Justintoxicated

when I flipped the rear end of my bike over the front several times, I bent the wheel hubs and destroyed the frame but the axle is still perfect I think they are great, espcialy for the money.

The splines on my Kick starter are a bit jacked up. It still works but it moves side to side and front to back. There is some play in the splines so I'm thinking to replace it. Does anyone make an aftermarket one (not just the upper piece?) I don't want to have to deal with this again later. Thanks.

mine was less than expected as well so I changed to one size smaller CC dome, you will get more compression when your rings seat as well, after 1 season of riding my compression went up about 10 PSI.

Are those local stores or online shops? I have never heard of them.

I don't see how the outerwears would really trap dirt/sand against the seals more than running without them. it gets pretty sandy/dusty at glamis especialy when your riding behind someone else, so there is sand CONSTANTLY directed right at your shocks. I called shockwears and they said thier old dune eddition wears were neoprene, I guess I need to send these ones back to RMATV... Bummer. Anyone knwo where I can get some plain black Neoprene shockwears? There was a guy selling them at Sand Sports Super show, whole set for $30 but he did not have solid black with him, I was supposed to call him but I seem to have lost his card The dirtskins ones look good, but the white will get too dirty for me.

consider yourself lucky it took me and my friend over 8 hours to do both my Arms, both bolts were frozen inside, and even after we cut the head off one of them we could not get the bolt out. We were about 3 minutes away from cutting the stock A-arms in 2 to get them off the frame. Ended up having to drill the bolt out of the arm. (This took some time believe me bolts are not easy to drill through) Had to drill through the part where it bolts to the frame then broke the remaints off. I wish someone would make stainless bolts for the upper arms already I hope I never have to do that shit again. I think it would have been easier to buy a new frame and just put the A-arms on that, then transfer everything else over lol.

There is a guy in SD that made his own setup similar to this YEARS ago, like maybe over 10 years ago. He has his own shop called Scribs. Look him up and ask him about his old setup if you want. At least, thats what he told me.

Well alot less gets in with the shockwears than without, but material is important which is why I made my post. My new ones are denier nylon. I don't know what material the old ones were. I called outerwears but they were closed (EST ) I have read someplace about certain materials rubbing on the shock springs and removing the paint, (IMO not as bad as damaging the seals but still sucks) My last set left my shocks looking like new (you can see im images forum) and kept out alot of sand but I'm concerned with this new set, since the material is not soft and stretachable... I don't want these things to work like sandpaper on my springs, and RMATV had better return them for false advertising (incorrect picture). Unless of couse, this nylon won't give me any problems. Bansh88, less sand gets in them, but the sandpaper issue is cosmetic only with certain outserwears. With anything decent it does not act like sandpaper on the shaft or seal . If I could find the Dune Eddition shockwears, it would not be an issue at all as the inside is lined with some soft material like felt. Maybe I can just dye my old ones black if they don't make them anymore :ermm: The dune ddition shockwears were PERFECT for sand, but they supposedly were not puncture resistant or tear resistant (personaly I don't care).

Well they protect your shocks seals from sand or other crud. Hell I even put them on my RC car because they keep the shocks clean and functioning properly. Sand can build up around the seals which wears them out much faster.

For A-arms the choices are not too hard. You want Chromoly of whatever thickness you desire, either adjustable (nice but much harder to setup) or non adjustable (everything pre-set just bolt them up) . If you go adjustable some are easier to adjust than others. I heard quicksands are not easy as you have to remove the arms to adjust them where as others like alba's procomp arms do not require being removed to set them up. Gary's look pimp to me though and his welds are awesome, air-craft quality. You also need to select, BallJoint, Heim Joint, or uniball! For suspension Axis and Elkas are both good shocks, but i would guess that Axis are a little more durable and elkas have more adjustment (depending on what series you get of course) and nice shock bodies. I personaly have non adjustable Arms with castor and camber already set, so just bolt them up and go riding. They also Have Uniballs which I think are better than heims (stronger), although balljoints are still the most sealed setup. long travel may or may not be worth it, long travel can mean True long travel (more travel but increases bump steer more than +2+1 alone) or just longer shocks (mount is at another point meaning more shock travel) which has the possibility to allow the shocks to be adjusted slightly more percisely (at nearly double the cost). IMO neither are worth the extra money on the banshee for the slight gain. But if you have the cash to blow why not heh.

