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muggzy

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Everything posted by muggzy

  1. I'm at 900 ft elevation with the mods and jetting as shown in my sig. No timing advance and the port job has a big impact so you might want to start where I'm at and go down? Also, the bore (65mm) will have an impact as well...
  2. Hey Guys, About a month ago my rear end loosened up suddenly. It's one of those things I check routinely so I caught it and adjusted my chain before tightening it back up. I had just checked it on Friday before riding in the woods for several hours. Saturday I went out witout checking it and my chain came off miles from anywhere and sure enough, the carrier was lose again. I got the chain back on and made it back without incident but I've got little confidence in the stock swingarm/carrier anymore. Any suggestions, advice? I'm looking for a used stock-length swingarm and round house carrier and wondering what I should expect to pay for a simple silver powder coat steel arm. I don't need chrome. ALL of my riding is in the woods, sometimes on some really rocky trails and I'm due for carrier bearings anyway. Thanks
  3. Thanks, I'm skeptical that it's the cable, been this way for 3+ yrs and I'm pretty sure I lubed it sometime since I rebuilt the bike but I'm gonna go out and try the WD40 right now. It's def not something I remember to do routinely. If it helps at all I'll replace the cable, but it's been this way since day 1 for me. I'm sure it's not the perch bearing. I replaced every single bearing and seal in the engine when I redid it and there's not a spot of rust anywhere but thanks for the thought.
  4. Hey I could use some advice, I rebuilt my Banshee when I got it over 3 years ago and have been riding like this since. The clutch lever is really difficult to pull in and always has been. At the time I rebuilt it, I was totally unfamiliar with Banshees and ordered the parts an acquaintance recommended (including clutch) I can't even remember if I put in new springs or not. Anyway, I let a friend ride my bike last weekend and he was shocked at how tight the lever was, complained his hand was sore after just 5 min. I told him to quit crying and grow some muscles. But after riding all day today and thinking about it while riding, I gotta admit, the damn thing is really tight. Relative to the brake lever, it's ridiculous. So I'm wondering, could it just be the clutch springs are just way too stiff? What spings should I buy to try and lighten the lever?
  5. Man, that really sucks! I've heard of it happening but (luckily), it never happened to me. Is the rod siezed to something? If so, you might wanna try drilling and tapping it about an inch deep. Then you can get a screw into it and (hopefully) pull it out? Of course if it's not seized, you can just turn the bike up on it's side and it'll fall out . Just going through the drilling and tapping might break it loose, best of luck! let us know what happens.
  6. I use a parking lot/street in an industrial park on Sunday mornings so it's guaranteed to be empty. Any chance you've got something like that around you somewhere? Or a service road along a RR track or something?
  7. I just got a set of PWK28s myself so I'm really curious to see where this goes. Correct me if I'm wrong (anybody) on any of when I'm comanting on below here... I've always gone up to 6th hold til max speed, then pull in the clutch and kill it. Never heard of only going to fourth. Maybe the lean reading isn't accurate? Need new float valves? the float height should be checked without full float pressure on the needle - sort of with the float hanging at a little less than vertical if you know what I mean? Body should start vertical and then tilt it down 'til the float just starts to press against the needle?
  8. I Wanna see this when it's all put together. Nice stuff!
  9. Paypal is george@mugno.org $45 shipped. I used it once on a stock carb so I can't say from experience that it'll fit your 39's, only what FAST says it will do. to learn to use it, the's a few videos on youtube. Just search banshee carb sync. Also check FAST's site for instructions - I think they're on there too.
  10. According to an ealier post by FAST, this will fit up to a 40mm carb : http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54123&view=findpost&p=449643
  11. I got this from F.A.S.T. The tapered end is all it comes with. It measures ~1 1/2" diam. at the small end and 2 1/2"+ at the widest.
  12. Subject line says it all. $45 shipped. That's not crud on the side of the dial, it's a reflection of the bubble wrap in the pic... What you see is what I got. Make it yours.
  13. I've got one still in the bubble wrap - $45 shipped
  14. Hey guys, I finally upgraded to 28mm PWKs so I can get rid of the stock Mikunis so now I need a starting point for my jetting.. Can anyone ballpark my jetting on the PWK28's? I have NO mains or Pilots right now and the needles are N68A. All I can find on the carbs says that the 'A' on the needles means they are the richest needles if that's even accurate. Current jetting is in my sig. and I'm at 900ft.
  15. Billet aluminum water pump impeller. This impeller replaces the stock plastic unit. Not only will this impeller not break like the plastic unit, it provides up to 35% more efficient cooling. Design features a stainless steel shaft: $75 shipped
  16. From the mfr web site: Hex Valve with dual 5/16” hose barb outlets designed for the Yamaha YFZ350 Banshee and YFM660R Raptor. For 1987-2005 models. Adapter included. This valve does not have a reserve. from https://shop.pingelo...submit?comp=PEI This is a brand new Pingel valve $80 shipped
  17. Yeah, I know 'bout the Benjamins, I just like to try and keep 'em in my pocket and ask around first . Thanks AC
  18. Yeah I know where to get any run-of-the mill hose clamp. I have a SHIT LOAD right here in my garage. The Yami ones are narrower and the one that goes btwn the carb and reeds has this notch so it doesn't tear the intake boot. Yeah I know I'm obsessing but that's why my '97 looks as clean as it does without me at a lot of bling. I just like to use stock wherever possible. Thanks
  19. Hey All, Anyone know where I can find replacements for the stock hose clamps on both sides of the carbs? The 6 & 7 bucks a piece from some of the OEM parts suppliers on-line just sounds ridiculous. TIA
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