muggzy

Wondering if anyone has experienced this; I have a stock airbox with the top drilled out, K&N filter with pro flo adapter and outerwear prefilter covering the holes on top of the airbox. When hit a puddle, the spash sometimes hits the outerwears cover and the engine races and wont shut off with the kill switch. Choke will kill it.

Damn. I'd love to get in on this but memorial day WE is out for me. Maybe we can do it again in July or August !?!

Yeah, that right carb's air screw is a bitch to adjust while the engine is running, even with a long screw driver it tends to vibrate of the screw. But adjusting 1/8 turn at a time with the engine running is the only way to hear the diff and you may want to keep a pad nearby to keep track of the number of adjustments you make.

I think i said this in a previous post but remember, the air screws are opposite what you may be used to on a four stroke. Closing them makes it richer and opening makes it leaner. You won't affect your upper end at all by adjusting them. Don't forget, if you close those screws more than a full turn, you'll have to got to the next size up (#30) pilot jets. Glad to help Oh, yeah the pics in the Clymer's manual are pretty good.

Go back and look at your orig thread

They are very close and you may not be able to see the dif. Do the numbers on the sides confirm the sizes? And have you synchronized your carbs? I suggest you get a Banshee Clymer's manual. it's the best $30 you"ll ever spend. If anyone acts like it's beneath them/you, Fuk em. It'll give you pic-by-pic steps to do this and many other things. Pilot jets control the Low 1/4 throttle range, needle clip controls the middle 1/2, and the main does the top 1/4 (there's significant overlap) but it sounds like most of your bottom range is off. (25's are def too small for your mods and altitude) OK, did you set your air screws to 1.5 turns out from the bottom? I'm guessing you should tweek them in from there 1/8th of a turn at-a-time each to start (richer) b/c you're mains are 310's but if it gets worse or no better (in the bottom 1/4 range of throttle), go the other way to get really good Idle and off-idle response. To get to the needle clips, you need to take the slides out of the carb tops. Inside the slides, you'll see two small Phillips head screws, remove them and remove the retainer bracket and you'll be able to lift out the needle. Gently lift the needle out of the slide. Move the C-clip down one position from the blunt end (pos. 4) and then put it all back. If you had to go leaner (out) on the air screws, then you should probably go UP a notch on the clip (leaner). You may actually be too rich on the main and may have to go down to 290 or even 280 jets. You can (should) actually do plug chops in each range. But most only do the hi range. Again, get the Clymer's manual. Muggzy

Im interested in wheels. What have you got?

I guess it all depends on what you're used to. But I still haven't heard anything that can't be solved by "riding on your feet not your seat"

on the 27.5's and drop your needle clips one notch to 4th pos down from the top (richer). You can get pilot jets off of ebay or from Jets-r-us: http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_mikuni_VM22-210_pilot.htm Get the #27.5's and set your air screws to 1.5 turns out from the bottom. Adjust them 1/8th of a turn each (at-a-time) to get an nice even idle. If you need to turn them back in more than a full turn, go to #30 pilots and start over with the air screws again. Once you've got it idling really nice, your off-idle to mid needs to be adjusted by the needle clips. Ideally, you should do a mid-range plug chop but if the 27.5's work out for you, your clip position (4) is probably close enough, but you can try pos. 5 (even richer mid) depending on which way you had to go with the air bleeds ( remember out is leaner and in is richer) if you had to go in close to a full turn, you probably NEED to go to position 5 on your clips. etc... You should also be able to squeeze your throttle really slowly from off-idle to mid with no "Gaps" in the response. Above all, BE PATIENT it may take you 1/2 a day to get it right. Lower altitude means DENSER air so you need more fuel (bigger jets) to compensate. At 5000 ft., you probably don't need 27.5's

PM Sent

You're welcome to come up any time man. I love to have people to ride with Hope I saved you some green. I know how the addiction goes, that's why this forum is so great: you can always bounce shit off of people

You're welcome to come up any time man. Hope I saved you some green. I know how the addiction goes, that's why this forum is so great: you can always bounce shit off of ppl but you still gotta do your own thinkin

Just my 2 cents for what it's worth. From what I remember, you're riding mostly trails. Unless you're planning on some flat-tracking or MX on a groomed track, why would you wanna go to 18 inch wheels with the mods you've got? You should have TONS of low end torque with 21cc domes and the timing advance and 18's will drop your already low ground clearance another whole inch. That doesn't sound like much but wait 'til you smack a few extra rocks, roots or stumps. And why do you want to stretch your swing arm? Tight spots and dead end trails are gonna SUCK! +4 is great for dunes and hill climbs, but I don't think you'll like it too much in the woods; remember, reverse on a Banshee means you get off and drag your shit backwards by the grab bar. Put some time on those mods and see how they work for ya first. There's a lot of ppl on here reselling their mistakes on ebay. Just my humble opinion, hope I'm not outa line.

