muggzy

OK, so I've got a basically stock ported engine with 65mm pistons and 21cc domes and just for shits and giggles, my cranking compression is 158psi. How then do I know what fuel I should be running? I'm using 93 octane pump gas and want to stay that way.

You don't say where you want the power. Woods riding, I'd guess you're looking for bottom and mid range. You could mill your head or go with a cool head and smaller domes. I don't have any experience with Vito's reeds, but I found that the VF3's definitely improved my throttle response. I'd also caution you about going up too much on carb sizes. The trade-off for the higher airflow (improves hi end) that the bigger carbs buys you is shitty low end power/response. Send Snopzinski (spelling?) a PM and ask him about the work he did on the woods bike he just sold (is selling). All kinds of work and only 28mm PWKs. There's a reason for it.

Try Powersport super store (512) 535-5010 (Mon-Fri 10 AM to 6 PM Central time) their prices seem really good. And I just saw that trinity it now a site sponsor so you might want to try them first: 1877FASTOYS or trinityracing.com btw, think twice before "dumping the box" If you ever have to cross water more than a foot deep, you'll be screwed.

Hey, has anyone been successful PCing stock a-arms? I thought it couldn't be done b/c the nylon socket would melt.

Keep the airbox and add the proflow with the stock style k&N. Take off the snorkle but keep your top otherwise you're gonna hate it when you get it wet

Oops! Congratulations man

Yeah, here's where you need to put her http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97043&st=0&p=836835&hl=+girls%20+banshees&fromsearch=1entry836835

PM Sent on the A-arms and Headlights

Hey guys, I just went from 22cc (145psi) to 21cc domes (158psi). Why would this change my jetting. The power is definitely up but I noticed a there's a lag in the mid today. I picked up some needles from my buddy's shop and I'm gonna adjust my mains (richer?). So OK it's gonna run hotter but I didn't increase air flow through the thing so why would I need to re-jet?

I'm 48 and got my first ATV - the Banshee at 43 in about 4 boxes with a blown top end and shredded crank . Got a Clymers manual and went to work learning how the thing goes together. Been playin with it ever since. Learned to ride on it too (and still learning) it's not exactly a beginner's bike is it ? I just finished (well you never really finish) building a Blaster to have as a companion bike 'cause riding by yourself isn't usually too cool. So this summer, I'm gonna use it to learn how to build my own extended swingarm and who knows, maybe i'll do one for the Banshee? But wehter I'm turning wheels or turning wrench, it's a past-time I wont be giving up anytime soon Bansheeb0y5505 used to have this tag line: You don't stop ridin 'cause you get old. You get old 'cause you stop ridin. And I sure as hell am not ready to get old yet.

I'm going fast enough. I generally ride woods and trails. I really wasn't looking for or need more top end, just surprised it wasn't a little more .... see below I knew there would be hit from the laws of diminishing returns as far as higher RPMs and therefore overall top end speed but I'd read somewhere that it happened at higher compression than I added. Yeah, that's why I thought there'd be more. I figured another 5 or so and I added some power with the compression ... According to this (if I'm reading you correctly), I'm putting out just over 100hp. No offense, but I doubt it. Overall, I'm thrilled with the improved throttle response. The only thing I wasn't totally happy about with my Banshee was the sort of unpredictable way the power band would hit when I just wanted a little more not necessarily A LOT more. Like at the or near the crest of a steep hill climb

Not familiar with the carb but i'll give you my 2 cents worth on the oil mix: I've been running Maxima semi synth 2-stroke @ 32:1 for nearly 2 1/2 years and recenly checked my compression (145psi ea) it was as good as the day I rebuilt it. I also run a little rich on my jetting. So the question you have to answer is do you want every available ounce of power or do you want long-term reliability? Many on here will tell you to run 40:1 but you can't argue with my record Oh, if you run the way I do, you ought to gap your plugs @ 0.022 and you'll never have a problem with them fouling on you.

Ok, i'd been running with a 13t front and stock rear (got it that way) and recently changed to a 14t front. I rode it for litterally 2 min and liked how it felt: surprisingly no noticable loss in low end torque. So I went ahead and changed my domes from 22cc to 21cc and the compression went from 145ea to 158ea. I'm still running 93 oct. The bottom end is awesome and the power band "hit" smoothed out completely which is exactly what I was looking to do. My top speed is only about 4mph faster. I thought with the bigger front sprocket and more torque, I would've got a little more top speed than that.???

Your pilots sound small and you mains sound too big. As soon as you add pipes, you usually go up to 27.5 pilots, may wanna try 30s with your setup. where are your needle clips? Have you done a plug chop yet? How do they look?

These are Works Dual Rate Stealers with the gas charge valve on the shock body as opposed to the gas res in a separate canister. I didn't mean to mis represent what I have, I'm certainly no shock expert. That's what I have. Just got home from work. I'll get pics up tomorrow.

