muggzy

I'm working on getting out to Trevorton before the summer ends, Is that the Coal Hill 8-17 trip you mentioned on another thread?

Is this outside of Pittsburgh? Got an address or coordinates for Google maps?

Welcome to Banshee HQ MadHatter, It's funny I just had a Cheshire cat avatar that I changed a couple of days ago on some other sites: Anyway, it's too bad you're so far away, I'm down state (~40 miles NW of NYC) I'd love to meet some people in the tri-state area to ride with.

Welcome to the world of Banshees! Where do you and your BF ride? I'm in Orange Co. NY and looking for some people to ride with.

I'm sure you're right, your experience is far more extensive than mine. I'm just having a hard time accepting that adjusting the slides so finely that you can't see the difference can have such a significant effect on performance. OR if you can see the diff. it's just compensating for a difference or a problem somewhere else. It makes sense that it will affect the idle way more than WOT. I mean just thinking about it; a 0.5mm diff on a 2mm opening (~ at idle) is 25% of the opening, and at WOT 0.5mm on a 25mm opening is 2% . So a 0.1mm (barely noticeable) at idle might be as much as 5% and yeah, we all know 5% is usually noticeable. OK it makes sense , thanks!

My idle is smooth and even, starts easily and pulls pretty good and I've never noticed one cylinder running hotter than another. But I'll likely invest in a tool soon b/c I think it could possibly have better power in the low end. My real surprise is that you guys are telling me that the performance (at low throttle) is so sensitive to extremely minor differences in slide position. I still say that if using the tool results in a visibly noticeable difference in the slides, then you're compensating for something elsewhere in the engine. Possibly as simple as air screw adjustments or as bad as a leak somewhere else. Since I don't have the tool yet, I don't know what the procedure to using it is, so the rest is pure speculation. But has anyone ever tried to adjust the air screws base on the tool? As I think about it, if the slides are being finely adjusted and assuming the rest of the engine checks out on compression and leak-down tests, then isn't it possible that adjusting the air screws is where the adjustment ought to be?

Hey carvedart, Great info as always. Thanks for the reply.

I was just sitting there, staring at the thing for a while with the chain ends one tooth apart on the rear sprocket when it hit me. I can just get a rear sprocket with one less tooth. I got a 41 on there now, I can just pick up a 40 tooth sprocket and problem solved And what the hell, One less tooth on the rear will give me back a tiny bit of top end speed.

If you're running with your jets a little rich already, it might be OK but as soon as you start increasing the air flow through the engine, you're leaning things up and I wouldn't want to risk my engine for a few street creds with your friend.

Hey People, I recently put a new Marshall O-ring chain and new sprockets on my Banshee. The stock length (104 link) chain left me with the chain adjusters screwed most of the way in. After a little riding and some normal new-chain stretch, I had to screw the adjuster screws all the way down and the chain was still a little loose. Today, I finally got around to shortening the chain a link but when I tried to put it back on, the chain won't reach. The carrier is ALL the way forward but I still need a half a link to get the master link on. I've heard of offset links that give you a "half link" but can't find any for O-ring chains. Any suggestions?

Seriously? In a disaster situation? You'll want a 4-stroke utility ATV, not a two stroke sport ATV. One thing to SERIOUSLY consider if you're if you're seriously gonna use this for a disaster situation; The last thing you'll want to worry about is correctly pre-mixing your fuel. You'll take fuel when and where you can get it. As for fluids to change, you keep a single oil change worth of crankcase and transmission oil on hand and change it the first chance you get following the disaster and then forget about it, for a year if necessary. keeping a couple of quarts of 2-cycle oil on hand may last you a couple of days, a week maybe and then what? You don't say how long you're planning for but if you think about Katrina, a couple of months is very conceivable. As much as I love my Banshee, it's got NO PLACE to carry anything even with my six-pack rack. Ever try to follow a smart ass on grizzly with a Banshee? The first thing they do is head for deep mud or water to see if they can make you flood your engine.

Here's another one; how about a ratchet strap (or 2) tied to your grab bar or in a six pack rack? I go riding alone once in a while and have put myself in a difficult position a time or two. The straps make a cheap light weight come-along that I already have on my trailer.

Welcome to BHQ! And congratulations on the new Banshee! Yeah you should have 6 gears and you might have a key still wired (i found mine zip tied under the radiator cover). I made a bracket and moved it under my seat right behind my gas tank so I could still use it . DEFINITELY check out your jetting, even if it seems to be running well. Especially since you're not familiar with the Banshee. Good Times!

