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STIMULATE

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    2009 YFZ350

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  1. The movement appears to be coming from within the dust / seal caps on the arm. It's almost as if the spacers that it came with aren't quite big enough? When the arm is bolted to the frame, the sleeve inside the arm touches the dust cap on the each end of the arm. The spacers the arms came with are between the dust cap and the delrin busing. This is where the play seems to be. So when I torque up the arms to the frame, it's torquing against the inside sleeve in the a-arm. So whilst it seems to be in the snug, if I grab the arm and move it towards the front and rear of the bike, it seems to slide up the inside sleeve and stop, this is what's causing the "knock". If I can stop the arm moving the tiniest bit, it should stop the noise. Would it be ok to use a small washer on each end to fix this up? It looks like we're only talking about 1mm of play but I really don't want to take it out for a ride until it's all 110% snug. I hope this makes sense!
  2. Arms didn't come with any bolts, so I'm using the stock ones.
  3. Just to clarify - the play in the upper arms seems to be side to side - not up and down.
  4. Hi people, Recently bought new LSR +2+1 arms as well as Fox Float X for my shee. Fitted everything up and all went well - but, it seems the upper arms don't fit quite snug? The supplied bushes and spacers have been fitted but you can still grab the arm and move it back and forth? Am I doing something wrong, is this a common problem or do I need to order some new bushes? The bottom arms are sweet, it's just the top arms. The play/movement in the upper arms is so bad that when you turn the bike, you can feel the arms knock. Please help - Any advice is greatly appreciated! Cheers!
  5. Hi there, Was hoping to get a bit of help in regards to jetting my 2009 Banshee. It is bone stock apart from the following: - Toomey T6 Pipes. - Pro Design flange with K&N Filter with Outerwear. - No Airbox lid or K&N Airbox Lid (Depending on weather). Bike always runs 95+ Octane fuel. Ratio is always 40:1. Bike is located in Australia so it usually see's temperatures around 10-35degrees Celsius (50-95 degrees Fahrenheit). Bike is ridden at sea level. Would a 280 main be fine? Do I need to use the aftermarket needles in the Toomey or DynoJet Kits? (I have access to both kits), or will the stock needle be fine? Any help is greatly appreciated. Really looking forward to getting this thing back together! Cheers!
  6. Thanks for the advice guys!! Flywheel has been checked 3 times now and nothing appears out of the ordinary. No play at all! I do have good news though I guess... I have definately isolated the sound. It is this little bastard.... Whilst replicating the sound, I put one end of my screw driver onto the end of the shift shaft (outlined in the pic), and it was very very loud. - When I put a bit of weight on the lever (as in shifting down and holding it down), it shuts it up. - When I grab the lever and pull it upwards (as in shifting up and holding it up), it shuts it up. - If I pull the lever side to side, or if I hold it still, it knocks. So whatever it is, it's being caused by this stupid shift shaft thing. Maybe I got a shit shaft that hasn't been machined to the correct tolerances and thus is knocking in the case or something? Who knows! Whatever it is though, it's definately coming from this thing. Now I spose I have three options: Option 1 - Take it to the dickhead dealers who clearly have no phucking idea. End of the day, an apprentice who has absolutely no idea will probably work on it. To give them a bit of credit though, you can't replicate the noise unless you ride it and ride it HARD! Sitting on blocks in a workshop running it through the gears doesn't work. We've tried this. If only everyone had a dyno!! Option 2 - Buy a new shift shaft kit from somewhere and attempt to do it myself. Can't be that hard I guess? Option 3 - Ride the fucker into the ground and wait for something to happen. The old "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" routine. On another note though - big thanks for everyone who has added their 2cents. It is greatly appreciated and has been a huge help!
  7. Everything (without cracking the motor open) has been checked. So I've been told anyway. Yamaha are adamant that there is nothing wrong with it. The engine anyway. After doing a bit of digging around though, it seems to be the gear lever, shift cam or something along those lines. If I kick the shifter up or down, and keep my foot on it, the noise is gone. I can see the shift shaft/cam move a in and out a bit when revving... probably 1-2mm. I need to emphasise that it is not the gear lever itself that is rattling. It is the shaft that it is connected to. Could this be the problem?
