AKheathen

it's not as much cost, as availiability. i ran into enough trouble finding premix oil near where i was ridding last week, and i'm not sure methanol, or race fuel will be near as easy as xylene to get a hold of, outside of anchorage, or fairbanks. how much will the jetting change with methanol?

man, they don't like noselands at all. harsh if you come up short. i like being able to gun it up a whoop with the new pipes

it's about 1.5" and the big problem with the stock cables is the way they atatch. open the tors boxes and you'll see what i mean.

worn tread, or slightly different tread could throw the spedo off some on little cars

fouled plug

the silencers will change the jetting some, too

havn't baught it in 3 years, when i was diong body, but i think i was geeting it at carques on discount, or hightech supply. and i used it on plastics and rubber all the time, where you couldn't use acetone or lacquer thinner. so, it's pre-86 grand-am?

haha, awesome. i'm real curious to try it with +4 and 18's, but i don't wanna "learn the hard way" at least not untill the fall when i plan on either doing a 4 mill, or pv build, anyways. so, you actually do pull power from it, not just knock resistance?

it's because the compression ratio is the deciding factor. stock stroke and porting allows us to use cranking compression as the basis for the banshee

the stock chambers range between 22 and 25, not all the same, and cranking compression increases @ a slope. for example, you should gain alot more pressure jumping between 16-15cc, than you would jumping from 22-21cc's. it would be nice if a more experienced builder like blowit or daj would chime in :biggrin:

oh, just go to the noss site, and check with your elevation. probably 20's. 155-165 psi, depending on how much wear on the rings.

thanx for the responses. what did you mix@?

well, now. that changes things. you will need to figure the compression ratio on the new porting specs. i can't remember the cutoff for pump93, but i think it was about 10.4:1 to go strait race fuel. maybey someone else can chime in off the top of their head?

i'm not taking about xyline as a conventional "octane booster" but as a higher octane fuel to mix with the 90 oct. i.e.-"4:1 will raise 90pts; = 99 oct from 90, but has compatibility issues with conventional oils" or something like that. xylene is a solvent, with a higher flash point than gasoline. what i have heard in the auto scene is that you can use it when running higher boost and timing, but it's either bad for the sensors, fuel system, deposits, or washing the cylinders of oil. can't remember, but last i checked, it was only $8/gal, which wouldn't be bad if i was only doing like a qt. per tank, or 5 gal. can.

that could also be lean. should have a resonant undertone to it

stockkers are between 22-25cc's, and .030 is the point where you will have to have the head re-chambered to prevent piston slap. coolheads don't really do much for cooling, but you can switch the domes to whatever you want. trust me, 21-20's will be fine on pump, and even smaller @ higher elevations. noss machine's website has a dome chart, if you don't believe me.

no. i am running 20's on 90 octane without detonation, and have some 18's if i want to run higher octane temporarily and switch back to 20's. stock timing and porting

has anyone used xyline to boost octane with pump gas in the banshee? how much? oil compatibility? other issues?

that is too much. 20 is the limit on 90, and i've heard people pushing 19's on 93 with stock timing. i would do 21's or 20's and +4 timing. ~160psi on stock port :thumbsup:

yah, they sound like a cammed big block, but i'm gonna rebuild them as not to hinder my precious low end, which i noticed once the packing blew out. my toomy stingers are too smal for the pcp's

ok, not grand items, or high dollar, but i have a few easy ones. first, a tors removal kit that utilizes the stock parts, mostly. all it would need is the cable retainers that screw into the slide for the stock cable, and the ones that screw into the stock caps, plus the idle screws. second, is the shifters. one, +1 or+2, or even+3. another, with a heel lever on it, tucked twards the rear sproket, so it doesn't accidentally get hit, but makes switching between upshifting, and downshifting easier, buy twisting your fott, rather than moving above and below the shifter. i have another big idea, if you have the capibilities of producing cylinders for other engines. pm me if interested. the biggest thing people are seeking in any market is low cost, and if you just look at marketing for something like can-am, where everything is rediculously overpriced, but shouldn't be more cost to produce than other similar products.

what do the fenders look like?

fuckin awesome! i love these pipes. just have to get some new silencers. these ones are trashed. had to sew my core back together with bailing wire, and the other one is about to break.

was the battery hard to find for a jumpstart? :biggrin:

are you wondering about making them bigger, or smoothing out the edges to a curve? obviously, they should be large enough not to cause restriction, but the air will tend to follow any gradual slopes and curves. leaving the sharp edge will allow the incoming air to stay the tract longer. the area with the highest velocity would benefit from an even match to follow, but that usually requires some major machining and/or stuffing. that being said, there is pulses traveling both directions through the reeds which can interfere with the flow more greatly when you spread the incoming charge toward the more indirect flow areas. basically, either maintain higher velocities by using the stuffers, or leave edges that do not draw the charge out of it's path. another factor to think about is the flow delay timing, which, of course will be more conducive to an rpm range.