firebanshee

Do you have the balance tube hooked up that goes between the carbs ?

Long rod ALOT more reliable,don't go short rod it will break piston skirts. The long rod gives you a better working angle on the crank.Short rods will rev alittle quicker but i don't think it is worth it i use to run a short rod crank now i run long rods.

I am an auto mechanic and diesel mechanic. I work at fleet services for the city of Eugene Oregon were i work on everthing from weed eaters to fire trucks, and ambulances and everything in between. Right now i am in the middle of building 25 new cop cars were we wire in all the lights and everthing else that makes a cop car,plus it is fun to test drive them. I am glad i have a union governmet job it is pretty stalble.I did go to school for mechanics so i guess it paid off.

Did you check your reeds ?

.080=66mil

Take your bowls off your carbs and take the jets out and look for a number on it :cool:

The lenght of your swing arm also depends on your paddle selection.

I think you would have trouble gettin the gearing right in the R-1 also, that seems to be a problem i have seen with those kinds of transplants.

I think my duneable override was one of the BEST mods i have done to my bike.

I am no porting expert by any means, but i have raised my exhaust 2mils and my transfers 1 mil and it worked pretty good for a backyard port job. Not as good as a cylinder that has been mapped out and set up professionally though.

You could do a compression test just to see if there is an issue there.

Hard to beat the way the T-5s sound and perform. :cool:

I have seen blue pipes before they looked pretty wild. It was a satin blue.

Stroke it, you will like it :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

I think getting your crank welded is extremely important, and getting a TZ bearing isn't a bad idea, and a big hell yea to the water pump impeller. I would also do the shift star mod and i like to grind out the shift shaft were the stud sicks through it were the spring is so you don't break that stud off when you are slamming gears you just take some of the metal of and widen that window out a little. And i would replace the spark plug boots, the resistors go bad alot in the stock ones.

Looks good to me if they match your jugs. :cool:

Pods and T-5s you will need 330 main and 27.5 pilot and middle cip on needle and about 1.5 on air screw should be close down to about 50s for temp. I run pods and good outer wears on one of my bikes for that kind of riding i just slow down through puddles but you do have to be careful. :cool:

I refill my bike after 30 min of hard riding :biggrin: :biggrin:

NO! You set your bike up right with 2 carbs you can have the best of both worlds.

A stock head has 24cc domes. :cool:

I would get a syringe and cc the domes and see were you are at. :cool:

It looks to me like it is that black plastic piece by the brake light switch is what is making the noise.Have you tried to stop it from moving and see if the noise goes away?

I have deglazed my steels with sand paper or a finishing pad on my die grinder and it worked good. Do you have and override trans? Lockups make your bike shift hard without an override. Have you tried heavy springs in your clutch? and also if you use the wrong gear oil it can make your clutch slip. I like type F trans fluid it has anti slip agents built into it.

I would pull the carbs apart and check the pilots to see if they are plugged, and clean the rest of the carbs and use alot of compressed air to blow them out. It doesn't take a very big piece of debri to plug the jets.

Plus oof pipes look cool and that is very important :biggrin: :cool: