AKheathen

i used to buy mine from a gas station just off the oad...not near an airport at all........have you tried saying that you run an ultra-lite?....they might make you use an av-gas aproved metal can, though......

i cannot say that the needle is going to affect what main you need in there.....it would have to be a really long, fat needle to do so...maybe like a 16penny nail. i got a set of 30's once that had some lean ass needles...it actually did effect the wot, and not in a good way. p.o. tried to fix it by spreading the needle jet horn, and running a real small air jet to get it rich enough......if it's running decent from 1/2 throttle to wot, then make sure it's spot on at wot.......a plug chop is a good way to verify. that is the only main size you should be running, unless weather conditions, or elevation and/or mods change. then, play with the needles untill it runs good, crisp, and clean from about 1/4 throttle and up...... after that, play with the airscrews, small adjustments at a time, to get it to run the best. if it doesn't clean up well, then get it up to operating temp, and adjust the airscrews small amounts, until it reaches the highest idle. if it keeps idling up past 2.5, then it needs a smaller pilot, if it wants to go less than 1/2 turn from seated, then it needs a bigger one. if it doesn't seem to make a difference at all, then pop the choke 1/2 click and see if it gets better or worse, to see which way to go. remember- all adjustments should be made to an engine at operating temp, not cool....as they will be very different........once you get in the range with the pilot, get it warmed up on a good setting to operating temp, then get it to idle the highest with the mixture, bring the idle back down with the idle screws, and do it again. then, turn them in another 1/8 turn and try that.......it's normally pretty close.

what pipes, and what kind of ridding?

first, pop the seal out with a flat-head screwdriver, and dig the rollers and cage free and remove with a magnet. now, there are small pullers that might get it, or you can collapse the sleeve with a chisel and dig it out. be careful not to wedge the chisel or whatever between the race and a weak point in the case. they are usually pretty hardened and might crack the case....

yah, there is no pins on a hr crank, but your tranny will not fair well without them......check the clymers manual to see where they go...

um, lol...yah that's one of the 2 case vents..........it shoud be T'd to the rear vent, and the line going up by the rad, so water doesn't get in there. you can just plug that one if you really want. my dd cover doesn't even have one there. do not mix them up with the coolant hoses...

that's an awesome link there....not to mention it tells you where you can get it in like 100miles or so from your zip code...

with that kind of compression, i would be running 98-100 oct min......and that's pushing it. i would do proper plug chops first and look closely for any specs of metal on them, or if they loosen up.

continue with your other thread................. well, you asked for suggestions

well if you are not the only guy this "accidentally" happened to, and they are trying to feed you bs, instead of making it rigt, then ebay should know about it.....

do bad it's not a serval......i'd probably jump all over it...

this an ebay seller, or what? mabey these guys should be reported....kinda gives dynatek a bad name..

yah, i'm sure that it will like smaller mains with the new intake boots...

did it even come with both caps?

well, alky is a different story, but I've seen guys running 20:1 and 340+ mains and loading everything up with oil. with my oil, i was over-oiling with 32:1 @310. large amounts of oil in reg. fuels does make a big impact on viscosity. you can see this first hand by jetting (with chops) on 2 different ratios, like 20:1 and 40:1.....you can also see how much it's loading up by getting into the engine and exhaust, but generally, the amount of smoking is a good signifier, relative to what oil you run.... it's not really a thing about changing mix as you go up in jet size, just usually makes a big difference when making huge jumps, like going from stock to piped and such, you usually go to 32:1 automatically, and same thing with going from mild bolt-on, to bigger ported builds. usually running 40:1 or less. i don't thing I've seen anyone running more than 32:1 without dealing with the effects....while needing jetting around 300+. it's a big grey area; nothing solid as far as which point, all relative to the build, fuel and oil, but the effect is there. i did mention, that it's just something more to look into, and not the big problem...

just like the rattling kick-start, it can be fixed. just keep the stuff lubed and clean.........i pressure wash mine after a ride and then spray it with wd-40 to prevent rust, and such...and that's in the alaska silt, with 97 shock components. fords and some chevys have the same probelm.........you just lube the bushings and call it a day.......and lube that one that is hidden

actually, i've seen someone running different uppers for correction. i believe vic (LIM whiteboy?) idk about the shocks (i've been thinking about making brackets to move the upper shock mounts a little) but it can correct, and allow you adjust the caster/camber, in stead of being stuck with the radical angle you get. it's like 12-14 degrees, if i remember, and anywhere from 3-7 is normally what you want

the search kinda sucks, but i was able to come up with these....... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=quick_search&search_sort_by=date&search_sort_order=desc&type=forum&type_id=1&search_term=dogs&search_filter_app[forums]=1&st=175 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17268&view=&hl=dogs&fromsearch=1

do you remember what the thread was called, and about how long ago? it would be an interesting read..

haha, i bet because it's not very stout, and will tend to break with heavy use....... .........i noticed a lot of the bad reveiws are from hare scramble, mx, etc.....basically circuit and heavy off-road use. i bet if you only use the clutch to take off, it would be pretty good...and don't wreck

imho, if you are running 390 mains and that much pre-mix, then you are way over-oiling. basically, up to the mid-high 200's, 20:1 is fine, but 270+ it's normally better to be in the 32:1 range, and 40:1 in the 300's+. all this, of course varies with the oil and fuel you use. you silencers must drip like a fountain.... large amounts of oil will also lean you out through viscosity, as well. just something to look into. I'm pretty sure your intakes are what kept melting it down. i bet at least the right one had oil creeping through the cracks. another thing i like to do to any carb i install, is take some scotch-brite, or emery cloth/sand-paper to the outside where the rubber clamps. I've seen it leak there more than once from glazing, but never when I've done this.

i like how purdy and stout a pingle is, which is why i would probably buy one, even if i didn't need the flow. anywho- the main port, and rez port by itself should flow more than a single needle/seat, so you can still mod the thing to flow plenty for 2 needle/seat setups wide open. only thing i could see is if someone has it setup with electric pj's or somehow pulling fuel from before the float valve

judging by your sig at a glance, it doesn't look like yolu had enough compression for the c-12, or were you mixing 50/50?

also, make sure the cable/pertch isn't hanging up. you are supposed to lube it regularly (i do it when i change the oil, and just use the same stuff, but that might be hard if you run a thicker oil) at least 2x a season on all cables. the pancake is real nice, and make sure that there is never pressure on the pusher when you are not pulling it.

actually...it's a good idea to mill the cap, tooso that it can feed fuel from the main and aux at the same time, if you want it to flow that much....