AKheathen

single carb doesn't change compression. wot, and kick 'till it stops moving

i meant the electrical wiring to the clutch pertch. the green/yellow wire. should be disconnected, or you could have problems where it won't rev past 2300

check the play in the bearing. if it's good, just pry the old one out, without damaging the case, and replace.

you'll probably be pushing it wit stock port timings @ sea level. what's your elevatoin? what was the compression after the build?

check your e-brake wiring

did you check the pilot nossle as well? the little hole in the rear bore, where the fuel from the pilot sprays.

haha, i knew that i spelled it wrong when i posted, but since no one corrected me yet, didn't bother bringing it up. well, thanx for the info. i've only used xylol in the paint and body,m but heard about using it as fuel, and wanted to know more, because availibility of fuels and oils is an issue where i ride. there's usually only auto parts, and hardware stores near where i ride. nothing to do with performance needs. i know beter than to use conventional octane boosters, but i want to just bump the timing, and fix my silencers, so i can get a little more power to last 'till the fall when i'll do a 4 mill, or pv/both. guess i'll just look into 100LL.

what's your elevation/temp? how many seconds did you run wot? check your silencers and reeds, too.

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well, what wires did you mess with? if all you did was the switch, and then it stopped working, i would start by ohming that. this should help 13.7-20.5 on the stator, and ~100 on the pickup coil red+green and red/white+green/white black/white wire should not see ground untill you kill it, and black red should see ground to run look near the exhaust for any melting

check the switch and wiring

that's not the light wire. it's the tors. leave it unplugged, and remove the little black box. the light wire is solid yellow.

did you replace the just the wires, or the caps, as well. the big screws on top are the idle screws. sync the carbs, and check the pickup gap

fouled plug or airleak. check for airleaks. check the choke tube between the carbs. check your silencers for restriction, and change the plug. make all adjustments with a warmed up engine. generally, on the airscrews, i find that it likes 1/2-1/4 turn in from where it idles the highest. you're gonna need to get to the needles. most likely will want the needles in the middle clip, so if you can see that they atre there (there is 5 grooves) through the retainers, then you should be ok there.

haha, so you already got rick-rolled? what's that banshee billet thing? doesn't look like i'll try it for a while. i'm goin to work wed. and strait out campin when i get home 3 wks. later

click the link to find out. it's the blue words in the post

and here's the vid to proove it 86, takes a shit

i've got you under surveilance. your taking a shit right now :ninja: mwahahahahaha!

you're probably missing the spring that goes under the airscrew. check.

well, it's a conversion of sorts, but i'd like to work with someone to patent the idea/design. what kinda #'s can you do? don't wanna spill too much, but it could have huge potential damn it! almost :shoothead: walked away without hitting post, again

oh, beat me to it. you can also check the flywheel output by using a testlight in the stator ignition coil wires. should light evenly, really bright, as it's about 16-20 volts or more just from a kick. if there is a flywheel issue, and the stator is good, it will flicker, or be dim. you used a puller, right?

holly shit dude, are you that pissed. the problem with your bike, is that you are using your angry words you have to talk dirty to it. haha, try again, tell us the whole story in full sentences we can understand, with more info. why did you change the harness in the first place? did you check for spark once it wouldn't start, with a fresh plug? did you ohm things out? etc...

30 is probably too big, but start by moving the needles around, and adjusting the airscrews to get it good enough to do a plug chop to check the mains. the yellow wire is your lights. check for a shorting wire somewhere

if you're talking about porting your reed cages, there is plenty of literature on that if you do a search, mostly this winter that i know. mike is a fanatic on the process, but it is a good thing to do. what were talking about here, is opening aftermarket intakes. a gradual slope would be ok, if there is adequate material to remove, but simply rounding the edges would not be as benificial. either open the whole thing up, install stuffers, or leave it alone. it will work ok no mater what you do, just not as good as it can be when done right.

they didn't get real popular untill they became a compact in 85 with the 3.0 distributorless. or, were you talking about a different car?