AKheathen

PETA stands for (people eating tasty animals), so put down that squrrel jerky while you race, and you'll do fine. really, if you do not wanna pop the cases open, then aall you can really do, aside from mabey a bit from different kind of oil, is to unload the trans. clutching takes forever, imo, and can slam the geartrain. you can blip the throttle, which is what i usually do, or install a stutter, which momentarily interrupts spark durring the shift, so there is no load on the gears, so they ulock and slide to the next set. there is also the shift shaft mod, which helps a tad to push the lever further. pretty much any external mod you do will only help the lever move, but not effect how the gears function

oh, it's buirried in there, lol...it's cool, basically 2-3 heat cycles with the rad cap off.....not quickie heat cycles, completely hot, then cold to touch, about 1-2 hrs. after that, 2-3 proper plug chops...

well, i personally like the idea of roundhouse, because of the bolts sticking out, which do get snagged, among other reasons. i have also cracked my stock swinger up, too, so it's about time to build a new one. i'm curious, tyler. you say they were bending, but i thought the big problem would be cracks near weld points..... same shock mount area?

this thread is pretty old, but i'll chip in anyways- tire size really makes a big difference in gearing. for a 22- 13/40 or 13/41 does pretty nice, 12t front sprockets are pretty chancy, and i've seen pics of quality ones split in peices, not to mention strain on the chain. being in the woods, you want it geared pretty low. when i dropped, i planed on going back up, by dropping the rear as much as i could, for clearance, but the lower gearing really helps out, sinc i can spend allot more time in 2nd or 3rd on the trails/hill, but damn near stand still putting around in 1st in the woods, which meant allot less stalling out climbing trees and shit. but, the best advise is what you read of your needs- "i find myself shifting too much" definately calls for 1 tooth in the front, or 2-4 in the rear, mabey more, depending on the power. not nearly enough bottom end- gear down..... one big thing about chain adjustment- check the swingarm bearings first thing, before throwing money at new sprockets and chain, only to chew them up again and mabey snap a chain, which can be allot bigger trouble than just needing a new chain.

discrbe the weird sound.......and first thing i would do is change the plugs, and save them to look at if anything looks weird reading them, and check the filter, drain the bowls, basic mantenance stuff.

lol....... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132836 this was posted, and discussed a day or less before your q.........just sayin.....

just trying to get a feel for just how much it matters to everyone what their swinger is made out of. i'd like honest, not dreamer answers. i'm sure most people would rather buy the best, and say so, but once it's time to shell out the money for one, may settle for less than they really want. i left the option for multiple, in case you would choose differntly, depending on if it was new or used. if you can add any other concerns/comments on what is important, or you look for, that would be nice, or whatever explain your choice if you want and why....

hmm, a couple q's.......first, you are talking about "kingpin angle".....that is a really vauge term, and really only aplies to kingpins and other strait axles, where they are fixed, not moving/changing with ride height. so, was that caster, or sai? don't even say camber.......another q- i'm wondering why you did not take the time to correct the angles while you were at it, either by seting it up with yfz spindles and bringing the caster back up into the 3-6degree range, or correcting the joint angles to prevent binding on those banshee spindles? also- that 11000 static load, means you can mount it at 90 degrees and hang a verticle load less than 11000lbs before it snaps, in bulk average, on new units, which means there is variance, which some may not hold that much, and that it should never be engineered into a system applying more force than 1/3 that amount. now, the question- what is the deflection rating on the eyelet, and do you know what amount of that force is applied by merely hitting bumps and other obsticles? how about the more important rating of where the weight is carried at the weakest part, trying to suck the eye strait off the ball , rather than pulling against it?......btw- if the suspension extends any much more than that, both the heim and ball joitns are gonna be tearing themselfs up

would super stock pistons fly for rules?

x185,964,256,668.651981351

whoa, look out for the grammar police

oh, yah, sounds like you probably melted her down. look for signs of airleaks, or pluged up carbs/fuel screen

oh, yah....i forgot the liquer and smokes, lol

what's the story on it? new topend rebuild? or, just sat for a along time, or quit one day? white knobs? like plasic knobs on the side if the carbs, or the big dime-sized knobs on top of the carbs, that you have to take the seat off of to get to? pics would be really helpfull, to see what kind of carbs they are. it could be a number of thengs, from airleaks, to choke circuits, to plugged jets/passages, oil separatoin, weak spark, compression, etc oh, just saw you said new topend, lol....still ?'s

