AKheathen

also, check where they are bypassed and make sure nothing is touching that shouldn't, and that which is connected is connected good

need to know temps and elevation, but i can tell you that you will most likely need a 27.5 pilot...

it comes with just the shifting parts you see in that pic, except better, haha. the shift shaft/arm has better movement, and the star is made,not modified with reshaped points and longer pegs. it makes it easier and more reliable

and, almost anyone can make some power oout of a port job, but a well known banshee builder with a good rep will make alot more power.......as is with any of the sponsors that do porting....

don't buy inot the packaged jet kits, except for ones that are peiced together dirt cheap on ebay. if you need a different needle, then just go buy a needle that is rated with numbers and letters so you know what it is, not just "red needle". the reed pedals will make a good improvement over stock, but a charriot or vforce cage will do even better...

definately send your juggs out to get a woods port to match the pipes. tell them what you are looking for. your porting can be made real smooth and broad, rather than the big hit when the power comess on. the boysens are also a good choice for this reason. that is one of the biggest improvements i noticed with the reeds-rideability.....get the billet adapter that bolts in your airbox and you can clamp on a k&n filter. definately get the tors removal kit, and make sure it's sealed from water.....c coolhead with 20cc domes and timing plate, or you can have your head worked. i would not buy a blaster for your wife because they tend to be quite unstable and poppy, and you hae to toss them around to ride safely, not just sit down and ride. i ride with my wife and daughter all the time on mine. .....and i do alot of TAIL ridding too, gr...

well, once you get the main in, tuning is all in the needles and airscrew....the slide is supposed to make things better, too....

do you have another pickup from the other stator?

don't forget to bend that lock tab over on the adjuster.....

well, my stock springs didn't hold up to the woods abuse and a low rpm torque pipe. i chewed through 1/2 its' life in a couple hours. by the time i got it out on the road, it was slipping really bad. i adjusted it up, but still........

stock stroke domes?

pay no mind to firehead...he can be a little tentative to new products....

well, the 2 biggest gains are pipes, and porting. the t-3's should actually pull pretty hard, and it's not like you are going from "stage 3" to stage "5" or "6".....they just have different rpm profiles. the vf3's aren't gonna be such a big kick in the pants as you may hope, but they are an improvement....

just pop the clutch cover off and check out your shift arm and such. you don't have to get into the tranny or split case. likely just a broken spring. you can go ahead and throw a lockup in there if you really need it, but if the clutch doesn't slip, i would just save it for a later build. i would throw a shift kit in there, however. should schedule the override and topend at the same time, unless there is other tranny issues......like if it ever falls out of gear or grind.... -Heath H-

did you get the forks mixed up?

well, you have the crank out/ or readong throug the ports? the newr ones with the red center seal read 158 for long rod...the 121 is standard rod....

well, i asked you already, but, HOW did you replace the seal. if it was done correctly, then i would suspect a bad crank bearing.......

i checked out your profile pic.......i would be more worried if all that mud got washed off..... you can safely mod the lid for better flow without worrying, and you will have to go up 1-2 sizes on the main, then. the rest of the mods should not effect jetting....

there are a few good pipes in the range you need, fatties being pretty close. i would jump strait to a 4mill build. it's about 1200 to get it done with all the porting, pistons, 4mill domes and crank...... likely want an aggressive trail, mx or dune port. 33's will do better than the 35's. as for the grease zirc, it is a good idea, however, you have to remove the plastic pieces from the bearings so that grease can get in there. also a good idea to do the swingarm pivot, too. rust can chew it pretty good

oil ssepaation at 20 and below is normal for alot of oils.....i'd rather NOT have to drain my tank to shake the gas up and hope that it will actually mix and reblend with the fuel, or simply swirl through it.......i just run a different oil.....

x2...there is something you did or forgot durring r&r that is the issue. check these things first

what about the airbox? and you can get the billet gear from mull on here. get 3 hd springs, too....for the clutch

yo- what video is this? never heard of it......

actually, i run them verry much like the realtor tires. if you look closely, they will either chanel the snow out as the spin, which works good for dirt and mid, or chanels it to the center lugs and floats good, much like a camoplast track used to do, all depending on which way you run them. titan and puresport realtors are pretty damn good tire for snow and summer ridding as well, they are just getting harder to find, and usually only in a 10" rim size.

oh, man, how did i miss this? 440 is not far fetched at all.... i would've done a plug chop and make sure. the fact that you are using a spacer plate on the bottom and not domes or a head spacer will put your port timings out from the pro-circuits, and it could sound lean. i would first change that this winter, and pring your peak rpm timings back down. either get a coolhead and domes, or track down a head spacer...... go from there with your jetting, and once you get the wot sounding right, do a proper plug chop and then mess with the needles to get it tuned. porting will greatly help, however.