muggzy

Pics gone, part's gone......... Thanks for looking

Stock flywheel - clean, no rust $65 shipped. If the pic's still up, I have it.

This lock-up side cover is powder coated with a Chrome Trinity Stage IV Cover. This is a new cover, it was never used due to the cosmetic defects: there's some voids in the PC job but not bad see pics. If the pics are up, I still have it. $110 shipped:

Access to your flywheel/timing or your sprocket w/out removing the whole side cover. and polished billet to boot. This left side engine cover has never been used (if the pic is up, I still have it.); $210 shipped.

Hey If I'm asking too much, make me a reasonable offer...

Like I said "If the picture is still up, the parts are still available." Seems to be a lot of people saying "yeah I'll take so and so" then don't come through with the paypal $$ btw, someone pointed out that there are studs missing from the case. This was true when the pic was taken but they will be installed before shipping. Guaranteed.

Like the title says, stock jugs never ported or ever even "cleaned up". Bore is at 65mm. $250

bump... This is good clean stuff guys. Maybe not spit shined but very clean, very usable parts.

PM sent

negative captain.if u got a 300 main in there thats the absolute most fuel u will get into the carb.raising the needle will richen the midrange NOT wfo.the only way to get the flow of a 310 is to put a 310 in there.so ur giving him info to help him check a wfo run with moving needle too.do not do that.keep adding main until u stutter at wfo.go the size below it.thats ur main.then u move needle clips as needed if u have a midrange issue. Sorry Captain you've misread what was said. Don't jump into a thread having only read the last post. I wasn't suggesting to tune WOT by moving the clip. I was merely explaining that there is a significant overlap from the needle height to the mains adjustment. IF your mains were adjusted perfectly and you richen your stock needles one notch down on the clip, you will have also affected the mains as if you had gone up one size in main jets. There is MORE overlap on these adjustments than most people on here realize. Of course richening the needles will richen the mid-range, that's their function. If you need to verify the overlap for yourself, then go ahead and do it - do a jetting run and check your plugs, then drop the clip one notch (richer) and do another plug chop, you'll see the same effect (or nearly so) on the plugs as if you'd gone up a size captain. Gikki44 that's good info. This will put you on the rich side of ideal for a nice, reliable jetting yet smooth throttle response - so long as the temp or your altitude doesn't increase significantly. You'll have to make this call yourself depending on your current conditions and what you expect in the future. For me, at the moment, this would be a good strategy b/c the temps are at about the max that we'll see in the north east (High 80's low 90's) Since I don't ride in drastically changing altitudes, right now would be a good time to use this strategy. As with everything you'll read on these forums, you'll have to apply some critical thinking to what you hear (read) and then intelligently apply it to your situation.

Hey Guys, I’m helping a friend unload some engine parts. All prices include shipping. If the pic is gone, then so is the part. Set of cylinders measured @ 66.2mm, ported for short track/trail by Don Jones. You PA guys will know the name – this is the guy that built the engine on the bike ridden by that girl who was winning every race about 5 yrs back. You can still see the cross hatching but they’re gonna need to be honed. $225: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head w/21cc domes (includes the acorn nuts shown in the pic above) and new o-ring set $160: VForce 3 Reeds and cages: $150 Set of all three above: $420 Clean case set, no chain whack, a little surface oxidation on the outside; $150 Stock clutch basket with adjuster (not shown) ; $60 Stock crankshaft and connecting rods: $115 Tranny with bearings: $115 Reed Spacers (5/16”) with screws: $20 Stock cross over tube: $15 I think the prices are reasonable but if anything is out of line, let me know.

No you're right but they'll give you a sense of how far too lean you are in mid and Idle circuits once you've got the mains right. You're VERY lean. You should be starting at 1.5 turns open from seated but if you get more than a full turn closed (richer) from there, you'll have to jump up to the next pilot jet size.

