BenBB

Get the best one you can afford; Snap-on, Sears, etc. Also make sure it has the "long reach" 14mm thread to match the spark plugs. Got mine at Sears for $20-30.

65 Acres, nice!! Sounds good got1, have fun movin, heh.

That's just wrong man. If it woulda been nice-beaver.org I woulda really been pissed

I do think you need it, not sure if it's a "hot spot" or what but I would keep that line...and show us some pics when it's done!!

Dead on Dunedemon. There's always gonna be two sides of every story, and sometimes we will never know the whole truth. In this case I beleive the letter; one of my jobs is to look for Federal jobs for our company, over the last 6-8 months I've seen a TON of bids go out for "infastructure in Iraq" ranging from sanitation to public power.

ABM: "Silence of the Lambs" Here's an easy one: "it's better to burn out...than to fade away"

I got ya Lincster: "Aliens" and "The Matrix". Holyman: "Ace Ventura 2, Nature Calls" Dalegoldston: is that "Caddyshack"? or "Fletch"? I know it's a Chevy Chase quote... Here's one: (gunshot) "That's just MEAN!" OK that's not much to work with, also from same movie: "stop it, I'm gettin' all misty"

I get 'em for $2.50 a jet; mains or pilots for stock carbs (yes they know which pilots are the right ones): C&D Racing 308-696-7805

Yep, I got a couple Fatty burns, usually the boots protect me but not always. I got a cool forearm burn from reaching down to check the axle nuts, the ends of the silencers are a little toasty too...

I'm interested! Let me know what's fair; I'd pay $30 for it...

Right on loco, can't do much better than that; a win in every class you entered AND a new record, damn! Get some pics next time!!!

The stock uppers are weak, I bent two of them before I got Ricky Stators...

The two seals are pretty easy to replace; the shift shaft seal can be pried out with a small pick or screwdriver (just don't gouge the mounting area), you'll hafta pull off the stator cover, shift lever, and left footpeg. For the kickstarter seal you should be able to just remove the kicker from the shaft and pull the seal. Once you get them off you should be able to find them at a bearing store, the National part number for the shift shaft seal is 10x22x7 and the kickstarter is 20x30x5; those are also the metric dimensions for IDxODxCC. If you don't get OEM make sure they are rubberized (not just bare metal on the outside or mounting area), and if possible get a double lip seal. BTW have you changed to a different type of oil? My shift shaft leaked like crazy the first time I changed the oil, using 30W like the manual said. After that I've stuck with 80W90 and never had any leaks. Just curious, if you changed oils and the new stuff has more detergent or additives you might be doing the countershaft and even right crank seal soon...

When my stock CDI went out I got a Dyna FS, it was $240 compared to OEM for $318, and has worked perfectly. I would recommend the Dyna, but if you come across a good stock one for cheap I would consider that as well. BUT you kind of take your chances on electrical parts so I wouldn't get one from just any Joe Blow off ebay, I'd trust Minkia38 for a working used one...

Are you just tightening the preload? If so, I use the method banshee04le said with the hammer & punch: on the left side of the bike in the "V" of the frame & subframe there's enough room to get a large screwdriver and beat on the nuts to loosen the top and tighten the bottom (don't forget to retighten the top one). Hose the threads down with WD40 and the top of the spring where the top nut contacts it and you should be able to move it relatively easily, although it will take a while to even make one revolution. I hafta adjust the preload when I lower the rear end so I put a mark on the bottom nut and just make two turns. BTW I'll get a spanner one of these days, but it's at the bottom of a long list...

Heh, it's about that time of day over here XT:

Dammit, XTShee you musta been typing at the same time I was...

I completely agree with these guys; listen to boon, Banchetta and reas. At the very least you need to pull the jugs and inspect the crank, but you may still be looking at splitting the cases. A topend alone will set you back $220-$250 MINIMUM...sorry. The only thing I would add is: find the problem. Once you get the damage repaired, you gotta find out what it was that caused the meltdown so it doesn't happen again. If it was deto, your head may be shaved and may or may not have work done on the domes; at the very least you'll need to run higher octane fuel, and at best invest in a new coolhead. Good luck.

Superchicken, do the colors match at the CDI connectors? Like, on the wiring harness side are they the same as on the CDI side (of the Dyna; color and location)? Sounds like your electrical system is all fine except for the Dyna. I run a Dyna and have never had any problems, but it WILL try to run for a sec if you have the kill switch "off" (or key switch), kinda sounds like that's what yours is doing. BUT if it runs fine with the stocker, it could just be as Scott told you; a wire out of place in the connector. If so, it's very easy to remove the terminals from the connector and put 'em in the right location, you just need to use a small pick and push in the plastic tab that holds the terminal in place. The alternative may be that the box is bad (hope not). Good luck.

5-10 minutes, until my temp gauge reads at least 100F.

Nice work Jim, I like it.

Will it idle at all or not? Does it run with the old (stock) CDI correctly?

OMG bigwill!!!! That's the best damn thing I've seen since, well...

Proquad101 has one in the TT forum...

Bigwill-is your digi cam a Canon? If so and you got "E18" its sorta easy to take apart and clean, here's step-by-step photos: http://www.ixus-world.de/index.htm?tips/re...de/e18_01en.htm I just had to do this on a friend's...just a couple grains of sand is all it took.