muggzy

Be sure to use a synthetic or semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil. I use Maxima SuperM at 32:1 (4ozs/gal) and I've recently found out another benefit of the stuff - it doesn't separate in the cold . I was told that oils that do should have a warning on the bottle but...? Anyway, don't use that cheap stuff from Home Depot or Walmart. And Welcome to BHQ!

I can't comment on the Haynes since I've never seen one but the Clymers manual is very good. I recommend it to anyone - new or experienced

Yeah, I'm not sure I understand all this exactly. I've got a Blaster too and there is no dipstick on 'em. The tranny oil goes into a fill cap that looks like any other fill cap, but there's no dipstick attached to it. There's this little window on the lower rear end of the engine on the right side - it sucks 'cause you can never really tell if your oil is getting low unless it's cold and been sitting a while and you use a flashlight to look at it. Best to just drain and refill the damn thing often.

Check this DIY out: The guy did it for his wife's small hands on her Honda(?) but it could work for any situation. Really clean simple way to customize your own. Check out the Before and after pics at the end http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=370765&highlight=wifes+thumb+throttle

That sounds really tempting. Too bad WY is such a long drive, or I'd take you up on it. You know what it's like trying to track down previous owners? In my case, the guy before me was really helpful and tracked down the guy before him for me even though he'd long since moved out of his parents home. If he hadn't...

Geico

I wish NY was that easy. There's several forms to fill out showing history of ownership that must be signed by the previous TWO owners or previous owner with one year minimum possession an then it's still up to the office manager at the Motor vehicle site where you're trying to register whether or not they'll grant you a temporary registration (title) while the "hold period" runs it's course to see if anyone reports it stolen of in case a lean search comes back positive. I'm going through it right now with another quad I just restored and it's absurd.

Perfectly put.

Here ya go. Just got these off of CL - Not to say they'll get what they're asking but... http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/mcy/2130162617.html http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/bar/2113266480.html http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/rvs/2114588666.html http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/mcy/2108763136.html No title: http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/rvs/2127580361.html So for my next purchase, I plan on doing some driving

Bingo. A 2005-06 Banshee like that, with title in my area is gonna run you ~3000. Without the title, it'll probably get parted out. NY Sate SUCKS! Prices will fluctuate with the seasons as well. I'm curious. What's he asking?

Thanks for that confirm banshee#14, I was getting a little nervous there.

Hey Midlife, You probably have LOTS more cold weather riding experience than I do but this is the first I've ever heard of synthetics breaking down in cold weather. The Maxima Super M that I use is a synthetic blend and I've been using it for several years without trouble. The local shop I go to doesn't use anything else. Can you support this? I've never heard of it before and Klotz, a full synthetic that's very popular on this site, is highly recommended for snowmobiles.

Any time Bowen. '05 is pretty new, that'd be pretty sweet. Good Luck

Sounds like someone who doesn't know what their doing. A built banshee with everything pushed to the limits will of course require constant tinkering. A conservatively built banshee that is properly jetted and fed a quality fuel/synth oil mixture will be VERY reliable and pure fun. Look for a bike that is visibly clean and well maintained, with no more than bolt-on mods (pipes, reeds, air filter, airbox drilled, if cool heads with no less than 22cc domes...) No advance on the timing. Put it up on a milk crate under the frame/engine to get the wheels off the ground and check for play in the swing arm bearings, rear axle bearings, and front a-arm bushings. Get a $20-30 compression tester and look for compression in the +120 range and equal or nearly so on both cylinders (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Check the brakes and look for fluid leaks wherever anything goes in/out of the crankcase. Check the frame for signs of bending or welded repairs. For all of this it should run in the $2500 - $3500 range. Adjust for any problems and your comfort level in fixing them. Once you get it home you are going to want to either jet it yourself (or have a reliable shop do it) to make sure it's right for your conditions; elevation above sea level, air temp and existing mods. This is true for ANY two stroke anything. Treat it conservatively and set the jetting a hair on the rich side. Use fresh high octane pump fuel and a synthetic or semisynthetic two stroke oil only (I use Maxima Super M) mixed 32:1 - 4ozs/gal. The only tinkering you'll have to do is adjust the jets in the spring and fall for summer/winter conditions (main jet ~2 sizes larger in winter) and regular maintenance like cleaning the air filter and changing tranny oil. It's not too hard to do with some help from a Clymer's manual and the people on this forum. Keep it conservative and your banshee will last you forever with minimal tinkering.

