AKheathen

there should be 2 hoses. one plumbed into the cap/fill, which goes to the bottom of the overflow, and the other is plumbed into the pressurized part of the radiator goes to the top of the head.

unplug your e-brake wires. (the wires going into the clutch lever)

i'm not familiar with the numbers, but you likely have a stroker there. that is a spacer plate. copper is reuseable. measure the stroke in mm.

lube your cables, and clean the slides. check for kinks too. that's probably your tors doing what they were designed to do. keep it from running away when a slide or cable sticks.

don't care which ones. i heard some guys needing to change silencers because of sound/sparky complience, but i don't have to worry about that, so you can dump them on me for a fair price. even if the baffle/packing is shot. i can rebuild. i just need some. i'm running fmf silencers, but they're not quite right for the pipes. lemmie know -Heath H.-

check the pic in the other thread. it shows it

just now watched the vids. you need to tune for a warmmed up bike. run it for a couple minuets, then cruise around for a couple, then hit it hard for about 2 sec. then start adjusting for what i needs. if 30 isn't big enough, you have other issues. t5's like 25's normally. check your silencers to see if they need repack. fresh premium. check reeds. 91/99- check your float bowls. notice in the pic which one has the little brass bead in it. that's how it should look

alot. your jetting will change. (you will need to richen a couple sizes for lower octane) and you will be more prone to detonation if you have higher compression or timing. also if it sits a while. that, and higher octane pump contains more touline/xylene, depending on who made it. that means that means that 94 pump could be closer to 40% solvent. less solvent means more deposit buildup.

x2 240-260, depending on temp and elevation. there is a little black box with 3 wires coming out. it'ss directly under the gas tank on the left. unplug it.

if you get into some technical, or nasty shit, pcp's are the way to go. mine performed unbelievibly well in the woods/trail/sand, you name it. power now! just gun it at a whoop or jump and fly. they really do make power everywhere. btw, i have the same reeds too.

the choke tube is a little piece of vaccume hose that connects to a nipple on the back of the choke and goes directly across to a nipple on the right carb. do a search on syncing your carbs, and check/replace your plugs

your symptoms say 1or 2 sizes lean, but that's with the low octane fuel. go up 2, and drop one if it sputters at wot. you shoudn't be running cheap gas, but you don't need, or even bnifit from anything over 93 octane. you might actually loose some running race fuel with 22's. 155psi and +4 timing is about right, but you may only get 135-145, which is fine, but may be the limit for low oct. or over.

you should just run premium. defiately sounds like the main is off. change the fuel and do a plug chop

huh? you mixin 4:1? or the oil is 20% castor? are you saying it's not smoking? is it boiling while ridding, or sitting running?

what does the smoke smell like? do a leakdown test.

pulling it out of storage and just kicking it 'till it starts. it's even worse if you use starting fluid or strait gas to pop it off. of course, the oil you use will greatly effect this

um...I picked those up in person right after he posted. check again. you can find the same deal all day on ebay. ask minkia38. all he does on here is part banshee's. reeds/cages $10/pair. picked up 4 sets.

just curious. tree/log size. car? dead body? loan? :biggrin: only things i've hauled are a 6"x20' tree, yfz450, and my wife, but' that's only like 120#

if you have 20's, then i would suspect detonation. that's why i havn't gone +4 yet

the 230's would have been fine for just the pipes, but removing the lid and snorkel should put you aroung 270-260

well, that's a hard one to vote for. simple answer is when the rings/cylinders are worn. every engine is different. if you have reason to suspect that it's time, ie. poor low rpm operation, abusive life like cheap oil, air leaks, dry starts, contaminants, etc. open her up and check. you can potentially go over 100 hrs on a good motor, or you can neglect one for 20-30. i have a blaster and king quad baught in 94, and the blaster is still running strong, and the suzuki needs rings.

have you done a compression test?

oh, damn! wish i saw this earlier. a single 10" L7 kicker square in the largest sealed box, with a 500watt rms class d mono amp, and a pioneer deck would have yeilded the most effective resultswithout breaking the bank. high spl, without real noticible loss in s.q. 1st gen s10's are tight bodies, and hold the sound really well. my 85 s10 blazer yeilded 146.6 with 2 bmf 10's and an 1100d. and my 95 sonoma single cab is loud as hell with a single L7 8" and a 400watt pheonix gold. the craziest setup in my personal vehicles was 2 15" L7's in the bed of my toyota with a 12 cubic ft. vented box. had the sunroof mooving 2" and the wipers holding on for dear life

my friend has a....76? travellall, that he's converting to something like an avalanche. probably welding in the bed as we speak.

looks like it is slanted, but just a little. like unintentional :biggrin: