firebanshee

I removed the raised section on my Vforce 2s.

A lockup clutch can make it harder to shift your bike unless you have an override trans, it makes it harder to realease your clutch to shift because you have to fight against the counter weights when your motor is revved up.

What fuel do you want to run? What elevation are you at?

Looks good to me, i always leave my fuel off, you never know when a float could hang up or a piece of crap could get in the needle. You could also put a little inline fuel filter on your bike.

ATF

I can't tell you this is your entire problem but the stock plastic ones are open ended on the impeller fins and don't move near the coolant as the aftermarket ones do. Put foam sticky tape around the outside of your radiator so it goes between your rad shroud and your rad. This forces ALL the air to go through your rad instead of around it. Air will take the path of least resistance. My buddy had a new bashee and after alot of hard riding it would spit coolant and after the foam trick no more spitting coolant.

Put it back together and fix the carbs and run it. Do you shut your fuel off when your bike is sitting?

If you take a little nut that fits over the pin that sticks through the side link and squeeze it with pliers making sure to have the pliers on the backside of the pin that you have the nut on and squeeze it together, go back and forth until the side link is in place. If you don't have the pliers on the backside of the pin then it can slightly push the pin in and then you can't get the side link down far enough to get the groove exposed to get the side clip in.

Do you have the stock plastic water pump impeller?

oops! my bad

I have cut .090 off, you cut on each side of the magnets on the outside edge. I have seen guys cut, .110. You can make your bike bog and it makes it easier to fall out of the pipe with this mod. But your motor does rev up quicker. For woods riding they make heavier flywheels.

Shouldn't be any major jetting changes, maybe just some fine tuning.

I ran a 18cc dome on a 68mil bore on methanol and rattled plugs loose. 21cc dome pumps 180psi on my cub, so if you want more than 180psi then try a 20cc dome. My dome angle for a blaster piston is 10deg. Sounds like you are after alot of compression for your set up. That will give you killer bottom end but sacrifice on the top end.

On my 4mil cub motor when i had it on the dyno the clutch would start slipping at about 80hp, i had a lockup clutch on it, clutches and steels were new, turned out to be a worn pressure plate.

Thanks for all the great input, redline also told me the same thing, probalbly don't need it but what if. I guess you have to pay to play, i think he said they are around $250. I plan on running the shit out of this thing so i guess it would be fairly cheap insurance. Can't wait till this thing is done.

I am in the process of putting together a drag bike with a 535 10mil cheetah on alky, it should be in the 140+ horespower range. I will be running 300ft sand-dirt drags, do i need to spend the money on a billet 2nd gear?

Well, when you make BIG power you need stronger welds and GOOD bearings.

It's a 4mil stroke, and the cylinder has been decked and ported. If you have to much compression then the motor has to fight against itself and does not allow the motor to rev up as far or as quickly.

Don't run a spacer plate. Just have the domes cut 2mm(.080). If you run a spacer it will throw off all the port timings. You say that the cylinder is allready ported, if they ported the cylinder out to far then you can't run a 4 mil crank on those cylinders because you will never get the port timings right. If it was just a mild port job then it should be ok.

I love my aluminum axle on the dunes. Alot better launch and your rear sprockets last ALOT longer.

You would be good with 21cc and +4 timing on 93 octane.

I see that you said your crank is stock, is it welded? it should be if not. 280 might be a little lean, i would def do a plug check. Might need a 290 or 300. If it runs good and plug looks good then your good

You could get 21cc domes and run 93 octane. What is your elevation it makes a BIG difference.

Larger domes lower your compression, that is why it makes it safer to run pump gas. 24cc is stock. Cool heads have interchangeable domes so you can change your compression, and they help your motor run cooler. Yes they are worth it. you can take of your head and change domes and reuse the orings if they still look good.