AKheathen

hey i got that from either blowit, i believe........they run the setup and did all the test data with success, also ran some builds with really freakin small squish. i'm just sayin what is possible on a stock stroke/bore/porting setup......and it's not about the extra dollar for octane, that is all that is availiable.........if i wanted to push more power, i would go a little more conservative on the squish clearance and rin lower octane......i know i would be safe with 20's and +5.5 on 93, but it's easier to mix 100 and 90 50/50 and even run it a little old

don't get me wrong, it should flow alot better than stock, and oter benifits, but not like that.......you know that mull animated banner?.....well the kit floats across it every few seconds........

actually, the overflow tube stems from the backside of the drain tube......this is why the drainscrews are normally stripped, and really tight, from guys thinking the screw is leaking.........

x3...clean your carbs, do some research in the jetting section and you will see all tat effects your jetting, and what jetting effects........cleaning the carbs is an important part of routine mainenance, too.

no, the runners do not work like velocity tunnels.........you can buy velocity tunnels, though....

actually, you can run 19's and +4 on 93 @ sea level......i ran 20's on 90oct just fine......didn't bump it untill i went +5.5 timing...

your pet cock probably just lost a chunk from rot, and got stuck in your float needle/seat.

well, weaker spark on one side than the other means you should probably replace your plug caps...... i would check the flywheel in case it started coming loose. and track down that squeal to pinpoint where exactly it's coming from......use a piece of hose to your ear..

60?psh, you can do it cheaper, even factoring in the $12-$15 flywheel puller that you NEED....

just remember not to run old or less than 90 octane fuel. 91 if you are +4 on the timing...

hahahahahahahahaha......i LOVE your sig........that would be verry nice........i would have like 20 kids

too bad you guys don't have any sort of dyno sheets on this.............any noticeable difference in performance? should put some earplugs in and thry it out.........power/throttle response, etc.....

get in there and learn your carbs......1 at a time, so as to not mix parts up. likely needle, mains and airscrew adjustment, and possibly need cleaning anyways.....there is tons of help and info in the JETTING section to get you through it.

you know.....i was just thinking about this a couple days ago..........heat from both sides?

did you check swaintech?

umm.....and what do the plugs look like when you have to change them??? are you runing the right ones for the coil? have you checked the pickup gap? you should do a plug chop to see where the jetting is at...

yes, if you have a nice, low-hour stock crank with thight bearing clearances, it would be a good idea to weld it. if it is a bit worn, i would have it rebuilt first with some good quality 8ball bearings in the center and new seal and rod kits. then you can have it trued/welded durring assembly, and even cryoed if you choose, and it will be a pretty much bulletproof crank that will last several years and 2x as reliable as a brand new weisco/hr crank...

yes, i would start going through your electrical. check all ground, even where the coil mounts. remove the caps and see what the wires look like. replace the caps, as mentioned. check the harness for melting/chafing. ohm out the coil on both sides. then, remove your flywheel, correctly, and check for corrosion and all wiring connection and ground points on the stator, including where the timing plate mounts to the engine, and stator. while the fluwheel is off, give it a good firm shake and see if you can hear anything and slide a scewdriver in the inside and see how it jumps from magnet to magnet........also, have you checked the compression and reeds? exhaust obstruction such as a broken silencer core or fuel in the chamber?

no prob.....

most have already hit the nail on the t-6. it is designed to run optimim efficiency off the stock port timings and flow rates. once you really open it up with porting and such, this translates into restriction. now, most pipes are designed to overlap and extend beyond the stock timings and/or flow. this is why porting can take and overlap the rpm range of the pipes, and bring the flow up to match the pipes, as well, and make alot more power. you can, however have it ported to match the t-6's and still make some considerable gains, just not as much as the t-5's or ther pipes., so, it is up to you to decide how far you are going to go anytime soon, and which pipe will suit.....

yah, the white pipes in my sig are the mid-90's ones with the full curving to them, like the fatties. those are likely the "torque pipes" everyone refers to out of the 2 they made at that time. you can tell by the switchback center piece, and the sharp angle on the stinger outlet. you couldn't really see all this with the craigslist pics.....

pretty much any mid-top pipe will open her up, compared to a mid-low pipe

well, when you do the "chop" without actually cutting them, they will still be new, but for cleaning fouled plugs, just use propane or mapp gas torch and get them glowing. they won't come out completely white, but they will be clean as new....

did you try an advanced/refined search to only search titles? it should only be a few pages back if you just brows the jetting section

did you verify with pics? i have the "old gold series" with the don elmer sig, too, and they are a little newer than that...there was a thread on them a while back, like spring time.....