Did you check the plugs or just seat-of-the-pants it? If the plugs look right, or just a little lean, then definitely drop the clip a notch, actually you've got nothing to lose but you gotta be careful and don't fall into the trap of changing too many things at once. Nice thing about the clips is they're easier/quicker to adjust than the jets :-) You might wanna try the Vito's needles, they have six positions for a more gradual adjustment at least. Not sure how the taper compares to stock though, I really need to get off my ass and look that up.

That plumbing elbow is probably the reason he doesn't suffer the problem. If its got the same width for it's entire length, I really wanna see some pics. The foam filter is also a good idea, some say it's better where water is concerned but I haven't tried it. I put an outerwears prefilter on my K&N too when i made all those other changes if I didn't mention it. I wouldn't "clean" that black off, it's supposed to be there and I believe it's teflon coating put on at the factory, his is all worn off. If you do feel you need to take it off, I wouldn't do it with a wheel. I'd find a more gentle way to do it - maybe by hand with some 000 steel wool?

I can't explain the relationship to the gear your in, may have something to do with the load on the engine but there's definitely some overlap in the carb circuits. If you raise the needles/drop the clips 1 notch (richer), it'll richen your WOT as if you went up one size on the mains also. In other words if your mains were 300's and you move the clips down one notch, your plug chop will then look like you had 310's in there which is a pretty small change. Prior to the 21cc domes I just put in, I had a very similar set up (I'm surprised that the domes had such a big effect on the jetting and I still have to go bigger on my mains, anyway...) Pro Circuit Platinums, K&N filter w/lid on and no snorkle, VF3 reeds and sock carbs at the same altitude. I was at 280 mains, clips 4th down from the top (one notch richer than center) and 27.5 pilots w/screws 1.5 T also. The characteristics of the pipe will affect the results too, I don't recall if the T5's are a high or mid-lo pipe but if it's a "top end" pipe, you're gonna breath harder at the top than I did and need bigger main jets etc... (the Pro Circuit is considered broad range).

2.5 turns out (lean) on the 30's suggests you ought to be able to run the 27.5's turned in some (richer) from 1.5 turns. This would make the 27.5 even leaner! Sounds like you're getting frustrated and changing too many things at once. First I gotta ask are the air bleed screws at 2 or 2.5? You might wanna try going back to the 27.5's (leaner) and drop your needle clips back to pos 4 from the top (richer). The overlap from the needles should richen your idle circuit and the 27.5's ought to work for you at about 1 - 1.5 Turns out. I've been told that if you use your throttle limit screw (up on the handle bars) to limit your throttle range to 1/2 throttle, and then you do a plug chop, your plugs should look like they would when you do the pug chop run at WOT (assuming you've got the needles right). I asked a friend who owns his own performance ATV shop about this and he didn't think so. I'm gonna test this out myself though, b/c my understanding is that reading the plugs is a measure of how clean/efficient your combustion is burning and so I would think that this half-throttle plug chop should work same as it does at WOT. Next Saturday is the next time the stars align and I'll be able to go out and spend a few hours playing with my jetting. Once really I'm close, and I should be already, I'm gonna try it and adjust based on what the plugs tell me. I'll let you know what happens. After all, the needle clips are the easiest of the three circuits to adjust anyway. IROC, sorry we kinda jacked this thread .

If your airbox is dry as I think you've said, I'm not so sure you would see anything. The water is misting and you'd also have to take your filter off or use some sore of really small camera or bore scope. Fixing these securely so they dont end up stuck in your carb throat would take some serious work. You might wanna lift the slides out of the bike that doesn't have this problem and compare them to the slides in your carb. Get pictures if your friend will let you do it. Also, get pictures of the guy's input set up compared to yours as well. I'd be really interested in seeing that stuff.

Some kind of glitch on the forum wouldn't let me edit the reply so... I'm really close too, but right now my last jetting run said I should be a little richer on my mains. Once I get the mains dialed in better (310 or 320), I'll know if I should move the needle clip back up a notch (leaner) and go up to #30 pilots (richer). I'm at ~1000 ft altitude and the temp here is running in the 80s. Since I like to ride well into the fall, and I jet for reliability rather than every in-lb of torque, I'll definitely be looking to set it up on the rich side. Probably wont get to do it until after this weekend though. And maybe not until next Sat.