I ordered some shockwears out of rocky mountain catalog, they have the EXACT same picture from the dune eddition outerwears I ordered before, only they are using it for a different product :: I did not want to run my old blue ones because they would look bad with my new red frame and plastics...I went with black and when I got them they are made out of a coarser non-stretchy material. I'm afraid it is going to rub all the paint off my shock springs on my elka elites, that and I don't think they will look as good as the ones that fit nice and snug stretched around the springs. Should I return these for something else? I guess Denier Nylon or neoPrene are the only options these days... not sure what these older Dune Eddition ones were made out of but I like them ALOT more than the new style. They held up fine on my bike and I still have them but blue jsut does not cut it. Is there an easy way to Dye them black?

1990 banshees have J-arms? News to me!

From my understanding it depends no the material they are made out of. Fullbores are known to be good, thick and duraable and allow access to radiator so I just went with them, but the lakers look good to me as well, I just don't know if they are as tuff or not ? For fonts I had to re-drill the holes on my fullbores and stretach them a bit to fit, as well as remove @ cut down the stock plate that holds the steering colum in place etc, kind of a pain in the ass to be honest.

I'm not going to bother with the spark arrestors. I doubt they will be out there checking people.

Will they Dyno-Tune it?

I will be there, just look for the Banshee with 4 HID's and white fullbores.

I like them, but how is their quality compared to fullbores? Fullbores are some thick, durable, hard plastics! They really are not much cheaper either.

The hose is "supposed" to be routed on the other side of the frame (away from the pipes)

Yea, it is worth it if you don't mind a little extra weight for the battery. I'd suggest new stator and High Output flywheel if you want to run 4 though (2 is really enough). I didn't float the ground on my stator since I had to get a new one at that point in time anyways (I had Ricky Stator do it for me) It's easy on aftermarket stator, a little more difficult on the stock one.

There is another post about them just a few posts down http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68175

I ran out of webspace, so I deleted them I do have them on my computer someplace, while I work on setting up my own web server (waiting for some old computer parts). I actualy have a server running on my wireless at home I can see if I can post them up later, but it is likely the server may go up and down (since it's also my home computer lol) I mounted the battery under the seat (protected and in the middle of the bike) but many people put them in the front. I'm using the 4 amp battery from trailtech but there are definately better batteries if you don't mind paying many times Trail Techs price. (I like the new mini Odyssey myself but it's like $150 lol )

WHAT? The ProFlow Adapter should be basicaly the same size as the stocker's plastic plate. I don't get it. The stock one has a white plastic plate that you can cut the supports off it untill it is basicaly the same thing as a proflow adapter,then silicone it in place. I drilled some holes and used zip ties for mine as well. I never bought the proflow adapter... but I have sceen them many times and they are identical to the stock plastic mount as far as filter size goes. A picture would help.

I would not ride it, I would pull the cylinders and look, it might cost some money for new gaskets but should not take 15 hours. Hell you might be able to tell just from removing the head. There is too much of a difference in compression between the two sides to have it safe to ride (don't want to damage teh crank either). your compression will increase after some hours on the bike and the difference between them will likely increase as well if something is wrong. First thigns first, definately do another compression check. Be careful routing the fuel lines, maybe get a pingle so you don't have to worry about one side leaning out.

yea man it's fine, better even If you want one cheaper I have one I am not using, (converted to HID's)

Yes but it takes some work (floating the ground) and you will also need a Voltage rectifier to convert to DC power, as well as a battery. Well worth it IMO, even one 30 wat HID can blow away 3 Halogens even if you get the special osram bulbs. There are posts on here about floating the ground if you are interested, it does require removal of the stock stator.