AKheathen

yah, just move the clip 1 position at a time. you just unscrew the big ring and turn the tors sideways, no need to take the tank off. i is a good idea to at least check the sync anytime you loosen the tops. and you are correct on the clip direction

well, if you squirt gas on it and it revs up, there is an airleak. the choke should still start it with a small leak. i would replace the intake(s) and change the boost bottle back to the stock cross-over tube.

oh, what i was asking is if it came with the 2 power outputs, which would make 3 outputs plus ground....

i'm more of a real mehcanic than you will ever know, not just some glorified parts swapper like yourself. at least i know exacly how the carb works. and nothing wrong with knowing what the numbers are for. i never said that it will fail if you don't match that up. i have a small handfull of shops that call me in solely to fix the complicated shit that no one else can, and they gladly pay anything i ask, without blinking an eye. well, anyways, i've had enough of this shit for now.......merry chrictmass to you and your cronie

alaska....... can't afford another sled, nor can my back handle really throwing it around the way i ride anymore. i just go to the normal high traffic areas and get down ti the frozen shit and enjoy hooking up with all that cold, dense air adding power. plus, it gets you some time to hone your skills a bit in slower time, so you can keep inproving or not get rusty for the summer ridding...... would like to be able to afford throwing some nailies together for ice racing this winter......

to line the cylinders up right and keep them there

it may also be coolant gumming up the left rings making it feel tight, in which case, i would still at least be doing rings. what do you mean by up and down? rocking, front to back, or you can move the piston up and down in the bore? either way, you should pull the juggs and check out condition and clearances.

what you have to look for on the tester is that the thread length is the same as the spark plug itself, and that it has the shrade valve in the verry tip, or it will be inacurate. any other performance querks, like sputtering, hesitation, or popping/misfire?

sounds like someone just jetted it for a cold engine, and also mixed up the float bowls. only one of them has provisions for the choke, and the other is blocked off. one has a brass bead on the outside and the other doesn't. i don't have pics of the outside, but i do have a pic of the inside of the choke side bowl, and where the choke jet is, to look for. it will not start for shit without it. what throttle range is the sputter? wot or somewhere in the middle throttle? sounds like dropping a jet size is in order. you should familiarize yourself with the carbs and clean them anyways, since it is routine maintenance...

did you use a single or dual output stator?......the duals need to be wired differently. did you follow the directions exactly? check the proper wiring on the rectifier, if you used one? check too see that it is actually working and not running off the battery when you start it?

you mean last month, not last night? read the factory manual once in a while. what the hell do you think the numbers mean? that's what you are supposed to do, but any 2 gears will mesh. and read your own posts.......i seroiusly think you are on drugs sometimes......it now seems like you are generally confused about what the hell you are arguing about in the first place...

well, there is a pinned topic in here that shows how to read the vin to tell the year of the frame. but, all that matters is the style of the connectors in the harness. if the plug is round, then it is older electronics, and if the cdi/stator plugs are squarish, then it is 97 and newer...

listen you pretentious douchbag- i'm tired of your bullshit. you can't just pretend you are talking about something else every time you are wrong, and hope people get confused. that just fucks things up. i don't need the dave aproval for shit, and despite what you may believe in your own little world, everyone else doesn't rely on it either, so stop fucking giving it. contributions presented normally will suffice, and you won't look like an asshole all the time.......so, yah, i read the last sentence in that last post wrong- it happens. at least i admit it instead of trying to play it off. why don't you do every one a holiday favor and stop being a dickbag, or stay off for a while so we don't have to put up with it.......... ....and, i am sorry to the origional poster for all of this...

well, the 270 could be spot, i generally suggest starting a little rich. when selecting mains, first concentrate on how it performs at wot warmmed up. if you are unsure, you can do a plug chop and/or try the 280's. what kind of bog in the middle? does it pick up if you hold it there, or does it kind of sputter a little, and can you just go past it to a higher throttle and run good there? if it's 1/2 all the way to wot, then the mains still need changed. and, i would estimate that you would be either at the middle clip on the needle, or 4th clip from the blunt end on stock needles...

first, look for how he starts it. it should need the choke and a kick or 2. using starting fluid or any "special tricks" throw a red flag, but starting hard could just simply be adjustment. popping is a really bad sign. check for major cracking in the rubber carb boots that the boost bottle mounts too. check the air filter and oil conditions, which will indicate the care he takes. check all pivot points and loose hubs. run it through the gears all the way to 6th. some hesitation or sputtering is normally just need of adjustment in the carbs, not indicating bad/weal engine. and, pick his brain about banshees and this banshee. service intervals, care, and shit, just take your time and look it through. a compression check would be tits. i would also closely inspect the spark plugs. the year of the bike doesn't really matter, other than age on it......oh, and stand back a ways and look to see if the frame appears bent front, back andhow the tank and radiator plastics line up, which will show roll-over or other impact damage

your wiki animation dissapeared, man........i was just getting ready to look for the graphs, hahahaha...

how the fuck would switching bowls have anything to do with overflow? your carbs are fucked up in other ways if the overflow tube effects anything.......now, as stated, your CHOKE will not work, if you switch bowls.... ...and fuck you fouled........grow some ballz and face me next time

well, i have 5 factory carbs and every bowl has it.........what it doesn't have is the choke pickup tube. otherwise, it would fill the crankcase everytime it leaked.......so, on this site, that makes 2-3, plus the ones you guys claim...

well, most people don't run those pipes and dune porting.......depending on who's definition of a dune port, i suppose.....but that is streatching the limits of the pipe. you can run boysen power reeds for a smoother transition, and keep it at +4 boysen pro would perform better, and crisper. that one mod alone made the huge difference in how the powerband came on...

yah, there is something weird about the dual carbs on there.....one is tuned different from the other, but y into 1 intake...

could be that the adjuster came loose in the middle of the pressure plate, too......either way, it should stare you in the face if you tear into it........and that adjustment screw has a locknut on it, so look for it if it came off.....

x3, but how did it stall out? what happened? what were you doing?

and starting with +4....

or, if you would like to sell your keyswitch and not chop the wires off, you can splice black/red to black on the harness side......

yes.......they do....... only seen a few cases where they didn't have them in like02 or 03, i think, but then they started putting them back in......