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Hey Chad Thanks!, Yeah they're a big help. The deflection in my chain is definitely more extreme. Had to work today so I didn't get to thank you right away. Thanks again bro. Now I gotta contact TMD and get them to exchange it for a simple slider. Guess that'll have to wait for monday.

Big Thanks! I really appreciate it. This is the deflection I see in mine, actually a little more severe b/c the thickness of the chain means the travel through the guide is gonna be higher than I showed. If yours looks the same as mine, I'll try running the chain through it. Don't want to get it greasy if I'm gonna send it back

Yeah, I thought that was too much deflection as well. And as I said above, I tried the stock guide off my original swinger and it fit just perfect. Definitely not the swing arm. Did that too. Even used the word "tensioner" to descrie the deflection to the guy and he said "yeah that's how it should fit" then he continued on about how it has to be that way to accommodate all the different skid plate possibilities, blah blah blah. Dude just never stopped talking. I'm pretty good about hearing someone out but that got ridiculous. from the sound of him, they get a lot of calls on this part. He did say that if the roller goes, he'd give me two to replace it. Got the TMD case saver and front swing arm guide too. Great stuff with no problems. That's the only reason I haven't sent the thing back (yet). Your post is much appreciated. BIG thanks! Could you try to get a more straight on shot of the guide from the side. If your tire is in the way, maybe one from the rear looking up the chain? I'd really appreciate it. I'm just not comfortable with how my chain will wear in the environment I ride in - lots of rocks and the mud's like grinding paste That's why I'm spending so much on this protective gear and the swing arm upgrade (it's stock length). I def don't wanna get stuck miles into the woods.

Is he still riding a banshee? I hope I'm able to handle it at that age. Hell I hope to live to that age.

Swing arm's good. I just put the old chain guide on this new swinger and it lines up perfectly. Exactly the way it did on the old swing arm.

Here's the web page. It does say for banshee and aftermarket swingers with standard banshee spacing... http://www.tmdesignworks.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_184&products_id=333

Thanks for that pic Spurdy. Yeah that's how I'd expect the slider version to look/work and I can understand some deflection using a roller - after all, they are round and not flat, but this just looks too extreme. Anyone have experience with this chain guide?

That looks friggin sweat! I'd love to see how shee stands with the shocks in the top pos. on the a-arms

PM Sent. Yeah I spoke to someone at TMD and he assured me this was OK for the roller type guide. He hadn't seen a picture though and I'm not convinced. I like their stuff, it's top notch but looking at the turn the chain's gonna have to take passing through the roller is not sitting right with me. The mount on the swingarm is definitely not bent, but it looks like there's quite a lot of room to make that roller lower. Has anyone else tried these rollers before?

Another question re. converting my stock swingarm to a stocklength Lonestar swingarm with double-row round house style bearing carrier. I got the bearing carrier used and had brand new bearings and seals installed. After hanging the swingarm on the frame and trying to mount the brake caliper, I found that the caliper bracket is quite a bit thinner than the stock bracket. To get the caliper to sit where it belongs, I'm gonna have to fill the gap (see pic). I don't like the idea of stacking washers up. Any suggestions? Has anyone bought a carrier (new) that came with spacers? What brand is it?

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of converting my stock swingarm to a stocklength Lonestar swingarm with double-row round house style bearing carrier. I got this TM Designworks chain guide rt with a single roller and put it on the swinger. My concern is the height of the roller relative to the sprocket (41T). The location means the chain is going to have to go through a serious path disruption (sort of like a chain tensioner). Is this right ? I know TMD makes top notch stuff but how long should i expect this roller to hold up if this is correct?

Glad to help! It's nice to see another mid-lifer on a banshee

Not sure why you cant see the pics. Here they are in a nutshell. It helps to know what's in there. Good luck! The hole on the right has a helicoil in it.

Not sure why you cant see the pics. Here they are in a nutshell. It helps to know what's in there. Good luck! The hole on the right has a helicoil in it.

