AKheathen

well, i would immagine the stock deflectors are pretty much keeping the reeds closed, just a little movement from the little pedals, so, yah. i would not run them without the little retainer strap though, or they can break off......

haha, i figured that's what a chick would say.....how long it take you to read? since yesturday? guess i can't call you a women now........but i still will.....hahaha

you are 80 over stock, right? not 80 over the big bore sleeve? well, i'm going with theese wsm pistons http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-LONG-ROD-Forged-Piston-Kit-Teflon-Coated_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efafc27c1QQitemZ270498801601QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories they are avaliable to 66.5, then you have to go to the bb pistons starting at 68mm then to 70.5mm

yah, the boysen reeds should come with thin little metal plates to clamp them down and you ditch the stock stoppers. just remember not to overtighten the screws and distort the plates, or it will gap the reeds.....

yah, you are right, the stockkers really do perform well with that current setup......but how long you can hold off on changing them is another story, hehehehe.........it really won't be too big to still perform really well from the bottom through overrev, and complement the mx 4mill well. i would also get the coolhead and timing done now with some 20cc domes, so you will have less to spend when you go 4 mill......

just buy the right stuff that it suggests......the garbage they put in most octane boosters will likely just make it worse.....

well, it is ok to run without it, without performance loss. the point of the tube (not known as a boost bottle) is to send most of the pulse that escapes back through the reeds over to the other carb so it metrers fuel better. the boost bottle is supposed to just absorb it, but it is a big FAIL.........all you will noice is a little airscrew adjustment. just keep your carbs synced and tuned, and it will be fine and run good.

i'm going to have to go with rockets on this one............while the pro-circuit may be good for what you do, you would be verrry lucky if it would work well on the dune port, and the carbs are too big anyways.......whatever you end up with will have to be a mid-high pipe or higher. remember, yolu can always drop some gearing if you need a little more bottom end, and pick up some timing, like using a dyna with a curve that advances only the mottom and mid.

well, did you re-adjust the airscrews? there is no majic setting other than what the bike wants. also, did you mix up the premix with some of that caster stabilizer? if you are starting to separate, hen you are burning alot more oil......and it will smoke.....

well, yah, i was going to say to shake it if you have ot off. nothing should rattle.......i'm know plenty people have good used ones laying around...just ask and you will find one quick...

yes, there is a little jet in the bottom hole in the opening of the carb. that is the airjet that mixes with the fuel in the emultion tube (needle jet) if it gets plugged, it will pull 2x as much fuel out of the main. it's the right out of the 3 ho;les in the pic

well, i can tell you that you will really enjoy those carbs. i just bolted on my bored out mikuni 28's las night.....just shy of 30mm. they are for my 4mill, but i couldn't wait, and they run pretty nice i'll et you know how they run after the trip....

so high tech the carbs run backwards

well, if you are not going too far on your flow mods, and actually do a build, i hate to say that you may be a bit happier with the fmf gnarly CHAMBERS....i never liked the lowend perfomance of fmf silencer, and changed mine right away and really gained power that i can feel. it's not really choking it down changing them, but increasing the efficiency by bringing it into closer tune. i would actually suggest silencers faired to the gnarly chambers. for the reeds, i would still stick to the boysen power reeds, not the fmf carbon fibre reeds. i think you will be pretty happy with the setup

well, it really is a tossup between the new chariot, and the new mull. i would also sugest the billet gear to match. i know both designs have quite a bit of flow research into them. now, the chariot does come with some goodies, and all new shaft that's supposed to lastr longer, and i do not know how that effects final price, if that is an issue. the mull, however comes solitary, as well as the gear. this is not because they don't want to sell you the whole package, but so a guy can go high-end, best quality they want and not break the bank, or, if you break your stock impellar in the worst possible time, as things seem to go often, you don't have to sacrifice what you really want, just to get by. you will have to press it on to your stock shaft, since the stock shafts have been known to last/wear the longest. best advice i can give is to do your own research on the 2 and decide which one sparks your wants more. don't be too afraid to talk to them either....both are nice people and will tell it strait and not push theirs or bash the other.......i'm sure they are buisy normally, so they might not respond verry fast. whatever you end up with, make sure to post reviews in the threads in the prod. rev. section............one finall thing is that it is verry importand to make sure you have good, clean, properly mixed coolant, and no excessive deposits/coating in the system.....good luck

actually yah, they can just go bad....even some deto or misfire can shock the magnets loose. they are just glued to the outter cage with an inner thin sheet metal sleve to cover them, or the other way around......

all is cool.....didn't mean to blow up either.......well, i waould actually move to the boysen dual stage reed pedals with out the carbon fibre....you want the power, not pro reed pedals. they make it alot smoother from the verry bottom and not have that hard hit when the pipe comes on. later on, if you want to get more into it there is a ton more you can do to give lowend. that is the focus of my build.....also, if you don't wat to get into alot of jetting and mess wit it to keep it tuned right. look into dial-a-jet, and the newer version they have.....once you have it set, you barely ever have to touch it...mabye a couple times a year you turn the screw and not have to tear into anything at all.

actually, if it ohms out on the yellow and black wires from the stator, and your lichting circuits are good, then it sounds like you have a bad flywheel.....if you have a testlight with a regular bulb, you can hook it to the red and green wires and it will put out bright power to the testight when you kick it. what does the red/white and green/white read?

.028-.032"........and i said plug cap....the boot that plugs on.......it will run with wires either side, so you will know by swaping the wires from right and left.....the misfire will swap sides and swap plugs if it doesn't move sides....

well, i guess you will have to try them out, but should be equivelent to a 30 watt and 15-5 degree sealed beam....all i can say is try them out......no info online about the specs.......

hell yah, it will be worth it......2x as reliable, and i do belive it eliminates the need for spacers on aftermarket carbs.........mabey not really that much better on stock carbs and mild setups, but are when you build...

hahaha....how about leg warmers, headbands, and fannie packs? rrotfflmfao

do your lights come on like normal when you kick it with the switch on? no melting on the exhaust? good ground on the stator? pickup gap set good? keyswitch working?

well, check the reeds, clean the carbs and make sure that one isn't plugged......it could be a bad plug cap, so swap plug wires and see if it changes sides

your kit says to check it out first, but no more info on it............