AKheathen

20's will run fine on 90oct. with no timing, 21's will run fine on pump with timing......timing will make the bigger difference. oh, and those vitos superstock pistons wouldn't be ideal if you are gonna port, so i'd just run them untill they wear. that will give you some time to decide whether you want to port it, or save up to stroke/port it. once you port it for stock stroke, you usually can't get anything but drag port if you decide to stroke it, which is all topend.

yah, clean it real good before resealing. you need everything together on the topend including the intakes, but you don't need the clutch side shit, or stator/flywheel shit on, just make sure the crankcase/topend is all together

20cc domes will give you a noticable bit of torque and work good as low as 90oct. sea level, but 21cc and +4 timing will give you a bigger punch and stay on premium up to 66mm bore. timing plate is pretty cheap too.

damn, beat me to it, lol.

because 7mill was too much for him, lol

the guestimate is what year. the 95-96 cdi's are different from the 87-94, and 97+ boxes, so i'm not sure about them. i know a few on here know for certain though. i'd report to ebay the defective part.....a couple complaints and they pay out the ass for membership

toss them? i bet you can make bank just recycling them, or a few sets out of them, lol

well, i was alway told that some of them do have a 10k limiter, probably newer ones (square plug), just like they changed how the pbrake limiter works over the years. i never took mine to 10k on my stock ignition, so idk for sure if mine did it.

x3, if it pos out, but the drum still has it engauged, that means the fork isn't pusing it all the way in. usually from forcing it into gear when it doesn't want to go, or rounded dogs, which means you need a new gear as well. i have also seen the drum channel worn off at 2nd gear peak, but the 2nd gearset and fork were also damaged as a result.

i ended up having to replace the whole axle to hold a new sprocket hub good. mine went from a little worn to shot/skipping teeth in about 30-45 min ride. i wouldn't say it's necisary to replace chains and sprockets in sets unless the sprockets are really worn. there is a measureable limit, which is about 1/4 of the tooth.

2 things- the stock banshee does have a rev limiter, and that's how it will act if your p-brake wire is activated. not saying rm is good, just pointing some things out..

those red magnetic racks are by far the best, save for the magnetic shavings you would have to wipe off, and wash the sockets in water to clean. you can make them fit the average box by trimming the handles, with room for evtensions and rachets. those and the twist-locks, depending on collection size. those 2 are the most expensive, as well. i bought the smallest to hold some 3/8" impacts. that being said, to save spending as much on holders as i do on the tools themselfs, i went the following rout- i use the tapered socket trays that keep them in a row for some things, mostly special sockets and 1/4" drives, i got those peg holders, but the metric tray doesn't fit in the top of my box, so locking it away isn't really a convenient option. i use the wrench holders and socket holders they sell the small racks in. the biggest thing i've done by far- pegboard. i have all my main snap-on and craftsman sets hanging up, as well as hammers, screwdriver set, dewalt set, etc all organized and visible so i can walk right in and see where it all is, and takes seconds to put away. then i was able to organize both roll-aways and different travle boxes for the rest of the shit i don't use all the time, and extras.

um, first things first- are you retorquing the head after a few heat cycles? it will most likely blow if you don't

put the head on and measure the squish first. then you will know how much you can mill. you can often just cut .030" and call it a day. you generally want to keep close to .040"squish. it also depends on bore size as to what will keep you on 93oct zone with the timing bump. as for the plate, you will need a 3/8-10mm carbide burr bit to slot the flat surface over. you can go +5.5 by slotting it to the the side of the pickup mount on the bottom hole. you will see what i'm talking about. then use a 1/4" bit to slot the holes over to match. if you don't have the tools already to do it, and aren't going to use them other than this one thing, it's not woth it to do, but it's a fun project just to do. neasurements, are- 4mm= about 4.5-4.6 degrees timing, if i remember right. an aftermarket plate is cheaper than the tools to do it. too much timing will start to take off from the topend. most people like +4 as a good ballance for anywhere from trails to dune, but your preference needs/setup can differ. i'm not sure what drilling the holes out will do other than letting the screws go through the plate, instead of holding it

well, the reason i said to do the plug chops is to make sure your jetting is spot. if you are confident in your jetting, then it's not necisarry, just ride it hard as shit from the get-go, untill you feel the rings seat, which you should notice a little bump in power/throttle response when they do. just remember if you are lean, you can melt a piston, or lock it up, and you still have to take it easy to get it warmed up to operating temp before you rip on it hard. the reason for leaving the cap off is because the head gasket, or o-rings will loosen up as the engine is cooling off, and if the coolant is pressurized, it's most likely to form the leak then.