  8. OK... took the bike to the local Yamaha Dealer here. Pulled the bike apart, stator cover, clutch cover, exhausts off and checked inside both cylinders with a bore scope etc. All seems to be fine and he could not fault it. He made a note with Yamaha so if anything adverse happens with it relating to this issue, it will get sorted out under warranty. Anyway - I was happy with that! Got home and went for a ride, and would you believe it I found this stupid noise! Once it's nice and hot, the rattle begins - so as a last ditch effort I put my foot on the gear shifter/lever, put a bit of weight on it and GONE! Give it a bit of a revv and it appears that I've isolated the sound. Thing is, the shifter itself is on really tight and is not loose at all. Could it be the shaft that it is connected to? This would explain why I could hear it on the other side (kickstart side).
  9. Haha small world! It's Dan. Aka [bANNED] who used to own the GT-R. Nice looking ute there mate! I just recently sold my STi and bought an SS Ute because I had visions of buying a bike. How things change! Did some more riding today. Pulled the left side of the motor off and couldn't find anything. Had a feeling it may have been the gear lever as it sounds as if it's from that end of the bike. Also tried the kickstart, so I tore a bit of that apart too and it wasn't louder at all. Long story short - I've come to the conclusion that it isn't internal. Spent a bit of time tearing it apart and none of the noises got louder. Almost sounds as if its coming from in and around where the carbies are? So I tore all of the plastics off. Removed the airbox etc. Unfortunately couldn't isolate it so I left it be. It just doesn't want to be found! I'm just going to try and make it looser/louder and hopefully make it someone elses problem when I take it in for mods! Game on.
  10. Ok just took water cover off. Definately not the water pump. Sound is coming from behind the kickstarter somewhere!
  11. Changed the oil. Didn't really make much difference at all. Like I said before though, if I let it idle and let it get hot, it won't make the noise. I have to give it 3-4 squirts of 300m sprints for it to become audible. It sounds like it's coming from the kickstarter area, but even if I hold the kickstart, it still does rattles? From Queensland mate. Formerly Perth. This isn't YTRY4 from PPCC fame is it? Tried that - but couldn't exactly isolate where it was coming from. It does sound like it's coming from the Kickstarter area though? Need to emphasise that it only does it when really hot. When I took it in for the dealer to look at, he didn't seem to fussed because it really didn't make the sound that loud. The only option I had was to cut skids down the street and risk being arrested LOL. I didn't do this, and thus the bike didn't get hot enough to make the noise. Where is this cover mate? I will give this a try. Will coolant spill everywhere if I do this?
  12. Have checked all the plastic bits etc. None of that appears to be causing the rattle What was weird though.... I let it idle for ages today to get it up to operating temp. Funny enough.... the noise isn't there?? WTF! However: After I give it 3-4 hard runs of 300m sprints the noise is there. So it's almost as if the box gets to a certain temp and it starts to rattle. My money is on the kicker gear or something inside there somewhere. The service manager checked to see if the kicker gear was disengaging and it was so go figure I guess. Maybe try a different box oil? Oil is very odd. It is clear and very thin!? Bike shop down the road has a wall full of Motul stuff. I've had nothing but good experiences with that stuff. Oh well - time to beat the living shit out of it and see what happens from here. All in all very happy with the bike, even if it does make some odd noises.
  13. Just got back from the dealer. The service manager said not to worry about it. Mentioned that most banshees are rattly and noisey by nature and said nothing seemed out of the ordinary. He also explained that over time as the bike loosens up, it will rattle it's head off. He said if I was concerned about the rattle, just ride it like I stole it and try and break it. That way it's easier to find and fix LOL. Catch is, I have to do it in under 90 days!
  14. Ok so if it is this kicker gear.... will it be an issue if I continue to ride it? It doesn't appear to have an adverse affect on the bike.... it is just annoying!! I was a little concerned that the rattle may have been something more serious..... crank/rod etc. Phew!
  15. Yeah the paper clip looking thing looks to be apart of the rear brake assembly / switch for the rear brake light. Just got back from checking the brake lines/cables. They move around but don't appear to be making the sounds. Also made sure all the bolts are tight n all. All is good on that front. Just very odd how it doesn't do it cold, only when hot. Also - is it quite normal for these bikes to have a bit of transmission noise when cold? Operating temp it appears to be fine/relatively quiet. But when cold, it sounds like a straight cut / dog box some friends of mine have put in WRXs/GTRs etc. Sounds nuts! This stuff is just a bit hard for me to gauge whether or not it is normal. This is my first 'Shee!
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