AKheathen

the surfaces can get worn and glazed, and develop some imperfections that make it hard or imposible to seat the flywheel on the taper completely, or square. also if your flywheel comes loose. if you don't seat it good it can start sheering keys. if you're ever in a pinch, and hve enough tooling, you can clean it up with a file/emery cloth and heat-seat the flywheel. had to do this out camping this summer. only problem is when you need to remove it..... think i remember it coming up as part of a flywheel key discussion, but don't totally remember it for sure. my method is to use the nut tightened down with a flat washer, then backed off just enough to spin the flywheel. don't go too crazy, or you can make a ridge on the shaft that will keep the flywheel from seating all the way, too. apply a little rocking pressure as you rotate it. either way works. you're just trying to get an even grip on the shaft

umm.....huh? you mean a seal driver? piece of pipe, or deep socket if you are around tractor or heavy equipment tooling o, wait, that's the pto side. just any socket that fits the bore with just a little play

yah, i know. i'm just dead set on coated pistons, and need the lr pistons for my 4mill. i was just wondering if the design on them would work good for topend, and not as good in my low-mid build, or help @ all rpm's. i was going to try namura coated pistons, but it looked more likea little teflon inserted in the skirt, and not much of it, although that was the same material i'm partial to. other option is to send 795's to swaintech..... thanx for responding.

you know, i started a thread on this recently and no replies.....still wondering My link

not knockin the ptr's but the pro-circuits will make a little more power for what you're ridding. they come on pretty low and pull real strong. one big thing you'll notice right away over the t-5's is that you can launch off a whoop or mound real nicely just by stabbing the throttle from a relatively low rpm, and stay in 1 gear twice as long. i ran my timing up to +5.5

x2, i have this problem often.....sfter sucking a littlw water in the box. goes away when it warmes up and evaporates the water away...

holly f'n old post batmann...

juys like jeff will do it for like 60 or less......

with the head off, bring the piston all the way up to tdc and set something there to mark where the top of the piston is. rotate it all the way down to bdc and measure that distance. measure how far the piston sticks out when all the way up, ad clean the top of the piston to read the part number. you might have to pull the jugs to read the crank number if you can't get a measurement

clamp the crank outter bearings in each case half @ a time and see how it rolls. is it hard 360 degrees?

if there is a local gas station near or @ that altitude and you are running pump. go empty, and fill up with that gas. the sg of that fuel should get you running right or at least close. don't forget to switch back when you go back to lower elevations.

ah, shoot. i see what your talking about. the bolt is a cross-pin. use a combo wrench and stick it strait out on the open end and stick a screwdriver or another wrench to hold it like a t-handle setup. then, just tighten the bolt down. i have to do it once in a while on fittings where an extension flexes too much on crows feet. works pretty slick...

here's what you do- buy your .080 pistons and have the cylinders bored to match. make sure thet chamfer the ports or the piston/rings could catch. then, have your stock crank trued/welded if the bearings are decent. i believe it's only like 60 or less. then, you can save up and buy the parts for the 4 mill as the money comes along, and then have everything ready to go on all @ once the right way.

all depends on how far you want to go. sprocket change, boysen dual stage or carbon tech low tension reeds, coolhead with smaller domes, different pipes like ptr mids or pro circuits. programable cdi......

the baffle looks bigger in those silencers, and the mounts are missing off the tubes.......i have the silencers from hat era. runnin 'em on my pro circuits now.

i'm assuming you have aftermarket hubs made for stock axle/nuts...... go down to your local fastener specialist and find a thinwall castle nut, or make one out of a regular thin wall nut. the durablue nuts are a bit big...... not sure i'd go removing material from the hubs, though.

what's the current squish?

for now, and after, as stated you can run different domes, pickup an adjustible timing plate. an aftermarket cdi isn't a big thing for drag. get some vforce 3's and, as always with any carb, you don't want anything at all bigger than what the motor can flow. you will loose tuneability and power/acceleration. dual feed pingle valve to feed the carbs, and, of coarse, intakes to match the carbs and reeds. you may want to go ahead and get a lockup now, too.

haha, it's blowit, not blewit..... just a thaught.... i think of the plastic gear as a type of "torque fuse" in case of bearing failure. i wonder if anyone has ever had a bearing failure with a metal gear, and if any damage was done to the cover or caused by the gear. just curoius....

are you running an airbox lid? are you running aftermarket pipes?

well, if you had the mounts that make it so you can bolt strait down, like regular fog lights, then you could mount them to the front plastic mounting screws.....

that picture is too much of a mess. tear it down, clean it up and take a good pic. it might be reuseable and it might be toast. just depends on how the rod struck it

so, this is it, huh? billet shift star looks nice, but how is it for finding neutral? looks like it could rool out of neutral easy.

well, i sure hope the rod bearing has spun....severl times, lol. sarcasm aside, you can buy a rod kit and it comes with the rod, shaft, upper/lower needle roller bearings, and thrust washers. it just all depends on how much you want to spend to rebuild the whole thing. sounds like the rod is probably gouged at the least. you need to mic all the bearings and determin if you can get away with 60-80+labor, or better off new assembly.

i too, ran 20 cc's on stock timing/porting with a squish of .050" squish and .020" bore. can't remember the cr, since it's on my broken laptop along with the cylinder specs. but, i ran 90 oct without problems untill i switched to 95oct when i bumped timing to +5.5