OK, so a couple of you say it helped but did you look at the carb slides before and after you adjusted? was there a noticable difference? What is the tool actually measuring. If it's compensating for some imbalance somewhere else, it may be masking another problem. I'd just like to know more about it.

I just sent a PM to F.A.S.T. who sells a sync tool. Hey, I started a thread about carb syncing with a tool; We'd love to get your input. Especially helpful might be, what is the parameter that this tool is measuring? Hopefully we'll get some good input from them

Hey Gr, I'm really curious, can you see a difference in the slides when you look down the carb throats after syncing with the tool? I'd find it hard to believe that the slides are THAT sensitive that you'd notice little or know difference (we'd be talking a c-hair here). If you can notice a difference, then it would seem to me that they're compensating for some inconsistency somewhere else in the engine? I'm not trying to be critical at all, just trying to understand. George

Oh yeah, since you're running rich you'll likely need to open your air screws when you adjust them. Again, look for the directions to do this in the jetting section of the digital tool kit.

Basically the pilot jets cover the first quarter of throttle, the needle covers 2nd and 3rd quarters (middle half) and the Mains cover the top quarter of throttle. That being said, there is A LOT of overlap. I don't know how the Vito's "custom" needle compares to the stock needle. But since that's what you've got and the risk is to the rich side go for it; try the 30 pilots with the Vito's needles and 300 mains. Follow the instructions in your digital tool kit to do a plug chop and let us know what happens

Basically the pilot jets cover the first quarter of throttle, the needle covers 2nd and 3rd quarters (middle half) and the Mains cover the top quarter of throttle. That being said, there is A LOT of overlap. I don't know how the Vito's "custom" needle compares to the stock needle. But since that's what you've got and the risk is to the rich side go for it; try the 30 pilots with the Vito's needles and 300 mains. Follow the instructions in your digital tool kit to do a plug chop and let us know what happens

A stock Banshee is pretty easy to kick start. My slightly overbored 360cc Banshee is easier to kick than the 200 cc Blaster I'm rebuilding by A LOT! You gotta remember that the banshee's really two 175cc cylinders spread over the range of kick so it's gonna tend to be easier. A compression test is also a really good idea though.

A good cleaning is a real good idea. At that altitude you could be running rich too but not so much that it won't run. Let us know how the cleaning works.

Hey All, I sync my carbs by looking down my carb throats and making sure that the slides bottom out at exactly the same time. Then I watch the slides as I slowly squeeze the thottle to ensure that they open exactly evenly and finish at exactly the same point. I've found this to be way more accurate than using the port holes on the carb bodies (which by the way always confirm my method). Is there a reason they'd need to be differently balanced in order to compensate for other imbalances elsewhere in the engine? I guess I'm wondering why people find it necessary to using a "synchronizing tool" like the one that's been available through this site?

OK, I'm going to assume you have the jets set as suggested; 27.5 pilots and 300 mains There are NO Pilot or Main jet screws. There is only an air mixture screw for the 1st quarter of throttle these should be gently seated and then opened 1.5T NOTE: This is an AIR MIXTURE SCREW on each carb. Opening it will be LEANER, closing it RICHER. If there's a TORS eliminator kit on your bike (no bulky box on top of each carb), you may have Idle adjustment screws on the outside of each carb. Download and read the first page of this "tool kit" put together by CarvedArt, one of the the members on this site: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133410&view=&hl=BansheeDigitalToolkit_v1zip&fromsearch=1 Good Luck

OK, you probably ought to start at the beginning... Make sure you still got a spark. Dumb question but have you tried using the choke to get it started? You mentioned "dealer recommended" did you get this from a dealer? I know the manuals say 24:1 and you didn't say what type of 2-cycle oil but I'm pretty sure my son blew his motor using cheap oil at 24:1. I've been using Super M synthetic blend @ 32:1 for over a year now and haven't blown my engine yet (knock on wood). I think I can pretty safely say NO ONE on this forum is running 24:1. When I started I was doing the same thing; following the manual and I was a little apprehensive about going against the manual but... List all the mods you know of - intake to exhaust, your altitude and temp where you are riding and someone on here (I'll try) should be able to put you in the ball park with your jets. Since you just got it, I'm assuming you don't know any history (where it was operated, jet sizes, etc.) Good Luck, we'll try to help.