i completely agree with most of that there. one thing left out, is that the break-in method and times/milage, are entirely dependant on what crosshatch is used. old school coarse cross hatches need the baby-it procedure for a bit simply because an enormous amount is being cut durring the initial break-in, and too much can build up and cause damage such as scoring and ring stick. now, newer, modern hones are much finer and uniform, which not only reduces ring cut, but holds at least 2x the oil for the life of the hone. the key here is, as mentioned, is to get the rings to cut and seat before they dull. the old addage that it should be 1hr for 80% and 100+ or never on the other 20% applies to the old crosshatch. there is absolutely no reason you cannot have a new topend broken in 100% well under the 1st hour. as ddu stated 4 strokes are sensitive to synthetic oils with friction modifiers because mass amounts of oil is run around and through the rings and skirt, doing just as you described. i'm not sure about the assembly line on the corvettes, since i know for sure, at least up untill a few years ago, that they all are line test run and delivered on shipping oil, which should be mineral oil with corrosion inhibitors, and they do drive them on it. my uncle used to also work at a chevy dealership, and they had him breaking them in by pulling them off the truck and rallying the piss out of them- no free-running. funny story- one truck had the nuts loose, and he hauled ass out to the main road and all the wheels started flopin around-....i also had someone take a ford back with a rod knock at 600miles, and it turned out that the dealership forgot to change the shipping oil. well, i digress- i came up with a top-end break-in method for the banshee(and other 2-strokes) mix exactly the same oil and ratio you are going to be using, do 2-3 heat cycles with the radiator cap off, and retorque the head.(do NOT rush the cycles- let it cool completely) then, go do 2-3 plug chops, or at least go through the runs. it should be 100% broken in by then. warm-up for the plug chops include the short, 4-8 second pulls, then decell longer, like 10-20 seconds, to keep blowing out any ring cutting, while not over-swelling the piston before the cyls expand. that pretty much covers all the bases on a new topend. some like to dyno break-in, and some just like to ride it hard. before the she, on sno-go motors, i would just go through the series of hard pulls, with cool-down decell, cruise in between, and it takes between 20-30 min, and you absolutely feel it kick in right when the rings seat up. so, basically, if you let the cyls cut the rings, or allow buldup to get in the way, yah, it's probably gonna end up with perminant blow-by and kill the life of the engine. oh, and the reason it is good to run synthetic oils earlier, than later, is because of compatibility issues where the conventional oil will remain behind in areas of varnish/buildup, and more importantly, the seals themself. they also need to break-in and interact with the oil, to keep seaping oil into the surface, and soak in to remain pliable. when the rubber in the seals stay in contact with one type of oil for a while, it begins to not only absorb it, but also release some of it's natural elements. incompatibility will create a barrier where it begins to run dry for a while, and could fail, or wear excessive, before accepting the new oil base.......

actually, running that 3x5 hole, unless in the runner, should be 1 size bigger than a lid with a few holes. but, the bills pipes don't usually like as much fuel a most, so probably 270 anyways, lol. do a plug chop if it's running good when it's hot, and you think it's right. what is the riding temps, too? that will make a difference.

i don't mean to pick on tnt, but pc's are not that much like t-5's and that is not the right way to do a plug chop. it may likely be in the 280-310 range, but can go as high as 340, also depending on riding temps. you can get the proper plug chop description pinned at the top of this section, and also pick up jets from a sponsor, not the dealer to save allot on mikuni jets. basically, you want to go up untill it runs mint on a cold motor, but sputters a little wot on a hot motor, then go down 1 size on the mains and do a plug chop. you normally should need only 1 or 2 sets of new plugs to do this. pc's are an interesting beast, but well worth the insane midrange, and wide powerband....

a die grinder helps a tad to hog the opening tward the screwholes a bit, if you are carefull, but the porting itself should be done with an assortment of half-round, flat, and bastard files, or whatever you have that works out best for you. big thing is the flat part and that there is an edge less than 90 degrees to get into the corners without gouging the adjacent work.....if you search old topics, you can find tons of pics, i even have some posted last year that shows how absolutely messy a die grinder will be, since it takes huge, jumpy bites, no mater how steady and firm your hand is. http://s475.photobucket.com/albums/rr120/djheathenak/ you can look back through my album for the pics, since i'm in a hurry.

idk, it looks like a pic of a hard copy for 2 guys, and i had to retrieve mine from my wifes' facebook....so it's not the bes quality.....

gearing is refering to the sprockets. smaller= lower in the front, although, 13tooth is about the smallest i'd recomend for reliability. more teeth=lower in the rear. stock is 14/41, and 1 tooth off in the front is about 3 teeth in the rear. the main thing about switching from stock carbs is better design. just going to 28's or 30's gets rid of the water issue with stock carbs.

it produces copression because there is this big part of the cylinder that actually does not have any holes..........

you kiddin? ever get hung up on a stump, trailer, or tailgate? better yet- have you ever caught a bolt head on a rock, and found out which gives first? in all seriousness, you can taper the holes out and buy the recessed bolts at ace, if they aren't recessed already, and pretty cheap.

they do have rolls of heater hose. most likely just the light blue, or black, mabey green, but of coarsue they will not have pre-formed hose. only thing i worry about is kinking, since it's not verry stiff at all, like rubber. have you ever heard of rubber breast implants?

yah, best to use long strips of emmery cloth. i remember that post last year about the guy getting caught cleaning or waxing his chain. my freind used por15 or caliper paint on his....can't remember what, but i think it was por15

there is not going to be balls or shavings of aluminum on the plug, persay. if it was detonating, it might show a little gray, if bad, or a ltittle may not show at a glance. you have to get a bright light and magnifying glass, mabey reading glasses and read the plug. some specs might show up. at this point, i would just go ahead and at least tear down for a hone/re-ring, which shouldn't be too much, and you can inspect the pistons, cyls, and crank. at the minimum, locking up like that could mean that it's gummed up, but could be as bad as melted piston or crank problems. you'll need a clymers, which you can get online, and e-copies, or right at your local dealer. open it up and see what's going on, then you'll know what you need to buy