AKheathen

didn't get close-ups of the inside, but you just flow it all.....what matters is the end where you either slope it up steeper to help push the reeds open at lower rpms, or slope it long and gradual to flow better at higher rpm's

i just picked up a "project pack" of house insulation at the hardware store cheap....

well, if you have issues running reed spacers, don't install them on the jugside again........the .2-.4 hp in th mid is not even close to worth killin the topend off on any motor.

2 peices of advise...only do 1 carb at a time, and don't force anything, it should all go together and come apart smoothly, there are a few tubes in there that can catch on the floats and passages when you are pemoving/installing the bowls, and a tab that can be damaged if you force the slide in wrong. ps, the pilot works the idle range up to between 1/4 and 1/8 throttle, and the airscrew fine tunes it.....they work together through it's whole use range......

are you planning on modding more in the future? if so, there is a great priced kit on ebay with several sizes. even just running no lid you can find yourself even higher........i kept second guessing myself untill it came to need 340+ on stock carbs......

370-380 and adjust the airscrews a little.......betwen 20-30 degrees per size

well, aside from cleaning things up nicely, it simplifies and leaves less things to break. also alot easier to change jets or remove the carbs, and relieves some mass that tends to contribute to intake cracking...

the choke simply richens it. if you are lean at idle, or cold, then the idle will raise......if you are tuned properly, and warmed up, the choke will start loading it up at idle, and it will eventually foul the plug........i would look at the choke jet for blockage from particles that run through the washer. it's verry similar to the pilot jet, but in the bottom of the bowl.

after you check the pickup gap is set, make sure all the wiring is good, no melting on the exhaust, or bad grounds. test the coil and plug caps. did you buy a ricky stator? did you use the banshee flywheel puller to remove the flywheel?

2.5? and are most running freezing temps? not to pick at you, just seems off....... i'd suggest the 27.5's, 1 turn, and 330 or 340 to start in those conditions, with the setup you also discribed.....needle in middle, or 1 clip rich, too

31.5 degrees blowdown sounds pretty good for mx to me.......remember, that it is ported for the best midrange.....

yes the reeds flow good and give you power at all levels, same with the pro reeds and vforce. difference is that the vforce is real crisp and hard when you are ridding, but really flow at higher rpms. the pro reeds are also a bit crisp, but the power reeds are really smooth and responsive to your throttle demand, so you can get really technical in the woods and not loose out on power, and not have that lightswitch hard hit when the pipe comes on.....the rad valve is basically a redesigned cage to help the flow, but you can still chose pedals of your desire.....

well, what are you looking to do, and what is the setup? timing plate or dyna ignition? pipes, reeds, carbs, porting compressoin (domes and bore) ridding, etc.....

go with the boysen reeds.........they will perform better in the woods, and will not hold you back in the topend at all.....+4 will not really kill the topend, but you will get some nice bottom, and alot better midrange snap. the higher compression domes will get you alot more grunt for when you need it. remember, this is still a woods bike part of the time, and that is your initial requirement. but you can still get out there in the open and haul ass. i built mine so i can grunt through all the technical woods with and without my wife or daughter ridding with me, but also to haul ass on hillclimbs and 4th gear switchback drifting. i ride with 4pokes usually, and there is no way in hell they are gettin past me in the woods, or in the open.......ok, i lied......my flywheel came loose once.....

not the stock cable, but a cable for non-tors stock carbs....jeff can hook ya up.......

you use the same throttle cable as for the stock carbs without tors

does it smoke alot? have you unplugged the tors controll module under the gas tank on the left? have you checked for good blue spark?

umm, all that was covered with room for variance......

yah, you should be 300+....i would look for weak spark, fuel overflowing and air filter restriction......

well, 2 things.......the gas may be a bit old and separated, and you need to rejet for the cold if you haven't already.........+2 sizes on the mains. drain your tank, and at least make sure there is good mixed up fuel in there. 2 week old should be fine, but idk, sometimes not....most likely just separated...

yah, just the cogs sliding untill they fall in. just making sure it's not binding on the sliding shaft....

wel, if the mains check out good on the chop, then lean your needles 1 clip.

yah, i have woo-hoo with 20's near sea level and in the mountains.....

well, what will become more unreliable is your ability to avoid objects, like trees and parked cars, as well as your grip becoming unreliable and you fly off the back