BenBB

Second opinion, physical therapy...good luck man I've never heard of Raynaud's but I had never heard of RSD either (nerve disorder) until my wife got it after a "routine" surgery :verymad:

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :beer: locogato

Classic :biggrin: I like #1 LOL

:nuke: :tongue: or pork, or porn lol

I'd start with the stator, you can test it with an ohmmeter, chances are it's either the stator or CDI, especially if you just swapped motors and didn't do any wiring changes. Wiring is an outside possibility, if the black/white wire is grounded to the frame (or black wire) anywhere between the CDI and handlebar kill switch it'll tell the CDI not to fire. There's not a 100% way to test the CDI that I know of other than swapping in a new or known working one (and they ain't cheap). All the tests and values oughta be in the Electrical FAQ below, chasing electrical problems can be a pain but best I can offer is start with the simple things (plugs, switches, stator ohm reading, etc.), good luck.

Thanks 4stroker! I'll be watchin' for the ride report :cool:

You could either eliminate the key switch (with a jumper or splice) or relocate it; seen them mounted in the tank cover/radiator cover plastic and those billet mounts under the seat (between the two rear fuel tank bolts I believe).

Someone said the servo motor is the same for an R1...not sure what year but if anybody knows post it please (and WTF it does on an R1 I thought that was a 4-cyl 4-stroke). Zeeltronic has controllers & CDIs I believe, if you strike out elsewhere you might check them out (I can't say firsthand I haven't)...do you have the RZ stator/flywheel, rectifier, and battery/eliminator or are you running Banshee electricals?

I agree, front shox and the best you can afford even if you hafta wait 'til you have enough. The stabilizer helps in rocky/nasty ruts but not like the shocks will, just help you ride longer before ya wear out. Tires are hard to do without tho heh, is that the best price you could find? Didja try Rockymountainatv.com? The other stuff...depends on how important the bling is I guess, you could get damn near the same bang for alot less bucks shavin' the head and slotting your stock stator mounting holes (local machine shop charged me $30 for the head, I used a dremel to do the stator plate fer free, or a good excuse to buy more tools if you don't have one muahahaha!). Yeah yer prolly right...blasphemy, spend that shit!!

No shit?? I stand corrected thanks :thumbsup: LOL magz

Exactly. And most of the time you're better off finding a new/used one because you'll destroy the carb getting the tap out, I've never seen an extractor that'll touch a tap...you gotta be reaaaal careful with those little fuckers.

I'd go with those arms and the best (stock length) shocks you can afford...long travel just means that the shock stroke is longer, you don't actually gain any wheel travel it normally means the lower shock mount at the lower a-arm is placed farther outboard than the stock location. There are advantages there but IMO not significant, and especially at the premium you pay for the "LT" moniker.

I'm in :cool: Nice post time Twistedtrik haha :happy:

Hell yeah that's a stout looking swinger, take any pics yet??

I wouldn't worry about the spark every 10th kick, unless the key doesn't shut it down when it's running, more often the problem is NO spark. If you've removed the TORS carb tops all that's left is the control box on the frame rail above the left cylinder, unplug it and remove, and the switch on the clutch perch and throttle housing. Then you can either just tape off the connectors or cut the wires and tape them off. The only wire there that matters is black/white, that's the circuit the handlebar kill switch uses, when that wire grounds to black or the frame it will tell the CDI to shut down. If your handlebar kill switch stopped working after you removed the TORS, that black/white wire is cut somewhere between the CDI and the switch itself, to make it work right you'll have to trace it. Good luck.

:shrug:

I agree that yellow & black looks sweet :cool: I don't think the octane booster stuff is worth it either, you're better off with good quality fuel at the right octane, or good quality race fuel, or a 50/50 mix. Reason being, detonation does a lotta damage and I wouldn't wanna risk it with a cheap bottle of god knows what. You shouldn't need to rejet for the coolhead but it doesn't hurt to double check it. The Delta's will likely want a needle clip position adjustment and might want 30 pilots if you don't have them already. Good luck.

Yep mine ate that too, you can get a new bushing for the idler gear along with that washer & snap ring (got mine from FAST)...it left an impression in the clutch drive gear and was a good excuse to upgrade to a billet basket :biggrin:

Hey ptevo03, probably not gonna be alotta help because I haven't messed with Keihens much, but they aren't hugely different than Mikunis other than the needle being much more part of the equation...so best I could offer is go with what Iridea250R and Erwin8R suggested and try to dial them in one circuit at a time (mains, needles, pilots), you just might need to order a couple more needles to get it perfect (supposedly there's more overlap between needle & main so the needle taper, diameter, etc. are alot different, hence the JJM, JGM, etc. needle designations). These other guys can probably give way better advice though. Good luck.

