Justintoxicated

What these guys said, and make sure the Neons are made for 12V AC Power. I have tried stuff made for 12VDC, (automotive strobes) but they did not last too long. Could be beause of the unclean power of the banshee, or the fact they are not made for alternating current (AC). If the Guy had a battery on his banshee then he is setup for 12V DC. You could try a 1/2 bridge voltage rectifier to get DC but you will lose some voltage as well, and will likely need at least a capacitor after the rectifier. You will likely run into more problems than it is worth, unless youc an find 12V AC Neons, DC ones may work though...at least for a while.

If you put pressure on the bolt (like prying it out) and turn the head it still won't come out?

It really could be just jetted to wrong, what size pilot are you running? Have you messed with the air screw? Check the plugs and let use know what they look like.

Last I heard they were having problems with the 10 mil cubs eating reeds. They have to be replaced often. Guy I spoke with said his friend's V-force2 reeds were trashed after everyu ride or 2. Something about the stock size reed cages can't handle the flow in a 10 mil cub. What are you guys doing to prvent reed failures? If your going to go with a 10 mil you might as well just get cheata cylinders and scrap the cub. It's not That much more and allows for the proper size reeds, and has powervalves.

Hi I work a few miles from you. Not sure about the trails, but I know there are some somewhat local areas. However I tend to save up for the trips to glamis (about 5 hour drive from you).

sounds like blown bulbs, but if you think its because it is your voltage regulator you will need a DMM to diagnose it.

depends on the oil, some oils like 927 seperate very easy especialy in cold weather. Others you may be fine after a week, but you should always shake it up to be safe of course.

I heard it can take away a little from the top, which is why a dyna ignition is better (increases timing at lower RPMS's and reduces the advance towards the top) I think? Not sure how much difference it really makes though I still run mine advanced I think the pros outweigh the cons. I do mix 50/50 with race gas though but I also have 19CC domes.

This is what mine was doing when it was time for a rebuild. It would run but not very good....

Powerjets are connected to a fuel pump right? If so my buddy has that on his Trinity banshee, and it runs on gas..

$8 each is a bit expensive, or is that $7 each + tax? You can usualy find some for $3-4 each if you shop around. Jets aren't as cheap as you would think they should be...Especialy if your talking abotu Pilot jets!

adding more oil makes your bike Leaner. Jetting is your Fuel/Air Ratio, more oil = less fuel...

Spend the extra cash and get a DID X-ring. Saving $20 bucks isn't going to cover the cost of fixing your cases if it brakes in 2.

I use MirrorBright, works better than regular mothers and is cheaper. I havent tried tat expensive mothers yet though, how much better is it? Is it worth 3x the cost?

You need to ask your builder what pipes work best with his porting, he is the only person that can really answer your question. Shearers usualy give you a bit more HP on top, and CPI a little less but the power comes on sooner so you have more lowend. Is it still a 350 or is it a stroker? If it is 4mil or more you might ask your builder about regular bore or Big Bore CPI/Shearer... For your purposes listed I personly would go with CPI's (Dune and Drag), then again I have a set on the way!

glue? man I hope that is some high temp glue... I have never heard of anything like that before. Adding glue seems like it could fuck up your squish, did you jsut have the head milled or did you have the squish adjusted as well? I would have just said fuck it and got a yamaha gasket, since you have to replace the gasket every time you remove the head anyways, why buy another generic piece of shit that leaks? Glue does not make any sense to me though, how the hell do you plan to remove the head in the future if it is glued on there? How do you know your getting the proper squish after you add glue?

It would be hard to roll back home if it was In Gear. Oil was full? How did you verify this? Do you typicaly empty out the oil on your hand or something? Do you Usualy beat the hell out of your Banshee?

I think by Pressure test he ment a leak down test. you Plug your cylinders exhaust and carbs and pump some air into them (I can't remember the recomended pressure but it's not much) You also have to seal up the carb side. Basicaly you have an attachment for an air compressor and a gauge to see the air pressure, if the pressure drops you have an airleak check gaskets/seals/o-rings etc I'm not understanding how your mechanic thinks it is a bearing on the crank without splitting the cases unless there is something your not telling us. The high rev must have either been caused by your carb slides sticking (or the cable) or else you have an airleak.

you might be in need of a new topend if it is an 2000 that has never been apart. or it might be that you have 35mm carbs on a stock motor!

batoutofshell is selling plugs cheap in the for sale section. Personaly with K&N filter and lid removed from airbox, all stock, I ran a 320 yet for several years and never fowled a plug I think a 310 would have been spot on. But I'm jetted for glamis and it is alot hotter here and don't know your elevation. FMF has a jetting chart on their website. Hate to see you blow up your banshee with too small of jets. I also lowered the clip on the needle (raised the needle) one notch from stock (I htink I moved it from 3rd to 4th clip but I don't remember)

with Drag Pipes and 35MM carbs you might as well get a cub.

you might have welded the bearing on the end of the rod. Were you holding in the clutch for a long time?

Pipes are Sold.

Not if you have a lifetime waranty on the axle. I also heard the new g-force axles are better than the older ones but I don't know what they changed so Then again my douglas black lables are fine but I think my wheel hub is a bit bent.

Seems a bit too strong to me since I bent my wheel hub instead of the axle No warrany on my hubs... If you don't bend your axle you will bend something else, like your ribs or hubs...