muggzy

Those threads should go all the way into the carb. That slanted edge of the hole you tapped into will probably have to be ground flat (and then some) as well so that the screws go deep enough to lift the slides properly. Savage has a really good how to on this that I'm sure he could point you to if you ask.

Dibs on the domes. PM sent

I don't need to google the definitions. It was a long day. Excuse my erroneous use of the word detonation for ignition. The meaning was clear. If the kill switch was off as described, the fuel is igniting without the spark plug igniting it "dieseling" there's no way to know about timing - my bad.

You're confusing the air-fuel mixture with the volume getting to the cylinders. Yes the air-fuel is rich but you're getting less to the cylinder when you need it: the water is not compressible so you're also effectively increasing the compression ratio. This is leading to pre-detonation - dieseling. This is why the cut-off switch doesn't work to shut it off. So you automatically let go of the throttle and even with the throttle closed, the engine races uncontrollably but now without the fuel-air mix (lube) to support it that kind of HIGH RPM. The only thing that does work is to pull out the choke so the mix becomes so rich it won't burn. Think it ALL the way through next time before telling someone they're wrong.

Same here. It took a while to figure out b/c i figured the water was hitting my filter and choking off my air intake but the symptom was more like a lean condition. Another member on here said it and it makes total sense: When the water hits your filter/prefilter/whatever, it atomizes and displaces the air you'd normally take into your motor, so now your running REALLY LEAN and that's of course, a bad thing. I have two long, wide (1.25") slots drilled down the length of the top of my airbox lid. Got a pro flow adapter for my K&N filter and bought a bunch of those stretch-on book covers from the dollar store. Stretch 'em out and spray with a good water repellant spray. Put one over your air box lid and the rest in your pocket. When you hit that unavoidable puddle, just pull a dry one out of your pocket and replace the wet one and you're good to go. Not ideal but one or two in your pocket when you know it's gonna be wet works ok. Kinda like condoms

Your pods got wet. Clean and dry 'em real good and don't go bashing through puddles any more. When the filter is wet, you would think it'll run rich but when the water atomizes, it causes a lean condition and will rev out of control if it's not under load.

Best way is to just upload them to photobucket.com and just paste the image link (last one) on here. That way you don't have to mess around with resizing them.

OK, I went out and took a few pics of my stock foot peg and nerf mounting. I hadn't noticed it before, but apparently the kickstart is meant to hit the mounting tab of the stock foot peg. If you look at the kickstart pedal, there's a tab on there that makes contact with "ear" on the foot peg. I also took a side view so you can see where the pedal sits when mounted as far forward as it will go:

I can't comment on your nerfs since I don't know what they look like. But if the kick start pedal is hitting them when you try to start her up, then something needs to be done. Adjust the pedal as far forward as you can first (there will be a limit to how far forward it'll go) and see if it still hits the nerf bar.

Yeah, the pilots will be printed on the side with the size. You might want to get yourself a Clymer's Manual - it'll be the best $30 you'll ever spend and it's a good place to keep your notes on whatever mods you decide to do As for the throw on the kick starter, you can take it off at the splined shaft and rotate it a notch forward. You'll get a little more that way but the throw on the Banshee is short.

Unless your altitude is high, you're definitely gonna need 27.5 pilots. If you're altitude is under 1500ft, we have pretty similar set ups so you might want to start with that (in my sig) and do a few plug chops to dial it in.

Need more info; What mods have you got. Though you probably need bigger pilot jets and other jetting adjustments

I saw this too and got the same email back yesterday, so I sent an email to the military police at Fort Stewart, GA letting them know that someone is running a scam in the guise of a soldier who's being shipped out to Iraq. Should piss them off enough that they'll forward it to whoever investigates this sort of thing.

Only if you buy it

I made this out of a piece of 1 x 2 scrap angle alum I had laying around... Used the plastic mount for a template for the hole and just filed it out to fit. Didn't need to splice any wire into the harness either. Just CAREFULLY cut the wires free that you need to the switch and re-wrap the harness once you have the switch re-located. It's very inconspicuous, even when you open it in front of people most don't notice it tucked under like that.

What da ya mean? The pics are right there. Can't ya see em?

Yeah this sucks. If you do track the POS down, don't go alone.

What kind of shape are the ball joints and boots in? Any pics?

Check out this bit of my thread... http://www.blasterforum.com/449716-post127.html Aluminum foil and water. I heard alum and coke but the soda wasn't necessary, Water worked out just as well.

You could possibly play with the scaling on the 115 x 4 bolt pattern (or make your own) on your computer and print it out... http://www.pureoffroad.com/atv_wheel_bolt_pattern_guide.htm

Yeah, check out the Banshee Digital Tool Kit pinned to the Jetting and Exhaust Forum. I find it to be WAY high but it's a start. There's lots of awesome info in there too that you just won't find all in one place anywhere else.

Dibs on the works shocks. Will pm you when I get to my computer tonight. (On phone now)

1st - You're running lean and if you keep at it, you WILL blow your engine. 2nd - You may want to drill out your airbox (since it costs nothing) 3rd - increase your pilots to 27.5's, move your needle clips down 1 from the center (4th pos) and start off with 280 mains, you'll probably go down to 260's or lower once you do a few plug chops. Search on here for info on how to do plug chops and recent posts I've put up on the subject of jetting and pilots. Happy to help but you gotta use the search bar - look in the section on jetting and exhaust... Good luck

Has your rebuild been broken in yet? Your compression will go up after a proper break-in.

Yeah, I was thinking fhe water would clog the intake, making it choke (rich) but you're making a lot of sense. I coundn't understand why it woud behave lean, but that water must be atomizing when it hits the filter.