I'll take a crack at it heh, I can at least offer some basics and others with more knowledge can elaborate or correct me... Ok pretty much any 2-stroke will benefit from advanced timing, higher compression, better reeds, pipes/air filter, and of course perfect (or close) jetting. Factories tend to sell them a little detuned so they don't A) blow up on the first ride and last longer. That said, the farther you modify it the less reliable it MAY be. 4 Degrees of timing advance, in general and especially Banshees, is a good compromise between more power across the powerband, and too much advance. Drag Banshees can get away with more, like 7 degrees, but most people don't push it that far on a trail machine. You can get there either with a degree key, adjustable timing plate, slot your stock timing plate, or with an aftermarket CDI. Slotting the stocker costs nothing... Higher compression, yes either shave the stock head or go with an aftermarket head with smaller domes. Know that the farther you shave or the smaller the dome, the higher octane fuel you're gonna need to run. Cheapest route is to pull the head (and the little spigot for the hose between the water pump/case and the head) and have a machine shop deck off .030" and slap it back on, run at least 91 octane and you're good to go with a good power boost throughout the powerband (mostly noticable in low RPM's). Go to .060" and you'll probably need to run a 50/50 mix of 91 and race fuel (others can translate that into dome size I dunno offhand). Reeds also make a pretty good difference, your choices there range from just aftermarket petals to full cages, usually with carbon fiber reeds. You can port your own reed cages and come close to the aftermarket ones with good reeds, opinions vary there on what are the best but generally V-Force Delta's are a good choice, although one of the most expensive. I've got Boyeson dual-stage on ported stock reeds on mine and stock cages with FMF torque reeds on my son's, both run nicely, if I had the bucks I'd get some Deltas. Alright pipes and filter you got covered, although the Pro Circuits are more of an all-around pipe and not a drag pipe, which is probably more what you're looking for anyway. Pipe opinions vary greatly as well, your best bet is to try to ride others (with the owner's permission of course heh) and see what you think, that or if you decide to do porting ask your builder to recommend a set. After that you're kind of looking at either porting or upgrading the suspension, just depends on which direction you want to go...

Right on good to hear you got a good ride in (finally heh). I've had my throttle stick wide open twice; once it was the little brass guide thing that the slot on the slide rides in (it was loose and I just had to put it back in and ding the aluminum), the other time was before I ran an in-line fuel filter and one of the strainers on the petcock fell off inside the tank allowing whatever was in there to get into the carb, a little piece of what looked like rubber lodged in the needle seat and wouldn't let the slide lower. And yeah it was a wild ride both times haha! Anyway you might look again and see if your filter or a smaller one will work, I think it's a good idea to run one but it ain't worth it if you have that dead cylinder prob heh. Good luck.

No hold the throttle wide open, gas & ignition "off", kick it hard & fast until the needle stops moving on the gauge...

I agree with Twistedtrik, I mean even if it IS something major, it ain't gonna cost THAT much to replace. I have one my son outgrew and it's hard to part with because it's a tough little bastard heh, like a pit bike (or a 50cc dirt bike compared to a 250cc) almost anybody can throw a leg over it and tool around. For $500 I'd look at it too, with a compression gauge and cash in hand...BTW I'm pretty sure the front wheel bolt pattern is the same but the rear isn't (unless the previous owner swapped the rear hubs, it's the same splines and you can actually swap a Banshee axle directly for the Blaster axle to gain 2", then use either Blaster or Banshee rear hubs).

Which idle screws are ya talking about, the airscrews or the TORS eliminated idle screw that raises the slide? All the way in on the airscrews is as rich as they go, normally they should be between a half turn and 3 turns out from lightly seated (not like torqued to hell, that could damage the pointy end of the screw), depending on how it idles and runs right off idle; in is richer out is leaner on those. If it's the idle screw on the side that hits the little ramp on the slide, sometimes not enough material is filed off the carb body when the TORS is eliminated, it could be that you need to file off some more so that those screws actually raise & lower the slide. Either way you need to fine tune both of those screws to get a clean idle and off-idle response...

Blowby with the old/worn setup maybe? Less exhaust loss (or whatever the hell the term is for the intake charge that goes out the pipe and gets drawn back in) with the stroker perhaps? Just guesses tho...