock pipes since I'm usualy riding way faster than 1/4th throttle). Or get something like a 2-1 pipe and mill your head if you need more lowend than Fattys or T5's would provide. But honestly 2-strokes are NOT made for lowend they show their real potential on top so you may be better off buying a different quad. If your noise restrictions are that harsh most 4 strokes won't pass those noise restrictions either even in stock form. So you might need a nice small 4-stroke for your needs. Seriously most new 4strokes are way louder than my banshee with Fattys or Toomys. If what your saying is true then it sounds like you want a fast production quad (since it has to be left stock) with alot of low end. A Banshee is about the complete opposite.

Looks pretty close to me. but I'm no expert. When you do the WOT test and Kill the motor with the throttle engauged all the way it should leave a black little mark on the arm of the plug (I think I see it there) As for the plug chop, I usualy look at the porclin after I have some time on the plugs, I do my WOT test after riding on the plugs a bit. I'd say that if your not fowling plugs don't go any leaner unless you want to experiemnt. If your motor revs fine but you notice a loss in power your too lean. If the motor bogs down or sputters your too rich. I don't jet compleatly to WOT test, I also jet by how the bike reacts especialy before running WOT tests. One cylinder looks like it might be running leaner than the other.

I sceen some of the new chrome plated Fattys and the chrome looked just as good as toomys, or my CPIs. But the old nickle plated kind require alot of work to keep them shiny! Man you can polish those aluminum silencers right up to a reflective finish if you want to spend the time. I haven't done mine yet but I do plan to. The chrome on mine is definately better than any shearers I have sceen, and blows my nickle plated Fattys out of the water. I did hear they had a batch that had crappy chome a while back, some stores had to send them out to be re-chromed just to sell them. But i hear you about the fit of them. Although I'm not sure if regular bores would be as bad as the big bores like I have. For dunes/drag pipes I would go with CPI's, and Shearer/Grr for more of a drag pipe with a hard hit. You typicaly want smooth power for dune riding

Well I don't have the filters on yet, I think I want to put some header wrap on them since the Big Bore Tubes will likely touch the outerwears. At least thats how they are on my friends. I was expecting these issues but I think I'll wait for him to resolve it lol, and in the mean time just use some header wrap. (Where can I order this stuff online?) Nope They are straight as an arrow and seem to be even and parallel in the rear, unlike my Fattys that I think were a little off (might have been the subframe though. The dent is only the size of a penny or nickle probably and not very deep, but it's just kind of retarded :shoothead: It will definately not be visable after the gas tank is on at all, I just don't know if it will hurt the resale value, or improve it, since it is needed for them to fit correctly! (not that I will switch anytime soon) Have you tried running the billet pipe mounts? Maybe they would even up the silencers a bit? I will get some more picks of the quad soon I'm 90% done with the transfer to the new frame. Still no response from CPI.

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