AKheathen

not a big fan of the wing look either........i just want to make some nasty ass hillclimbs without all the buck and scatter.........

2-1 crab? how does that work? someone shell them for ya and put the meat in the same space that one takes? num num num.......

don't hesitate to get the dyna fs ftw! it has 4 curves already programed into it. 1 stock, and 3 motified curves. if you need better curves later, then you can have it programed by someone or buy the cable and program new curves in yourself.

well, if you are not running a lid, then youe snow ridding will not only be cold, but dry as well. 310 is what i was running in the snow last year with the same setup. you may need a 27.5 pilot or even 30 with that boost bottle....never know untill you adjist the airscrews for how they perform....

i would actually jump to a 310 main and see how that feels wot. 1 size rich will be fine right now, since you are gonna need it in the snow....i have seen that piec you cut off welded back on the stinger to slide over the pipe

oh.....i hope that holds........that ridge is what really holds it in place and silicone breaks down into bologna rubber with gas contact.......i would personally do it again..........maybey a small amount of mineral oil to help get it in.....

i'm sure you will want a 4mill cheetah or rz setup instead of a cub.........the hd springs should hold good.......all 6 when you get the 4mill done. the pancake is pretty easy, just pull the pressure plate off when you replace the springs and install at the same adjustment as the stock adjuster.....lockups do just that...they lock the clutch up.........and you can't use the clutch to shift at higher rpm's........search the shift shaft mod.....

ummm, that is a PTR powerhed, as in "Paul Turner Racing".......nice lookin airbox, though...

i was going to add a+ to alfie and some others, but there is like 50 to choose from.......... i would hate to be the guy wasting my bandwidth and time clicking them all.........

i'm gonna guess it still had some old premix in there? well, start by cleaning out the casrbs and drain the tank/clean if need-be. get some fresh premix in there and new plugs and see how it runs....look for airleaks, too

come to shoutbox.........

well, clean all that rust off, and then bend it back, and weld it closed. then take some 1.5" pipe and bend it into sort of a fishplate or round gusset like you see on other parts of the frame.....

well, i would reall, start looking for airleaks, but move the needles to the middle position, mabey move the clip 1 clip tward the pointy end if it is an aftermarket needle. start with the 290's and hold it wot through some gears and see how it feels...but make sure there is no airleak first...

haha, well, now..........how much up and down play did you feel?. you should clean the case surfaces with carb cleaner on a rag, and install it with spit...yes, spit.....it will dry out quickly and hold better. you can put a little oil from your trans on the sealing surface where it rides the shaft. the best thing would be to flip it over and replace the bearing and seal correctly......

well, describe your symptoms......you should start with the needles at the middle, and probably go to 310 mains if the 270's were right. describe what it does at all throttle positions. and remember to make and judge all adjustments for a completely warmmed up engine...

well, that looks promising, but i need a pic of the silencer itself......nice thing is that toomeys line up in the stock location....i used vht headder paint and great results, just use thin coats and bake them 3 times. it's kinda runny

and remember....while it separates, you will burn through most of the oil before you go through the first 1/2 of the tank....

and, i like when they clean up nice and purdy, too.......that's like wifey material, WOOT!

well, since i can't afford it right now........i belive shogs may want it........

well, you can normally get the vibration out by syncing the carbs, then adjusting one, since there is usually a slight variance between cylinders, but you can't do that.........anyway, first, drop your dome size to at least 20cc, if you are stock stroke. GET THE TANK!! there is one for sale that can be had for about 100, i think, and site sponsor.....hell of a deal, and good condition, other than the dust and cobwebs....i turn back short all the time in the trails, so i don't run out of gas......keeps me from making it up to the glacier.....for the clutch, just get the 3hd springs, you may need 4 or 6, but 3 should do. and the pancake bearing, you don't want toweld the ball, out in the trails, and i'm sure you will need to be clutching alot in the woods and shit.....you can get a bar snake, or anti-vibe stem to help with vibrations, but good grips will also dampen a bit of it, too. if you don't already have an aftermarket axle and good lights, i would look into those, as those are some of my "trail essentials"......make sure your coolant is in good contition and everything is clean, when you do the impellar, may think about doing a chemical flush before taking it apart. now, for anything else......like i tell averyone, only you are used to your bike and have something that bugs you or needs improvement, such as you noticed with the vibration in the bars.....even something that you may have wrote off as a "banshee thing" perhaps, you are tired of having to jet all the time.....there, you can pick up a powerjet with tons to choose from, as low as $40...wildcard can hook you up pretty good there, or even alfie. make sure your silencers are packed good and reeds are clean and in good condition, mabey switch to the pro-reeds with the carbon fibre pedal, for a little more crisp throttle without sacrificing the lowend. well, i'll leave you too it, and here's the link to the tank JDS has........his tank f/s _Heath H._

and i like mine dirty.....damn dirty..........women too

even high end oils will have the same problem too. especially the ever-popular 927, so, just read the back of the bottle and it will have warnings about s.g. and cold issues.....

well, unfortunately, yah, you have to get the basket out of the way to get the crank gear off. check for crank bearing play, and that the bearing cage is not coming apart while you have the seal out.

psh, no to try to talk shyt, but some of the stuff in there is the root of alot of confusion and misconceptions......... for example, the bogs and hesitations are not that definate. the symptoms grow in stages as much as 5 sizes either way, unless you are running a full stock setup. you will get a lean bog that can lead people to think rich and go the wrong direction. the occurence of a lean hesitation comes from when you are a couple sizes lean and it will still run but with just enough power to make it to the range of the pipe and then kick in. generally this is most dangerous when you are 1 size lean and it will make alot of power still, but you can hear it if you have the experience. backfiring from a lean condition happens when you run it for a while lean ad the temps get high enough to start detonating, and that is a bit of hard ridding...the biggest tell tale on lean is both the sound and lack of power in the higher gears, which usually pocks up as you let off on the throttle......now rich behaviors........generally you will not get a big rich bog unless you are pretty far off. it normally presents as simple sputtering and a dull tone. hold it in the sputtering and such, it would eventually load up.....so, where the plug chops come in- both as confirmation and a "cheat sheet" of jetting. the feel for jetting comes from experience, and you use your instincts and senses to feel it. so, when you are lost, or think you got it, but not sure, then you turn to plug chops. i agree, it does not make sence to spend a day or 2 chopping 20 plugs, but they do have a place in jetting. think i have done a total of less than 8, and i never even cut them, just used them as spares...and most of them were on a single jetting nightmare on the beach wheere it kept changing every hour......

ummm, ditch the crap oil and get something that handles the cold weather without separating....also, that doesn't break down in higher sg fuels