Walleye

why tear down a such nice almost perfect condition banshee that all you need is just gas and oil, and your ready to rip the trails! no thanks tho, its either sell or keep.

2,200 and its yours!

2300??? cmon help me out! i just really want a snowmobile instead of a atv beacuse ive grown up with a sled. will consider trade for arctic cat F7 firecat and some cash depending on the condition of tthe sled.

I'm suprised no one here is interested. its such a nice beautiful machine and i would love to see it to good hands.

Its on ebay right now. i also put up 2,300 buy it now, it will be gone once someone bids on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...p;rd=1&rd=1 by the way the compression is 135psi.

forgot to add the pictures it wont let me edit so i had to make another post.

2000 Yamaha Banshee bored out to 370cc less than 10 hrs maxxis razr rear tires 1/2 life left nerfs FMF Fatties FMF core silencer case saver White Bros boost can several assorted jets (mains and pilots) TORS elmination kit installed shock cover full skid protector I really want 3,000 for it, but i am going to ask for 2500 or best offer, might go low but im tight on 2500, just make some offer and i will see from there. its a excellent machine, was maintained very well, i love it, but i found something else that i have my eye on and want to get rid of it to get that cash. my loss is your gain! PM me or post here, or email me at [email protected] It is located in Rochester, New York

were tearing it all down to its very last bit today!

yes u can disconnect the tors wires from the carbs and then disconnect the tors wire from the tors control unit under on the frame just on the left side. its a little box thing on the left of where the coil is.

well now both sides warm up the same and both have same back pressure. were still stuck on whats wrong with it. we accidentally started it with no carbs on and it ran for 5 second and then died. so if it ran without carb and did not rev up widly high, then its got to be the timing is off or the crank or rods are damaged?

well, we just got his jugs bored and honed to 65.25mm and installed it, well heres the story, he bought it a month ago or less, and it was in non running condition. got it for a good price, knowing of its condition, being stolen and never run for 1 year. we found the compression out of whack so low, we rebuild the topend. but now when we get it started, keep in mind theres no main switch, no kill switch, no tors, no throttle switch on it, its all bypassed, as it fires it sometimes will idle, sometimes wont. and as we hit the gas it just bogs and sounds like a helicopter, does not rev at all, the rpms seems to like have risen maybe 500rpm thats all. the carbs spit out fresh fuel, (no air box or filter installed for testing) the right cylinder from seat postion is getting good vaccum, than the left one, but the left pipes are much warmer than the right pipes, actually the right pipes arent even warm at all. but the right muffler has better pressure than the left muffler. Plus it kinda sounds like something is gettting thrown around inside somewhere sometimes. We cant actually pinpoint what it is. We re checked all the wirings that the previous owner messed with. everything seems properly bypassed. we even tried fresh fuel, and removed the choke tube, nothing made a difference. heres another thing, the shee came with 2 heads, one stock, one is .020 shaved. both of the right domes have chips like it sucked something in or broke off the sparkplug electrode arm off and smashed it around. we are thinking possiblity bent rod on the right cylinder, or bad crank. other thing is the woodruff key on the crank for the flywheel, its loose a bit and its got some damage on it from the previous owner forcing it in or something, maybe installed it wrong. Could that be a cause? what are the options we have? or does it actually means the crank or rod is damaged?

yea i was just trying to clear some things up about difference between 4 and 2 stroke, but now i just realized after reading dlnoss's post, i just completely forgot that 4stroke motors usually have o2 sensors, knock sensor and such so that helps the motor to maintain proper tune at desired octane depending on cr. that was what i was looking for because i wasnt thinking abt that before. but now its all good. ill just ride it out now and check it after a tank. so 130 psi is reasonable for my setup?

when i stated 225psi, i was talking about my 1993 Honda Prelude H22A1 2.2L DOHC VTEC 4 cyl motor, its stock compression is 10:1 and i just checked the compression and the max i saw on one cylinder was 225psi, it was from 217 to 225 on all 4 cylinders. and i spoke to other people on a honda forum where its a well known place and most H22A owners run 190 to 230psi and those motors run on 93 octane, why cant 2 stroke run on pump gas (93 octane) above 160psi? I've built Honda auto motors before a few times and those psi are about right.

well it does not ping at all, hes a member at cr500riders.com forum and other people there that have 180 psi and dont ping and run just fine on 93 octane. if 160 or higher isnt good then why is it ok with my honda motor running 225psi on stock motor and 10:1 cr on 93 octane, that part is confusing me.

i just ran out in the garage and checked and its the same length. its stock compression, just at its last bit of bore size wiseco offered, nothing was done to increase the compression.