Justintoxicated

Trailtech headlights lights w/ double isolattion with 30watt Osram/Sylvania IR Bulbs (50 watt standard Halogen equivilant), is not a bad setup at all (probably 3-4 times better light). But if you want like 20 times the stock headlights, then Trailtech HID's are worth double and even tripple the price of the halogens.

Go in the daytime first and don't forget your whip. Or tell the wife since you don't have 4x4 she will have to ride the quad or wait at camp. No point to bring the truck at night anyways rangers will be there to kick you out before long, and unless you can ride up the hill and wait you will have to head back IN traffic (which means you will HAVE to stop and get stuck)

Are you talking about the tab that prevents the domes from spinning?

Crank is one of the hardest parts to replace because you have to split the cases to take it out. It will take some time to remove it and get it trued and welded.

I got the fullbores on... Had to cut the bottom part off the brass thing to keep the steering stem in place. Now the fullbores rub on the factory plastic mounts that are attached to the frame, and on the top of the radiator.... But we managed to stretch them and drill some new holes closer to the end of the plastic and got them on there forcefully.

I think you have something hooked up wrong if the kill switch and key are not shutting the bike off. Recheck your wiring. Not sure on the Reving could be anything from an airleak to idle adjustment. Are the slides in the carbs functioning correctly? Throttle cable sticking?

First loosen the adjustment on the cluch lever all the way or at least enough that there is a good deal of adjustment left in it. Then just get the arrow alignment close. It does not have to be perfect but you don't want you cluch lever to be extreamly loose. (adjust the nut untill there is a bit of free play in the cluch lever but it will still engauge). Lock down the nut in that position. Once it is adjusted correctly you should be able to adjust out any slack in the clutch lever with the adjuster. Again the arrow does not have to line up perfect. It's a compormise between having the lever adjusted and arrows aligned but if your locking down the nut when the lever is compleatly loose you will likely not be able to adjust all the slack out of the lever and your clutch will not engauge when you pull it in. So Most important is to have the cluch (I did mine all the way loose) set so there is plenty of adjustment to tighten out the slack when locking down the nut (clutch should have tension when pulled in but can have a little free play in it before locking down the nut). This way you can adjust out the bit of slack, Don't worry about the arrows being perfectly lined up. if they are off a bit it is ok, as long as the arm and clutch are functioning properly. Make sure you are locking the nut in place with the clutch lever adjusted all the way stiff (adjustment knob next to clutch rather than spaced out from it).

Just get a claymers manual for a 2001 and up the only thing they have added since 89, really is the brake light (in 2001). (which you don't even need the manual for) otherwise any other year is as good as the next. I would imagine all the resistnaces etc for the electrical are the same as well but I supposed they may have slight variations. But 2001 and up they are all the same thing just different colors.

Well I hear I may need to purchase a new brake lever with the lockup specialy designed for lockups...I should have gone for the 10 plate clutch The new brake lever is $120 plus shipping. Fullbores still don't fit after removing the fake brass piece the stock plastics use to mount up. What are they gloing to suggest next another new frame? The fullbores are now hitting on the frame mounts for the stock plastics. I don't really want to cut them off my brand new frame just yet, especialy considering that it appears once I remove those, the plastics will still not fit and hit on the radiator itself.... You would think for the amount of money they cost that they should mount right up like the rears did. I'd consider going back to stock plastics if I had not trashed the brass color piece with the fingers, purchased a chrome tank cover, and billet grill for them as well as the rear plastics

It's not your fault, the factory screw are VERY soft, i stripped one of them as well but was able to get it out eventualy. I would suggest you order the stainless steel clutch case bolts before you put them back in. Alba, RMATV both have them for sale they are only a few bucks to save you some headache next time around.

I don't really agree with this, Low flow or high flow there should always be coolant in the radiator and it will always be getting cooled down as long as the bike is moving. Sure in low flow the coolant leaving the radiator might be slightly cooler, but that would also mean the water around thy cylinders and entering the radiator would be slightly hotter if they are not getting high flow. A radiator is only going to cool so much, and the only way to increase it's efficiency is to get a larger radiator now slow down the flow of coolant. If you have enough flow the coolant throughout the loop will be closer to the same temperature. If the loop is lower flow you will have more spots where the temperatures will vary. You need a decent amount of flow to carry the heat away from the cylinders faster. Without good flow the heat will build up more in the hotter areas and areas in the head with less flow. It dosent matter if the water leaving the radiator is slightly cooler with a low flow setup, especialy if it isn't flowing through the loop fast enough to efficiently pull the heat away from the cylinders.

No offense, but why did you wait 6 years to find out if your bike was stolen or not... Might as well take it in and ease your mind, and if not the guy you bought it from will be in for a world of hurt and get what he deserves.

