AKheathen

just ask wildcard about powerjets.......brandon or shay will hook you up, or suggest what you should go for to fit your needs/wants, and not push anything else on you....or go look on their site, or sposor pge.....

no prob.......did you redo the seal, or just running it?

funny you mentioned that......i prefer nit to bolt things down anymore.....drilled holes in my bench once several years ago, and wish i diddn't........i use c-clamps and wood clamps all the time now for my vice and shit, since i would like to fasen it to different areas where i do clean work and dirty work, like grinding and cleaning separately, and don't want 50 holes for little things to dissapear into....nice lookin....can you show how it fastens to the case please?

get rid of that old ass stuff, and make sure you get the separated oil sludge out, too......also, make sure your oil supports freezing temps.....you engine depends on it.......

get rid of that old ass stuff, and make sure you get the separated oil sludge out, too......also, make sure your oil supports freezing temps.....you engine depends on it.......

well, making the switch strait to the 34's will probably be a trade-off from bottom end to top end.........i would not go any bigger, and a little smaller if you want to keep a bit of bottom end.......that being said, the duals should flow better at any size....do you already have intakes for the 34's?

what fuel are you running?

my mind's tellin me no................... but my BODY!......MY BODY.................. ...i don't see nothing wroooong.....wit a litle overpost......

well, keep in mind, i'm just gettin started......gonna do all flat black frame with white and aluminum accents....but have to get my x-arms done first...... SEXY, NO?

go 310, and drop the idle with the idle screws......what are your needles set at? check your float height....

if you pull the plate off, then you don't have to pull the hose......whatever it didn't take, it had that much distilled water left in it, so i would just drain that much and correct the mixture, if you are mixing........never run engine ice, so i don't know if you mix with water.....

what you have to do is either tip the bike on both sides with the jug plugs out, or flush the remaining coolant out of the bottom of the juggs with fresh stuff. i removed the impellar plate to drain it there, too...

daym, wish you would've said something....just baught one on ebay today..........

well, if you are gonna run 50/50 in those cond. then +4 will be fine......if the amr hasn't advanced it too much already...all i can tell ya is to check the jetting when you get where you are ridding and adjust then.....probably 310

basically, all you can do is keep the water out of the carbs.....they can be spotless, brand new, and still do it....... wheel bearing grease in the cable adjuster cup and threads, longer vent tubes, and whatever you can do to your filter/outterware.....

well, it can kick backwards sometimes.......when it gets a good pop-off and yyou have higher compression.......or fires too soon......did you have the flywheel off? i would check the flywheel and pickup gap. first, and do a comprssion check. hopefully you did one when you put it together to compare it to.....doesn't sound like the crank....it would knock or squeal....that actually sounds exactly what happens when the flywheel comes off. you can barely tell it's acting funny before it starts to bog out and die. don't try to pull-start it, either...

you can use washers to shim the pipe mounts if they are a little off.......that would be the only reason they should touch the fenders....

plugs.....? and what oil are you running?....temps?

well, the question is wheter you are going to be happy puttin your pipes filters and reeds, or are going to eventually go big on the engine mods with porting, stroke and such, and ridding needs.........what you will run into later if you get into building is that a plate can advance or retard the entire curve at once, but that means that you will either be set for mire bottom/mid or more topend. the dyna curves can advance or retard the different rpms separately. you may not need it from only having mild mods or drag application, but big trail type setups it will really be a big want later down the road.....for instance, on my setup for woods and big hill shots, i am going to be running alot of timing down low, a bit in the middle and possibly retarded up top, to broaden the range and not have to sacrifice. on your current setup, however, it will not make much difference at all, and you should be fine with, the gator box, or the box, plus some timing on a plate....

wonder if anyone knows anything more on these....Auspuff Goldspeed.....about all i can gather is that they appear to be fmf clones....sst if i remember.....but all info is like in doitch or something, and i can't read any power profile or other technical info. all i have to go by is some guy said they were great.......mabey this should be in getting and exhaust....go ahead and move it if you want..

you ever feel that buck from a 3" rock or bump?.....well, some of us need to hit more than 3" at more than 3mph......

haha, did you forget that the balls ramp tward another plate? spreading the 2 plates apart.........

also, check your swingarm pivot bearings......

................. well, do you need the atmospheric self adjusting that bad? if you are happy with just reaching down, then you can go alot cheaper with packards.......just ask wildcard about what you need....basically it's so you don't have to change main jets....and they are good for any carb.

i ran 90 oct on my 20cc's, and you can run as small as 19cc sea level stock porting...