BenBB

Nah had to take it down but should be rebuilding it soon, when I get DSL at the house. Ridingorhiding is out at Southern every frickin' Sunday I'm jealous heh. Definitely need to go ridin tho!!

I agree with gimmeabeer, or you could do what the desert racers in the pro class here use; zip tie one of those air horns to your chest protector heh (the ones that look like a freon can with a plastic horn on the end)...

Could be a bad CDI, or coil, or wiring, or...well ya just hafta start testing it, check out the link below for the Electrical FAQ, should walk you through everything. Good luck.

The newer one will prolly have one 5-wire plug instead of two 4-wire plugs, but you can just take the pins out and tape off the 5th wire (it's purple if I remember right), and re-use the old 4-wire connector...mine's a '96 and that's what I did on the Dyna CDI I'm running now. Good luck.

Yeah if it was just one thing...tweak the motor just enough to keep buildin' 'em. Of course if it was a wish list, like everyone else said; completely redisigned airbox/filter setup, round housing swingarm, front suspension geometry (hell the YFZ is close enough heh), aluminum frame would be sick, and since we're throwin' in PV's and EFI, an updated electrical system...

Yep Next weekend there's a desert race at Sandia MX park, I'll be there, as will ABM-Banshee on his Cannibal, ridingorhiding on his Bansh, warwagn on his Raptor, and maybe chipdog on his Banshee. I'd be headed up there to ride at Southern this weekend 'cept I'm goin' to Cisco, TX to race with Sredish and BansheeJen

That's cool but...how 'bout a set of Renthals instead?

A high-speed miss is a symptom of a failing coil, besides the aforementioned not sparkin' or bad leads...

Heh yeah I'm sure I'll regret going into the A class but I coulda sworn I saw something about running the same class as elsewhere...mebbe that was the GNCC that said that, oh well (here with NMDRC all we have is Novice, Amateur, and Pro, I'm in Amateur this year). I'll still have a good time racin' even if I finish dead last I appreciate it man, same goes for you guys, if ya need anything lemme know. I'm not takin' a trailer this time so shee is stayin' on the truck all the way to big D, but I'll try to find ya in the pits when I get there. See ya in a couple days, here's my cell: 505-626-5013

Streetshee!! Where the hell you been? It should work, whether or not it's an elsie, but you are gonna need the whole nine yards to make sure of it; stator, flywheel, CDI, volt reg, battery (or eliminator)...nice pics Rare. You MIGHT be able to get it to work with some rigging without all of the above, but just lookin' at the wiring diagrams between my Bansh and the RZ I'll be running soon, it's alltogether different. Sounds to me like a good way to toast a CDI, which ain't cheap. Good luck.

Thanks J.J., will do!!

Right on Scott I'll find ya. I already mailed the bucks for the electronic tag, just gotta pay for the gate, entry, and year's membership when I get there. Open A, #157...I gotta find some 1's and cram 'em on my number plates somehow, hopefully the e-tag will eliminate any probs reading 'em. I'll be rolling in a white Dodge 1-ton dually flatbed... I gotta work until noon Saturday, so plan is to be in Cisco around 7pm Texas time, check in and sign up, maybe get a practice lap in if they let me, then drivin' on to Kennedale (almost to Dallas!) to stay with my dad. Then drivin' back to Cisco in the morning in time for the rider's meeting, racin' at 9, drive back to Roswell Sunday afternoon...long haul for a weekend heh. Should be a good race tho, weather looks good and I'm anxious to see if I can keep up. I'll scope out that forum, already saw one guy I know gonna be at that race, Ocie from Carlsbad on his YFZ along with his sons and a couple others. Saw on the flyer they're having drags, wheelie contests, and a poker run Saturday, wish I could get there earlier...

Sredish you gonna be there right? Anyone else?

That nails it right there man, in my own useless opinion, people take shit waaaaay to personally. No need to get all emotional, damn, it's just a forum, there's guys and girls here from all walks of life, all over the planet...no limit to what you can learn, if ya don't get all bent outta shape over nothin'

Good to hear he's ok, that's crazy

In general, no; they don't care if you cobbled a V10 motor into a lawnmower frame, as long as ya pay the entry fee (and AMA membership if it's AMA/ATVA sanctioned) they let ya in. Some are more stringent than others on safety requirements (always a good idea; tether kill switch, nerfs, helmet, etc.), and displacement classes (open, 4-choke, etc.). The only exception I've ever seen has been desert racing, since it was on BLM land they mentioned needing current registration and title, but never asked to see it. So if you're racing on public land (cross-country) yes you might need it, if it's on private land (most MX, TT, ST, drags) you prolly won't.

Happy birthday broke!!

NICE! I'm diggin' the maltese cross pasties heh, and that is by far the sickest Sportster I've ever seen

On my stock Banshee rear shock Works told me it would cost $179 for their "heart transplant" (revalve/recharge it with shock oil & nitrogen) and another $50 for seals...that's list price anyway. No tellin' how long it'll hold a charge if ya don't replace the seals though, nitrogen is easy to find at any welding shop but you hafta have the right valve/gauge setup to do it right, well that and know how much pressure it should have...

Right on bigboybanshee, have a good one

Oh hell yeah, I've been playin that single they released to death, must have the CD

I dunno the specific guts of what's inside the control box, but got a basic theory of operation on it: The switch in the thumb throttle housing is a simple on/off switch; when the control box senses this switch's signal (most likely when the circuit is closed-when the thumb throttle has been released), it tells the carb boxes not to raise the slides AND I suspect it tells the CDI (via the black/white kill wire) not to spark above about 1000-1500 RPM. The switch on the e-brake perch is just like the throttle switch; when the e-brake is engaged (and most likely when the switch is open), the control box won't let the slides raise or RPM to increase. I have no idea how the carb boxes work, never had them on mine so haven't had a chance to crack 'em open and see what's in there. Their sole purpose from what I can tell is to prevent the slides from raising when they get a signal from the control box on the black/yellow wire. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like they aren't independent; both are overridden at once or not at all. So essentially, the system will override throttling if the e-brake is engaged, or if the thumb throttle is released. Hope that helps man. BTW that control box makes a handy doorstop heh.

SWEET!! Looks like case reed induction, anybody else think it looks like it has two cranks?? Not sure what they meant by tranny oil lubricating the main bearings, in the next sentence it says fuel mist lubes the crank, hmm. Some crazy exhaust routing to the silencers too, wonder what the expansion chambers look like. But damn, EFI, hydraulic operated dry clutch, 110hp

Same here, but I like the 5th & 7th ones best...