TORS ?

Where are you located?

It's not the state. It's the mods, elevation and air temperature. Lower elevation and temps both mean denser air and require larger jets to compensate. Adjust your jets accordingly.

Thanks gofast, I'm feelin pretty stupid right now . best I can figure is the drop-down next to the search window was set for "This forum" and I was in another part of the site when I did the search. Thanks again bro

Hey guys, I'm trying to find that how-to make your own leak-down tester thread and when I do a search, keep coming up empty. I even tried misspelling it (leek) and got two dead end links. anyone know where this thread is?

First, come back safe then start with 27.5 pilots, air screw at 1.5 turns out from the bottom, needle clips fourth down from the top (blunt end) and 280 mains. If your air box is drilled full of holes or (the lid removed) you might want to start at 300 on your mains. This should be safely rich and then you'll have to do plug chops to dial it in.

on the Pilots, (stock pilot, air screw 1/2 turn out) you're definitely too lean and maybe you're mains as well. You didn't say what your altitude is but the cold winter air is a LOT denser and needs bigger jets to compensate. Might want to start with 27.5's, needle clips one down from the middle (fourth from the blunt end), and 280 mains for winter riding. For summer riding, leave the pilots and needle alone (a little rich) and just drop your mains two sizes and tweak your air screws.

BE CAREFUL. Adjusting anything based on the smoke is DANGEROUS. You need to do a plug chop to be sure you're still not lean. Unless you're racing, plan on tuning on the rich side, your engine will last much longer. Technically you should do plug chops at just off idle, mid-throttle and WOT (you can use the screw on the front of the throttle lever to limit your range). Most people just tune the idle and mid-range by adjusting the air screws 1/8th turn at-a-time each (together) by ear; then the midrange by checking the response as you increase the throttle and making sure you get a smooth response; then only doing a plug chop at WOT. If you're worried about the difference, you should really do a leak-down test and then sync your carbs according to the service or Clymer's manual (but preferably with a sync tool from F.A.S.T.).

If you're jetted properly, and there's nothing wrong with your engine, then you should start right up with the throttle at idle (choke on when cold) and a couple of kicks.

The prob is the rubber bushing. It absorbs the shock of the hammer. Try to apply torque while tapping (Ok, pounding) the threaded end while repeatedly spraying with WD40. If that doesn't work cut hat bitch out of there.

You need to get yourself a set of #27.5 and a set of #30 pilots. Start with the 27.5's first and your pilots at 1.5 turns out from bottom. Adjust your air bleed screw 1/8 of a turn each at-a-time until your idle is good. Sounds like you should start screwing them IN first. If you need go in more than a full turn, then go to the 30's and start again at 1.5 T on the idle. Remember, the Idle screw is an air bleed, so if you go out you're getting leaner because you're opening the screw and mixing more air. If you go IN you're getting richer because you're closing the air off and getting richer. If you get more than a full turn in any direction, you need to step the jet down (leaner) or up (richer) accordingly. Also remember that if the air is cold it's DENSER so you need less air to maintain the same air/fuel ratio. You'll have to reduce the jet size in the summer for warmer air, so you should definitely be on the RICH side in the winter for your pilot jet so you can turn the screw out in the summer to compensate if necessary. Once you get it running more-or-less smoothly at idle, you should adjust your needle clip to get a smooth transition to off-idle to MID as you VERY slowly squeeze the throttle to middle. Right now it's VERY rich (you said the clip is closest to the needle end) , you might want to start in the middle. Then start with your mains something higher than SpecialEd's 310 (to be safe) and do a plug chop at WOT. If you really want to be perfectly jetted, then do plug chops at off-idle, middle and wide-open. Be conservative and jet for winter in the low and mid and you can leave them alone in the summer, just drop two sizes on the main in the summer (if your winter main jets are 310, then your summer mains should be something like 290 and you'll be safe. Hope this helps.

I had the same problem when I rebuilt my engine a couple of years ago and new to 2-strokes. It turned out that my jetting was off. Let us know exactly what you've got in there now - Pilot jet sizes, needle clip position and mains (nos are stamped on the jets) and what altitude and temp you're living in and what mods (exhaust, intake, etc) and we'll get you close.