there are basically 2 things that snap the chain- misadjustment, and worn parts, like swinger bearings and sprockets. swinger can snap a chain just by turning right with enough weight, or going over a bump/hump. i've done it. worn sprockets can stretch the chain excessively. worn hub, can twist on the chain under load. i run 22" tires also, and run a $33 non-oring chain. i think rk? the chain has been beat to shit from failed rollers on the amp link and locked most of the links together, but still mad miles and hours of nasty ass trail/woods/river/hillshooting, and now i just bought another to replace it. just letting you know to check for wear before you put the new chain/sprocket on and possibly snap another. oh, and i also run 13t front, which puts more load on the chain. and forgot- there is a 3rd reason chains break- power, but it takes a shitload of power to start snapping chains for that reason alone

is your e-brake on? describe the choking out. does it sound more like a certain rpm, or can you hold it just below 1/4 throttle and let it rev out (it should just about rev out holding it there) if not, then that sounds like the parking brake rev limiter. if it does rev out, then it's in the carbs. describe all you did/changed in the rebuild. did you check the carb sync?

heat cycles is where you start it up and let it run with the rad. cap off, and blipping the throttle once in a while untill it reaches operating temp. then, let it cool copletely untill everything is cold to the touch. i couldn't find the link to the plug chop info, but basically what you do- get it up to operating temp. if it's running decent and revs out clean, then find a strait stretch and change plugs out with brand new ones real quick. start it up and immediately pin it and keep it pinned through all the gears. then pull the clutch and kill the motor at the same time and coast to a stop that way. pull the plugs out and put the old ones back in and ride back to read them. cut the treads off and read the porcelin. there should be a 2mm solid chocolate ring all the way around near the bottom. more than 2mm=rich less than 2mm, or light in color= lean. also look at the plug for specs of aluminum, which would be from lean/deto.

same float setup i have....

use the exact premix and ratio you are gooing to be running. do 2 or 3 full heat cycles and retorque the head (a few will be loose) then, a few plug chop runs, including getting it warmmed up first to full operating temp. then, just ride it like you stole it and it will be broke in with the best ring seat you can get, and jetted right

i take it you have a 13t front? check your swingarm pivot bushings. just grab the rear grab and shove the back of the bike side to side. i bet there" is play there. replacing them will not only take up a bunch of slack, but will keep you from snaping the chain when you adjust it up "right" oh, and dropping 1 tooth in the rear will only make a difference of like 1/2 tooth

sounds like your float assy has a problem. either the float height is not set right, or the needle/seat is leaking. they leak for 2 reasons- junk stuck in there keeping it from closing, or the tip is old and hardened/cracked, etc.

oh, for future reference, you're not allowed to think about, use or relay any info i've given you, or that you have derrived from my posts in other threads. btw, i would also like you to answer zilas' question about the car....you said you will admit when you are wrong, especially when proven wrong, so............i know you can't have him on ignore when you actually respond to the other parts of his posts........

um, prime example of you reading what you want. that's not what he said. how many times just in the past couple days has someone sated "THAT'S NOT WHAT HE SAID"???? once again, reading what you want. i looked at all that info, then looked again, then studied, ran some numbers, and looked again.......yep, 5 minuets later, it's still a dangerous ass setup. i'd put money that some tr-6's would demolish that topend, and any pipe mid-top+, as well as any pipe that would be high efficiency for stock setup. you would need a pipe that is all bottom end, and one that likes more flow than that setup can produce, to keep the return pulse weak enough. you would also need to keep the timing stock, and not allow for any wear. basically good for 1 weekend at some event, and you're done. same as- you can run 19ccdomes on 93oct.@asl, and real hard, no problems, but several hours setting it up all the time, and the slightest problem will fuck it up. reading what you want....again..... not argueing over .005" is like not arguing over 5 degrees timing. yes, there is a point where .001" means the difference between the piston hitting the dome, or not, detonation, preignition, and wear limits. it's not an "about" number, but an exact, and changes all the time, as the engine wears. i think since all that matters is what macdizzy says, all that you hear is the sweat dripping of his nuts(which probably sounds however you want it to, aswell) and no one wants to listen to what you demand here, you should just go pester him untill he realizez giving you info is a really bad idea.....seeing what you do to good info.

hahahahaha, that the best you got? what happened to the random streams of vulgarity in the shout? wtf is the discussion about now, anyways? i completely forgot now. too buisy laughing my ass off all morning. i swear- theae threads are the best b-day present yet. thanks accidental ruhtard