1qwkgoat

I bought my banshee from a friend and it is still registered in his name. Will I be required to have the registration on me when I go to appalachia bay. What about the OHV sticker. Do I have to have one of those. I've always rode on family and friends private land so I haven't ever bothered with this stuff. It's all new to me.

Hey is this Jarod? If so this is Chad from shawnee, I used to have the Black LS1 Trans am with the big cam and now a GTO. Not many of those 3000gts around, so I figured there's a good chance it's you.

The other day mine did the same thing. I noticed the left side did appearing to be "running" in the lower rpm's. Then it got to where it wouldn't idle at all. Mine turned out to be bad reeds, it wasn't making enough compression at the lower rpm's I guess.

Has it been ported? If so did the person possibly not know what they where doing?

Thanks for all the info. You wouldn't happen to have or know where I could get a wiring diagram for one. All I know about this one is that it started intermittently loosing spark, and it was parked. It has been well taken care of and is clean and in good condition. For the rear shock right now my girl friend doesn't go fast enough for it to really matter at least not on anything ruough. She's not on the real small side either at 5'7" and 130lbs. Is the spring on the banshee softer or just the adj. dampening? If so will jumping it with a banshee spring bottom it out then. I plan to ride it some, mostly for fun in the mud, and places I don't want to take the banshee. So it will fly at least a few times. How is thier center of gravity, should I look into widening it. I really don't want her to roll it and be scared of it from then on. I also wanted to find her a good nerf,peg, heel guard combo to help keep her feet off the ground.

Tomorrow I'm getting a 95 Warrior. That has a elctrical issue, I already bought a harness/cdi for it. I've seen in some other threads that some of you have some warrior parts laying around. I'm to sure what all I'll need, so let me know anything you have. It already has a pipe,filter, and jetted. I'm not looking to really make it any faster for now atleast. I would like to get a set of nerf bars on it. Any aftermarket stators or headlights. Any kind of good all around/mud tire for the rear of it. But let me know anything you have. I'm try to set this up so my girlfriend can have something that she can ride when me and my buddies go to the river. Right now she rides my 700raptor, but I'm wanting to get something she can call her's and is more her speed. Thats why I want her some good lights and some tires so she can get anywhere we without having try carry as speed as we might. So any suggestions as to how I may set this warrior up are welcome.

Thats what I always did to clean off the head gasket surfaces on my motors. But we used this stuff our local auto parts stores sells, we called it aviation stripper, and I think that all it said on the can. I guess it's a paint stripper for planes. Either way it will make a dirty old car block look almost brand new.

If you look at alot of cars these days. In the ducting they have going from the air filter to the throttle body. There is sometimes a tube looking piece coming off the the main tube and going several inches. This a silincer and cuts down the intake whine when on the throttle. To mean it seems ad if a boost bottle would do this. Does anybody run a shee without any type of balance tube.

Went through that last week. So I pulled both carbs and thourougly cleaned them. And low rpm's right now it doesn't sound right at all. I'm going to check the carbs again anyways while I'm waiting for reeds.

The air bleed screws are about 1.75 utrns out. The srews I'm refering to are the one's that raise the slides and they are all the way in. It has the carbs off a pre tors banshee, I assume the spots for the screw where part of the original casting on these carbs. The original owner worked at a dealership I imagine he just swapped them out. I think it's the reeds it has V force carbon fiber reeds that are at least 2 years old. I pulled them out today and you can see light through them, and in the corners you can tell where there has been some reversion happening. So anybody know where i can get some reed petals for some V froce cages. I think they are V force 2's not sure though

I just got my 2002 banshee running again. For some background I used to own this shee and sold it to a friend. It developed a electrical problem, turned out to be the key switch. It set for a year, I just bought it and got it running. It ran good for about 30 minutes then started having a idle problem.I had the carbs set by a well known banshee guy in my area, I trust they are right(I hope). The jetting is spot on plugs look great. Nothing was altered from when it used to run/idle perfect. Except for a adjustable plate set at +3. I swapped in Iridium plugs and it wont idle now, I took them out and it still wont idle. Once the rpm drops down to around idle speed the tone changes completely and gets a hollow sound no popping/tinging sound at all. Can barely feel air coming out the pipes with my hand 1in from them. It runs awesome mid and top end. Pulls very stronge for what it is. My question does this sound like bad reeds. It has V force reeds. My friend took them out last year and they wheren't real great but not to bad either. If so where can I get V force petals. If I let it die idling it must be choked to get restarted. The carbs are clean, I thought maybe the low speed circuit might be clogged it's not. I have the idle screws all the way in. The rpms it holds at before dieng are higher then a normal idle rpm. It just doesn't sound right and dies after 15-20 seconds.

More timing if your is stock timing. I could feel the difference from stock to +4 on mine. More compression will also get you some power. Just make sure you are running good enough fuel for this.

Cool man I'll let you know as soon as we get her warrior going. Is App open all year or is it seasonal? If so when is the last day.

Actually a 96 will have ODBII. 95 was the last year for the single catalytic(sp?) converter ODBI LT1's. A 96 LT1 is a good motor it has the vented optispark and ODBII. I had a 85 and 2 97's. The 97's got the updated interior, gauges and centerconsole mostly. You can put a cam in a LT1 with out removing the front clip you must remove the radiator and condensor and it will go in. While you have the intake off clean the rear sealing surface good and lay down a good bead of rtv they are known for leaking there. They T56 is a good tranny and with the .50 6th gear you can get awesome mileage. I could get 30mpg highway in my small cammed(cc305) 97. The 7.5in 10 bolt in the cars are not very strong at all. I had no prblem until I swapped the clutch for a spec stage 3 in my med size(227/233) cam 97 car then it broke the axle twice on street tires in a month. They are good cars and if taken care of are reliable and will last a long time. Just watch out when it rains if you have a old optispark, first time it stutters in the rain you might as well replace the opti. then you wont have to worry edit also all 6 speed cars except 93's will have 3.42 rear gears from the factory. Yes ls1 cars respond beeter to mods. My 227/223 lt1 car probably made 350 to the wheels. My 99 ls1 with a MS4 cam made 415 to the wheels and my LS2 GTO with a large(244/248) cam makes 452 to the wheels. But with each newer car and motor the price went up. SO lt1's though less power are much cheaper, ls1 car prices are going down though.

I was just explaining that i know the effect of different octane fuels. I also posted it since my shee seemed to have the same problem the original poster has after I alsoinstalled a RS stator, I told him I would let him know what fixed mine. Mine just happened to be a coincidence with the the RS install.