muggzy

You can also check the output on the stator to make sure you're getting a correct ohm measurement. There's a table in the Clymers manual and also somewhere on this site with the numbers you should get. The other common element is the switch on the handlebars itself.

You're gonna give up a LOT of throttle response. Not a big deal if you run WOT all the time though

That is one beautiful repair job and I thought mine was clean. Did you have that insert machined or is it something off the shelf (with mods?) I see that cad dwg but I gotta ask to be sure. And ditto on the short piece?

PM Sent

So do you want to sell it or pawn it?

Uhmmm, yeah. What is your compression? Did you just add those fattys and filters?

A big X2 on the Transmission fluid AND the Clymer's manual. If your fluid is shitty b/c of a leaky seal or just plain old or cheap, that could do it. Also, the cable adjustment on the clutch lever might not be adjusted for free play properly. The Clymer's manual is the best $30 investment I've ever made on my Banshee and it's a great place to keep notes about your mods and jetting

Hey Thanks for the reminder to Google it I found this video and some pretty nice graphics in invisionpowersports.com http://www.invisionpowersports.com/video/Installation.html

Hey fastquad, Help a brotha out. I was just on Rocky Mountain ATV and couldn't find graphix for my Banshee or Blaster. Can you give me a link? Or if any of you site sponsors have graphix kits to offer, I'd love a link to yours. Thanks Muggzy

Hey Easy03, I think Special Ed ( JK man I couldn't resist) and I were assuming you got those wet plugs under the right conditions. If you look at my sig., I'm at a slightly lower elevation than you (900ft), but you said a "very small" filter and wet plugs. You should be a notch above where I'm at on your mains jetting. See my sig. (I just switched to my winter jetting mains = 300) If you go with 27.5 pilots, needle clips in the 4th position and 310 mains this time of year, all you'll need to do when the weather warms up is drop your mains to 290 for the summer and tweak your air bleed screws open 1/4 turn. Do a plug chop to confirm but I guarantee you'll be right on the doorstep - maybe a hair rich (that's a good thing).

I have a trailer with open "diamond grate" on the floor. I put a tie-down strap over the wheel and ratchet it in nice and tight. Then I put a 16" adjustable wrench I have on the outer nut and stand on the end of the wrench. The trailer floor bites the tire tread so it cant turn and it's always worked for me the 3-4 times I've had to deal with that nut. I put them on the same way and haven't used locktite or had one loosen up on me ever.

You can try raising the clips on the needles a notch or two (this would be positions 2 or 1 counting down from the top of the needles). The air bleeder screws wont have much effect going from mid to high throttle. The needle controls the middle and has significant overlap into the high (and low) ranges. You may need to richen your bleeder screws to compensate for the leaner needle settings.

I just re-read your first post and your specs in your sig. You're at sea-level, I'm at 900ft, we have VERY similar set-ups where it matters for jetting. Put 27.5 pilots in there, needle clip on pos. 4 and leave the 280s where they are for now. Start with the bleeder screws at 1.5T and simply try tweaking the bleeders equally 1/8th of a turn at a time and until any off idle bog goes away. Then give them another 1/8th turn in the same direction for good measure. If you have to go more than 1 full turn open, move the clip back to position 3. More than a full turn closed, go to #30 pilots. Either way, start over with the bleeders at 1.5 T. Remember the overlap? If your needle clips ended up in a leaner position than your original, you'll have to go richer one size on your mains to keep that coffee brown, If the clips went richer, you may want to go down a size. Once you've got that done, go back and re-do a plug-chop to make sure your high end is still where it should be. Lmk how it works for you. Oh! All this assumes your reeds are in decent shape. They supposedly don't affect jetting too much but they do have some effect and they very definitely affect throttle response.

The needle has a predominant impact on the mid-range of the throttle. BUT, it also will affect the bottom and top, there is A LOT of overlap. As an example, one needle clip position down will have the effect of richening the pilot and main one size richer as well. So if you have a perfect plug chop with 280 mains and the clip in the middle (position 3 counted down from the top), and then you drop the clip to position 4, you will likely have to change the mains to 270's to keep the high end perfect. Likewise for the pilot. BUT, you can turn the bleed screws out to lean the low end or drop a size on the pilots and vise-versa. The reason that the needle is often ignored, is b/c of that over lap. If your needle is a notch too lean, it can be compensated by making the pilots and mains each richer. Try going 1 notch with your needle, not two. Remember to count down from the top when you mention the clip position and higher numbers will be richer. If the direction you choose worsens your transition, then go one notch the other way and get back to us with the results.

It's not the TORS. It wouldn't idle at all. Could need re-jetting, might want to talk to the shop where you bought it to see what jets are in the thing (probably stock). But the temp and elevation will affect what they should be.

I've got 280 mains in mine and have 27.5 pilots with the needle clip on position 4 (richer mid). When the weather gets really cold I just switch the mains to 300 and I'm good for the winter. Oh, my elevation is ~900ft.

Get a Clymer's manual. It'll be the best $30 you'll ever spend. It's got pics and specs and everything you could possible want.

Hi Guys, I need a 20" brake line for my rear brakes with banjo connectors. Anyone got one lying around?

Watch that manual it's only a "Supplementary" manual and needs the previous manual to be complete. Definitely get yourself a Clymer's manual. It's the easiest to follow and will give you a place to keep notes.

Hey Blastngo, welcome. I'm over on Blaster forum too (same user name). as far as the pics, post them to photobucket then paste links to them here. Just like over on BF. You don't say whether or not you've got the TORS boxes still on there but they'd be the first suspect. You can simply disconnect the TORS control unit to see if that's it. Under the forward left side of the gas tank.

Is your elevation the same as the guy you bought it off of? Sounds like it you just got it and it could be running really lean or really rich. I had similar symptoms when I soaked my air filters by riding through a few muddy puddles. Not that you did but the racing RPMs and failure to idle could indicate that your jets (pilots or mains or both) are really off. Were the boots on the throttle cables both pushed all the way down to seal against air leaks? If it wasn't for the erratic running and just dies at idle, I'd have to go with the TORS box questioned in the last post.

Another test you can do is put a milk crate (or similar sized box) under the middle of your frame to get the rear wheels off the ground but not interfere with the swing arm. Then grab the rear wheels in both hands and try to twist them side to side, you'll see a much smaller problem this way. Another thing to look for is a missing lower chain roller. If it's not there, and you do the ratchet strap test AK describes above, the chain will get tighter as you pull the rear up with the ratchet strap. There's definitely something wrong that needs to be found before you continue riding.

"Dumb Fast" or dumb assed?

Tensil strength is a measure of the quality of the steal used in the chain. If you compare two identically worn chains (not really possible, but hypothetically) the one with the higher tensil strength is less likely to break and whack your case.

idk, I put it in the Drag forum.