Yeah, it'll be interesting to compare. What's your set up like now?

PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a pair. We all seem to agree that the water on the filters should cause a rich or "choked" condition. That won't change no matter what carb you're running. But at least part of the issue is the stock slides sticking when they're wet. There seems to be some other runaway situation that's also related and that we also believe is related to the stock carbs. I'm still working on my jetting since I put in the 21cc domes and I've considered going to the #30 pilots. There's considerable overlap in the carb circuits so going richer or leaner on the needle will also affect the pilot and main jetting. For instance, if your mains are perfect and lets say 300's and you move the clips down a notch (richer) on stock needles, you'll be a size too rich on the mains (which I prefer anyway) so you'd have to drop the mains to 290's to keep your WOT jetting the same. I'll try and remember to update you but I wont get to touch my jetting for several days at least.

That looks pretty sweet! A friend of mine, Jodie Guaragna modded a Banshee engine for a guy with a prosthetic leg so that the shifter came out the right side of the case somehow. The guy lives and rides in Rockland County, NY and is pretty well known of around here. I run into people from time to time the like to say "Hey I saw this guy riding .... " and I get to say yeah I know the guy that did the work I just never got to see it myself

I just ordered a pair of "Shorty" ATV boots. They're about half to 2/3 height of regular MX boots. Anyone ever regret not having full height boots?

We beat this horse to death a few months ago. I don't think it's electrical, the behavior (especially blipping the throttle) doesn't seem to support it. In my case, my filter was definitely getting wet. I intentionally sprayed it with water from a spray bottle and could reproduce the problem pretty much at-will. Even though your air box is "dry", I wouldn't be so sure you're not sucking the mist right through - these things are breathing pretty hard. I've since done a few things and haven't suffered the problem since, but i have hit an occasional puddle pretty hard recently: 1) Thanks to a good friend, I replaced my drilled out air box lid with an unmodified one and removed the snorkel (I think you already said that this is what you're running) 2) I put an outerwear prefilter over my K & N stock style filter to help shed some of the water that might get in there. 3) I generally avoid mud and water (but this isn't always possible) and usually take them slow when I do. 4) I made some carb spring centering spacers out of ABS plastic in a 3D printer. They hold the springs dead center in the replacement carb caps and compress the spring slightly adding a little more force (maybe not even significant) to help close the slides without limiting WOT. It always bugged me that the inside of the replacement caps didn't have those little centering tabs that the caps on the TORS caps had and therefore there's nothing to ensure the springs sit exactly straight in the cap and in fact could be pretty cocked up in the carb tops. In addition to guaranteeing the springs are centered, they add a small amount of compression to the springs as well. Now I can't say that these have fixed my problem, especially in light of the fact that I made all of the above changes at once. Nor have I gone back and tried to recreat the probelm with a spay bottle again (I'll see if I can later in the week). But last couple of times out, I hit some unavoidable puddles pretty hard and didn't experience the problem. It's also possible that I didn't hit them hard enough, or often enough but I did take a really thorough soaking myself to the point that I'm pretty sure I would have experienced the problem as I had in the past. If you want to try the spacers/centering guides, let me know your addr and I'll send you couple. The only thing I'll ask is that you get back to me and let me know if there's any improvement. Even better if they're the ONLY mod you make - just to try and isolate any potential improvement. Oh, and just to add to what Jereme6655 said; I also make damn sure the throttle cable ends are well seated and the little rubber boots are pulled down over the tops of the adjusting nuts. AND best of all "...... OR.... you can keep your banshee out of water. Its a 2wd higher speed SPORT quad......not a utility..... it would be like asking why a corvette isn't handling driving down logging roads so great. or asking why you don't see cement trucks racing on road courses." But we both know this won't stop us from trying. Some of the people I ride with (also riding sport quads) can't believe some of the shit I do in the woods with my Banshee