You're getting the filter wet. Don't do that Check out his thread; http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=143154&st=0&p=1235255&fromsearch=1entry1235255 Mine does bog under load but without load it runs away. It's not your tors, you already proved that. Next time it happens simply take your filter off and run your engine just to prove to yourself its a wet filter.

They're an inch shorter, so right away, you've lowered your front end and reduced the travel. I've got a set of banshee works shocks that I bought for my blaster and they cause the ball joints to bottom out 'cause they're 1" too long. Haven't ridden on them b/c of that. They're Dual rate with internal rez. Wanna trade?

It all depends on the geometry of the new arms, the mounting arrangement on the existing guards, and what you're willing to tolerate for a "fit". My guess is no.

Damnit, you're right. If a slide sticks, (that's below the TORS box) and unless the cable is held back b/c of it, the TORS won't know it. Fuck it anyway, I'm gonna start saving for some after market carbs. Anyone got a set of 28mm PWKs?

Yeah, I've developed an irrational attachment to the stock carbs and wasn't willing to give em up so easily. Probably why I've been wasting so much time trying to fix what's wrong. Thanks for the input

Nah, It's something I thought of too and not so far fetched. I had actually taken the rubber off and inspected and stretched it quite a bit in my hands. It was all mint. Nice and shiny and pliable. I let my buddy satisfy himself (and me) with the brake cleaner (inert, non-flamable type) in case I missed something or in case it might be somewhere else i didn't actually look. It should have caused a bog if there was a leak. I ran the Blaster today and started spraying the filter and the only time I could get it to race was when I blipped the throttle. So I would have to say that DEFINITELY was a sticky slide. However, the similarity was there in that it began with a little blip but the RPMs continued to run away even though I never squeezed the throttle beyond 1/4-1/2ish. You know, I think we're running headlong into the reason (whatever it is) that Yamaha/Mikuni put that TORS box on the top of the carbs and I think I'm finally going to concede that there is something going on here that even their engineers couldn't do anything about so the TORS was their "fix". Thanks All

There were two other threads and they were getting so cluttered that summarizing what's been done to date made sense. My reply to your post wasn't "Shitting on you" I simply questioned your conclusion. As you say yourself: It was your input regarding the water injection in your turbo that made me question what I was first speculating as an explanation and I said as much when I restarted the thread the first time (I think I even linked back to the original) People (inlcuding you) keep suggesting that it's the slides sticking so I carefully eliminated that as a potential problem (item 1 in the summary above) The slides were at bottom and throttle wasn't touched. I'm just trying to carry on this conversation with updates so we can all learn from it. Hopefully someone will come up with an idea (maybe even a wrong one) that will spark some understanding. Then I'll share it back on the thread (as I always do) so we can all learn from it. It's not lean. For one, I'm running for over two years on this rebuild and the compression is still 145psi on both sides. Second, when the power band hits, it hits HARD if anything's lean it would be the pilot circuit where this problem is showing up. And third, the plug chops confirm it's rich - ring at the base of the cone is a wide 2mm and dark. I'm at ~900ft (and up to possibly 2000ft max) I appreciate your input. Thanks. I did exactly the same thing and got the same results when I started looking at this problem. Maybe, under some circumstances my slides are sticking but the problem is reproduce-able when the slides are bottomed and the throttle isn't being touched. I have a Blaster with the 26mm Mikuni carb, I'm gonna try spraying that filter with water and see what it does. The only thing that'll tell me though is whether or not it's related to the specific bike or more something more common than that (like the carb?). Hell, it's somethin

Might wanna bring a replacement air filter and pro-flo adapter? I'm guessing it's pretty dusty over there? unless Yamaha improved that crappy plastic/foam tape filter mount on the newer models, you may get some pretty abrasive dust past that pos.

Coupe you obviously have nothing of any value to contribute to this problem and ironroller, you don't seem capable of contributing anything. Both of you, it's OK, you really don't have to know it all. The only thing either of you has contributed to is the bad rep that BHQ is getting all over the other forums. The fact is, boomadge is right; water is definitely atomizing when it hits the prefilter and clearly vaporizing at some point in the 2-stroke process since it's not being spit out of the exhaust. Every related function that I can come up with checks out (and and no one else has suggest any others). I have to assume at this point, that there is some sort of phenomena going on that no one on here can explain. The lean behavior has clearly been isolated to water (vapor?) being ingested through the carbs, we can be sure that the water is displacing air and the air-fuel mixture has to be getting richer. Air flow also has to be further restricted by the wet filter and we all agree that this should cause a rich condition. After that, something is happening that we just don't understand. Oh well, the next time I get my hands on another two stroke for a little while, you can bet your ass i'll be spraying water into the filter just to see what happens. In the mean-time, don't get 'em wet

Yeah, I use it too but didn't know how many used the View New... I actually set an RSS feed and get it posted right to my browser. But figured what the hell, one more shot wouldn't hurt.