When I got my banshee, the previous owner brilliantly welded on the footpeg. I had to replace the front thread completely and was able to helicoil the back. It turns out the lug nuts are the same size thread (M10-1.0 i think, double check me on that) as the footpeg. Here's how I fixed it ... (with pics) http://www.exriders....threadid=441146 There was a member on here who had a small lathe. He cut off the threaded surface completely and turned a large piece of round stock, large enough to fit into the frame at the rear hole. It had a lip thick enough to replace the frame ends he cut off and he drilled and tapped a new hole into the center for the pegs then welded it in place. Very definitely better than the stock frame. But not much good if your problem is the front hole. Mine's holding up perfectly and I ride on my feet all the time on very rocky trails. I jump moderately too. Hope this helps.

This is an awesome thread and thanks for taking the time to share your work. I don't know what it is with this site? It isn't Banshee owners in general, I'm on several forums and you never see this kind of S#!t talkin on any of them. Yeah there's always some, but by-and-large most people just try to help out a fellow rider. I think some of these people actually mean well with their "suggestions" but some just love to be a real big I'm dying to see what this looks/handles like when you get it set up for summer. Keep the posts coming!

Don't know what domes were on there to begin with or what altitude you're at but with the cold weather, 19cc domes and no airbox, you should probably start your mains at 340 and then do a plug chop. You're probably gonna need bigger pilots too; like 30's possibly? If you've already got 27.5's start with those but if you gotta close 'em down to less than 1 - a 1/2 turn open, then go to 30's The "Banshee Digital Tool Kit" (it's pinned in the Jetting and Exhaust Forum on here) ought to put you close and on the rich (safe) side, but i'd never call it exact. Don't think Carved Art (the member who wrote it) would either but it's an awesome resource Whatever a Yooper is? Good Luck

Hope you're planning on re-jet that thing or you'll be buyin an new top end too - just lookin out for ya bro

I'm at 1000 ft elevation with 65mm pistons and stock stroke. I had 146 psi compression with the 22cc domes (stock equiv) but I only run 93 pump fuel. x2 on the Clymer's Manual, it'll be the best $30 you ever invest on your new toy I'd also start off conservative with and go with zero timing advance for starters. Good luck!

Once you get that right, you'll have to readjust your air bleed screws or even change your pilot jets. Just remember, If you lean your needles you'll prob need to using the choke to get it started, use the choke to keep it running while you adjust the air screws (in) equally to keep it running. If you get to less than a turn open, you'll have to go up to #30 pilots. Check my sig, I'm pretty close to your set-up, the Vito's needles have six notches instead of 5 and I'm just on the lean side of center.

ditto If the plugs are right with 360's then leave 'em. The mains overlap the midrange quite a bit. You've seen the mid get better by leaning it with the 340 mains, You definitley need to raise your clip and lean your mid range out a little. Since you're getting the plugs for a jetting run anyway, use the limit screw on the throttle lever and turn it in so you can only open to 1/2 throttle and do your jetting run to check your needles. Same process, you're just limiting the throttle to the mid is all. Once you get that right, you'll have to readjust your air bleed screw or even change your pilot jets, but this can usually be figured out with a little help from the choke .

My riding is similar, if your doing hill climbs though, you'll wanna put a longer swing arm on there. Otherwise stay stock length for mixed terrain. I love my works triple rate shocks with remote rezzies. Smooth the rocky trails right out for a reasonable cost if you can pick up a pair used. I have a pair of works dual rate that need a rebuild if you want them, you can have em for $110 shipped. MattSCSS is doing rebuild specials right now that will def. make that worth your while ($400 shocks for about $225). Smaller front sprocket unnecessary, the extra low end you'll get from shaving the head (~.030 i think) and timing advance will do that and not really sacrifice any top end and you won't constantly be shifting. The exhaust is a must and be sure to rejet after each of these mods or that engine wont last you a month. Best of luck to you and happy riding

Thanks! try again

I need a round carrier. thanks anyway.

Hey guys, I'm looking for a stock length swinger with roundhouse carrier. I'm not looking for bling, just a good solid swinger with a round carrier housing and skidplate tabs. I'll send paypal instantly it you've got a good picture.