muggzy

Is that from experience with The Swingarm Shop or b/c of the site sponsors? I'm all for supporting our guys but it's worth asking.

Anybody have any experience with the swingarm shop products on eBay? I'm looking for a +2 wRound carrier and skid plate brackets like this; http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=370814519581&alt=web Your opinions are appreciated, Thx Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hey Starwriter, Thanks! Especially the info on the VIN, I was wondering how to handle that. I did a search on frame tabs and the link you gave me obviously didn't come up. Nice list on there, some I hadn't thought of. Thanks again!

Hey I just got a new frame and will be keeping stock plastics and headlights. What tabs do you recommend that I could grind off?

I've got pro circuit platinum and pwk28's with 20cc domes now, but my bottom ends not great. I definitely can't wheely without hitting it hard. Any suggestions? It was also ported before I got it but don't know any particulars Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

You mentioned that you changed the exhaust and upped your jets to 260's. These sound a little too small and could cause the problems you're describing. Don't know what all else you have done to your motor, but usually pipes are gonna need 27.5 pilots and 280 or 290 mains. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

I mostly ride in the woods with a lot of muddy trails and sometimes water. With the pro-flo adapter, there isn't a better set up for my conditions unless I go to a custom airbox and what's the point? We're talking about the intake side of the carbs, you can't do a leak-down test there. Finally, an intelligent answer. Any specific ones in mind? The existing rubber is completely pliable but stretched so much the stock hose clamps won't fit anymore and the rubber pops off as soon as you let go unless you clamp it while holding it - not good. My concern is that bouncing around under there over time, they'll start to tear like the intake boots do on the other side of the carbs when the TORS boxes or "boost bottles" are left on for a long time. If what you say is true about aftermarket boots, I'm gonna have to find a better alternative.

Hey Guys, I was just installing my new set of PWK 28's with a stock airbox and the rubbers between the airbox and the rubbers are stretched a little tighter than I'd like on the intake side of the carb. does anyone make a replacement set of rubber adapters for the PWK 28's ?

Looking for a steering stabilizer, preferably adjustable. Wrists can't take the beating on the trails anymore. Pics and price please.

Amazing, a guy can obviously buy stuff from any number of places, tries to be loyal to sponsors (small though it may be this time) to support an otherwise excellent site. He apologizes to the sponsors for a poorly worded thread title and clearly didn't intend to offend them. Yet a small number of small-minded people choose to respond with the most ill-bred responses instead of simply ignoring the error or helping their favorite sponsor by posting up their name. Amazing that the site can function at all when so many people use other forums b/c they'll only come here when they have no other options. All those people on those other forums simply google what they need, go to ebay or drive a few miles and get it elsewhere rather than ask a simple question on here because there's a few people on BHQ that feel better about themselves by talkin trash. Amazing Respond if you makes you feel better. I've got no time for small minded people. L8tr

My apologies for the thread title. Anyone that knows me on here knows that's not what I'm about. Fact is yeah, I can get the line in a lot of places but I am trying to patronize and support our sponsors. I was just tired and I guess frustrated that it wasn't a quick thing to look up. So could I have been a little more tactful in the approach? Sure. But the sponsors have a better sense of what us members need and it's simple to add to their banners on the home page.

Thanks bro

Yeah, I know how to follow a link and I know how to use a phone. It's taken me 3 mos. to get my shit back together 'cause I don't have more than an hour or two at a time hear or there to do what I need to do to it. The last thing I need is to have to wade through a dozen web sites just to find the right one. So I asked figuring the one that does carry/make/distribute brake lines would pipe up or one of the decent, helpful fellow riders that actually try to contribute to this site might have a productive answer. If you don't wanna make a constructive contribution to the site stfu my friend.

Middle of adjustment usable range is basically 1-1/2 turns. Open is leaner, it's an air bleed screw.

Check the table near the bottom of this page: http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm It's for a fresh build but it'll give you a basis for comparison. Stock heads are comparable to 22cc domes.

Mix your fuel with a high quality semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil at 32:1. Many full synths. separate out in cold weather.

Wow, sorry guys. That was supposed to have been a "preview post" not sure how that double post happened

So I'm nearly finished installing my roundhouse carrier, stock length Lonestar swing arm with a Modquad dual row bearing carrier (got it all used). The brake bracket positions the caliper at the 12 o'clock position to the axle and the stock brake line appears to be about 6" too long now. I'm estimating that the replacement line should be about 18". Can anyone tell me if this will work well or suggest something better? Problem is, I came up with the 18" by laying the stock line in place but the carrier is rotated up for the shortest length chain and the swing arm hasn't been compressed, so is there a better length than what 'm estimating? Also, what sponsors carry brake lines? Thanks Muggzy

Hey gang, I'm looking for an 18" banjo connector brake line. Started at the homepage so I could see what sponsors might make/sell them and there's only a few that actually list what they do in their banners. Can I get someone to point me to the right sponsor(s)?

Mixed terrain trails is all I have to ride on and while I'd love to bling my banshee, I won't b/c you just can't keep that much chrome that clean. It gets a plastics-off top to bottom cleaning about 2-3 times a year. I polish the wheels and chrome and toothbrush every nook and cranny, and it looks great especially in pics, but even though not cracked, my plastics have taken a bit of a beating. Get a full set of Armadillo skid plates, a cheap set of plastics and a power washer. You can do a real nice job cleaning it up in about an hour+ Then make sure you ride long enough to make the hour of cleanup worth it I get lot's of compliments and stopped by people asking all kinds of questions about it and I still get to enjoy riding it. I haven't said much more than anyone else but really what's the point of having it if you won't ride it?

Mixed terrain trails is all I have to ride on and while I'd love to bling my banshee, I won't b/c you just can't keep that much chrome that clean. It gets a plastics-off top to bottom cleaning about 2-3 times a year. I polish the wheels and chrome and toothbrush every nook and cranny, and it looks great especially in pics, but even though not cracked, my plastics have taken a bit of a beating. I haven't said much more than anyone else but really what's the point of having it if you won't ride it? Get a full set of Armadillo skid plates, a cheap set of plastics and a power washer. You can do a real nice job cleaning it up in about an hour+ Then make sure you ride long enough to make the hour of cleanup worth it

I've got some VERY CLEAN yellow ones, make me a reasonable offer for them. I can get you a better pic if you're interested

Yeah, take another 2mm from each carb body.

I feel like a perv watching someone else's wife get undressed. Looks sweet!

Bingo! The red slider looks closer to the sprocket than Chad's white one so the chain's got to bend harder to get around to the sprocket. I've been thinking about drilling a new pair of holes in the slider; one straight behind the front one and the second behind and a little higher than the back one to bring the roller forward and down a bit. The only reason for the hesitation is that it bugs me. A $45 slider ought to fit. The alternative is to return the roller for a slider which (i believe) isn't as high at the point where the chain goes over the roller. As I said in a previous post, the stock slider off my original swinger lines up perfectly. Oh well if I drill, I'll post before and after pics. Will let you know tomorrow...