Use the "Tool kit" that Carvedart made for excel: http://www.4shared.com/dir/JGdLyFR1/Banshee_Digital_Toolkit.html It's got lots of cool stuff you can calculate like max speed for different sprocket set-ups, Jetting ball parks - they're way high for my set-up but that's better than the other extreme isn't it? Anyway, it's pretty cool to play with.

If it's not too far to drive, you could try showing up with all your documentation in hand and paying them a visit. Get the local police involved on the basis that they DID steal your property. If it's too far, you could try calling them and pretending that you're a news person as suggested above (try the real thing first both local to you and local to the scum bags) but your an office person setting up itinerary for so-and-so (use a real reporter or news segment name). Good luck

two questions, are they 4 x 115 bolt pattern? I know the "10x10" is 10in. diam. 10in. wide but I don't know what the "5+5 offset" is. Looking at the top view picture the weld seam (mounting surface) appears to be in the center so forgive my ignorance but what does "5+5" offset mean?

Hey people, I'm looking for a replacement filter that'll go into the stock air box. I've got a K&N in there now but the seal between the filter and the front of the air box is the same as the stock seal and they both suck - it's just a piece of foam that gets pushed out of place every time you install the filter. Anyone know of a more reliable filter/seal setup that works in the box? I want to keep the box to keep mud and water away from my intake.

It's been running on a rebuild for 2 seasons now. The K&N has been on there for most of that. No problems. I've taken the carbs off several times for the reeds, cleaning, rejetting ... and haven't found any dirt in there. So far, so good. I do use K&N's filter spray and cleaner and clean it frequently though. Like I said sometimes after a single day. I will say that I'm definitley not happy with the foam seal between the filter and the air box at the carb end though. But that's not a K&N thing, it's anything you put in that air box that conforms with the stock fit. Someone mentioned twinair and I was wondering if the filter mounts on the stock support frame or does it come with one? If anyone knows, I'd love to hear about it/see it

There's no question here, your fix is MUCH stronger than stock and if mine fails, I'll be doing it with the insert like you did. Nice job

Got mine at Home Depot - Black anodized finish.

I'm running with a stock air box and a K&N stock replacement filter and I'll have to say that I do have to clean and re-oil it after a day of dusty riding b/c it clogs up so bad I'm running heavily rich by the end of the day. I was thinking about trying something else but when you think about it, the filter IS doing it's job. I also have an Outerwears prefilter over the top of the air box, but this is to deflect mud and water when I hit a puddle at any good speed. That has definitely caused problems. btw, you'll need to drill out the top of your stock air box and not just toss it b/c it holds the filter in place. We don't actually remove the top. I'm actually using a "stretchy book cover" that I got in the dollar store for a pre-filter right now b/c it covers the snorkel opening and the drilled holes down the top of my air box (Outerwears doesn't cover the snorkel opening). I can post up some pics if you need.

Be careful, brass is NOT the way to go. While it is not going to oxidize, it is very soft and will wear quickly. If you're going to make your own, go with carbon impregnated bronze. It's much harder and "self lubricating". The reason Delrin bushings are so cheap is b/c their so easy to manufacture, the raw material actually costs more than bronze. There's a reason it's become so popular for bushings and that's because of it's cost and wear properties (think Teflon on steroids). Despite what some say, you should not lubricate it, you'll only provide a place for the grime to stick to and make grinding paste. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8905519 Abstract Delrin acetal resin, a product of DuPont, is formed from the polymerization of formaldehyde. The tightly interlocked helical molecules and high crystallinity result in excellent mechanical properties. Its superiority in tensile strength, stiffness, creep resistance, and fatigue classify it as an "engineering resin', a term used for plastics which can compete with metals in many applications. One of the important characteristics separating Delrin from other engineering plastics such as polyamides (nylons) is its very low water absorption and the small effect of aqueous solutions on its properties.

Nice job. My foot peg was welded to the frame when I got it and I finally cut it off and repaired it this past summer. In case you're interested in what's under that front peg hole you can scroll down through the pics I posted on this other site: http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=441146 I used a helicoil on the rear and build up and filed down the front until I had enough surface to support the peg. So far, it's holding up great.