AKheathen

umm, not to be the bearer of bad news, and mabey it's the pics, but it really looks like whoever "recessed" those domes fucked up and cut the inner ring off, rather than move the squish. i don't think they are even useable anymore. not the fist tome i've seen this happen.

it's a nice mod for both reliability and shifter ease of movement. they have the longer pegs to prevent the infamous problem of the claw falling off the pegs and ruining a ride. well worth the price, imo.

what kind of porting? the pistons will increase the blowdown, and raise the peak rpm power.

yah, fmf silencers are for the most part the quietest, but once you get in the pipe on any exhaust, it's gonna get loud. you should try the pink insulation, it does make a big difference in quieting most of the soound. other than that, toomey offers a hush kit for theirs. i don't know how well it work, or if you can get one for the fmf's. anything else, and you will start sacrificing alot of power.

ok, that was kinda confusing. did you say that the problem is in the left cylinder, and it moved to the right cylinder when you swapped the carbs? or visa-versa? is your choke tube installed correctly? what did you do about it when you moved the carbs?

x2. start with a fresh repack. if you are using fmf packing, try out some pink house insulation, not too tight. 2-3 wraps. if it's still not quiet enough, then try different silencers, like the q-series

haha, i know that bike... actually, that rattle/tap/knock comes from a number of things. kicker, idler gear, brake pedal, clutch gear, water pump, piston etc...

yup, there is supposed to be a nut holding that in. you should be able to just tap it through once you get the weight off of it.

sounds like you just need to buy a new star with longer pegs. the thing is, that anything you buy is going to wear out, and alot of things close together. so, the 4stroke will last a bit longer before it happens, but cost alot more, too. and, since you are already most of the way replacing the worn stuff on your bike, that day is likely soon to come for the 4stroke, so the other guy will escape the cost on both. now, just for the topend, you would be looking at things like valve job, chain/sliders setup, piston and mabey bearings. that already pushed the cost more than the topend you just did. just my $.02

it actually sounds like you may have weak spark. check that you have good, blue spark when you crank it ove, and check the pickup gap on the flywheel. also, what setting are the needles at? you need to make sure of the spark before you go further into jetting. however, when you are ready, start with the mains, which set wot warmmed up to poerating temp, then you set the needles for the mixture from 1/4-3/4 throttle. for the starting, hold your hand over the carb openings, or snorkel hole if you have the lid installed. if it starts up good, then you still have choke issues.

oh, my bad, it's 13.7, not 16.7. sorry

well, nothing really compares to the pc. you can get the woods port to match pc's and buy the pipes later, and it will still work, or you can switch the pipes if you are still on a relatively fresh bore....

x2 on checking out the gearing. make sure your basket gear is tight, and there is not too much backlash

umm......huh? they can go alot higher in jetting if you need it. think it's like 490 or 500, and any bigger carbs would call for increase in size as well

ok, do you have only 1 choke knob on one carb only, and it puls strait out of the side, not up? if so, you need that hose going across.

did you ohm out the stator yet? 16.7-21 ohms from red to green

ok, how it works is that more caster will move the contact patch of the tire further behind the ball joints/steering axis, and increase the trailing effect, making it want to steer strait natually. less, will make it steer more easily, since the contact patch is closer, and steering will rotate it more than push it side-to side. your toe adjustment will also have a similar trade off of stability vs. cornering. best thing is to play with different settings 'till you get it right

well, if they are stock carbs, the first thing i would check is the choke tube. it's a peice of vaccuume line that connects from the back of the choke knob to the other carb. that will cause a major air leak on the left carb. if that's fine. look all over for air leaks. do a leak-down test, and clean the carbs real good, including both jets and passageways.

easy there. this guy was new, and a bit tentative about doing anything, which is a good sign for his bikes' future. he has since caught the addiction and learning as much as he can. a bit of a headache, but 'eh......

actually, i took a closer look at the different profile of them in the f/s thread. they are the "torque" or "woods" out of the 2.

actually, .020, means you have 1 more bore on the cylinders than you thought

alf44 has a pair of pipes for sale that are pretty nice. and 50 off if you buy both, so you can try them and sell the ones you don't want. 300 shipped for both. go check it out in the for sale section

i'm running 28's and stock pods are too small. they like to crush when i install them.

no, don't ditch the 22's. those are just fine, and almost big enough for the ridding. besides, you are geared for them anyways. even stock gearing, i have more than enough lowend in the tight shit running 22/12/9's and not as much ground clearance as i would like. i used to runn 25's on the blaster, and that thing trailed really nice. there are a few people on here sellin pro-circuits, or you can go online. if you don't have to go new. that head will work about perfectly. alf, pm me some different profile pics of those fmf's again. i wanna see something

the problem with domes that small, is the load on the crank. i wouldn't suggest running smaller than 18's on a stock, unwelded crank, and that is still pushing it. also, the higher compression will hinder the higher rpm power. 19's, 100oct, and a decent welded crank is your best bet at or near sea level. higher elevations can run smaller domes