I just bought their brake lever and although I have not tested it I like it better than stock, ehh it was only $65 and looks good and brings the lever closer to my handlebars. There is also less freeplay in it. But I would imagine any lever would bend on a quad should I crash it. i was thinking to get the C5 as well jsut to go with it, but I'm more than happy with my Yamaha Factory Clutch lever, way better than the stock POS. Just wanting something that matches. Going to have to lookup the raptor now though

Well to really go over the whoops faster you need front suspension as well unless you wheelie over them But yea it pounded the whoops WAY better, it was some of the best money I spent on the banshee. But unfortunately I think my shock has developed a nitrogen leak or something which is why I am servicing it so soon by someone else. The Valving and Spring make a huge difference, I believe all the stock valving garbage is replaced. The rear banshee shock is pretty decent compared to the front suspension. I having it revalved and a new spring sets the shock up for your particular weight. Adding a spring is definately going to help with bottoming out but revalving it will make it nice and plush. Besides if you have been riding on it for more than a couple years it's time to have it serviced anyways.

it's best to have the rear shock re-sprung AND revalved for your swingarm length AND rider weight. makes one hell of a difference if you get both. I had mine done my TCS, but it's in for service at percision conceptz. Both are reputable companies. But if I was going to do it again I would probably just go with PC.

Definately 8 paddle you like to pla around but I'd solve your gearing problem switching to haulers is going to make it even harder to turn the tires.. But it also depends on swingarm size, (longer = more padles_ HP, sand density riders weight etc... *you have some pretty low gearing, so I'm not sure why your having poblems in those gears. I'd stick with skates until your ported your not going to be winning any drags anyways

screw it I'm not getting these and I'm not going to carry my registration either. I almost been busted once for riding double and the ranger still had to get in his truck so I just took off lol.... I have sceen them check stickers and VIN's on entering only once or twice as well. I guess I better go get that new vin stammped int here...

with just one HID you should be ok if you want to run 3-4 HID's I would suggest the flywheel it will also make produce full power at lower RPMs

You mean blinker fluid?

Your not understanding, one of the best benefits of switching the swingarm is to go to a round style carrier, rather than using the stock sytle carrier and having your arm extended.... With the round ones you simply lift the bike up, losen 2 bolts and use a bar tool to tighten the chain (rotate the carrier towards you or away from you). Stock you have to mess with with 4 bolts in harder locations to reach, tugging on the axle to tighten the chain, and then using the 2 markers to make sure it is aligned, then tightening the adjustment screws... PAIN IN THE ASS... It has nothing to do with the brakes other than the fact that the brakes are mounted in a different location (closer) which knocks off the need for about 2-3 inches in length) I can honestly say my +2 brake line is much too long for my +2 swingarm and I plan to use it on a future +4 if I decide to go longer with no issues (it will still probably be too long)... Here this page shows both styles with the stock one listed as stock swingarm extention. When you buy a new swingarm it is best to buy the round carrier as well but it's up to you! http://www.quicksandmotorsports.com/swingarm.htm

:shoothead: Thanks, I might have to add those to my CPIs if they are really going to enforce that stupid shit in the millde of the desert. What the hell am I going to catch on fire? Maybe If I pour gasoline on a bush and sit and rev my tank it might actualy ignite the bush eventualy? I doubt it... So much for m Big Bore CPI pipes, probably going to need to re-jet after that...

Thats the one.... Ok I heard back from fullbore, they told me to remove the brass piece (which is not really brass), and that once a year they get a call from someone like me that tells them they still don't fit and that sometimes the washer where the radiator mounts also has to be cut down... (And of course that person is me...) Anyone with follbores have a front set with gromits and plastic Sleeves in them? My rears came with gromits and sleves (which required longer bolts (I used Clutch case cover bolts I had laying around from my POS bolt kit.)

I hope that plug isn't blocking a critical oil passageway. Even the stock plug is very restrictive in this area.. A magnetic drain plug is a good investment in the future they open up the passageway into the clutch case and catch a lot of shit. They are also aluminum so the plug may strip instead of the case the next time around... Depends on how bad you stripped it out... Is it just threading in crooked or is it completely stripped?

acording to my GPS, about 4-5 MPG, but it does not measure up and down while I dune, or wheelspin

Well it does mount the radiator to the steering stem holder. So it is required to cut/bend the brass fingers off and to bend the brass mount for the stock plastics down a bit? I contacted fullbore and I am waiting to hear back. I don't think the plastics will fit even if I remove the brass fingers. It seems like they are now hitting on the the washer where the radiator bolts to the steering stem. And I have a feeling that even if I removed it they would still not drop down another inch on the fueltank so I can mount them there... I talked tot he place where I got my lockup and they said it is possible to require some grinding. I'm now wondering if IMS footpegs are even an option. It also seems to not be balanced perfectly and I don't know why.... - Talked to custom creations and kevin told me it may appear that way at low RPM because the arms are slightly disengaging at low RPMs? I'll have to take another looknext weekend. I believe mine is a mattoon cover but I have already ground down the pegs quite a bit to get them to fit and they are still rubbing on the notch....I'm thinking the notch should have been machined a bit higher up on the cover. Maybe my footpegs just have more welding material on them? Wallrat did you re-weld the crappy stock welds? heh. I need another solution for the brake lever, it cannot possibly be bent enough to get it back in the sweet spot and having it sit lower than the bottom of the peg makes it extreamly hard to operate. Anyone selling a brake lever custom make for a lockup?