BenBB

You might also double check your axle nut torque. When mine worked loose the pads would wear like crazy, the rotor had enough play on the axle splines that it would wear against the right-hand pad whenever I turned left. Just something else to scope out, everyone else has good suggestions as well. Good luck.

Brace yerself for culture shock heh. I'm in Roswell, Ridingorhiding, Chipdog & warwagn are in Albuquerque, and ABM-Banshee is in Belen. I'm sure there's a few more HQers on here from the land of entrapment. Just West of Albuquerque/Rio Rancho is some of the best trails I've ever been on (just take Southern to the West until ya run out of road), Ridingorhiding is out there every Sunday and I try to make it about once a month. We're running the desert races here but not sure when the next one is, either 4/24 in Alb or 6/5 in Cuba. There's a few MX tracks in Northern NM; J5, Sandia, Moriarty and I think Bernalillo. Only dunes I know of in the state are down here by Roswell, pretty small area tho; LS or Kermit, TX or Walden, CO dunes aren't too far...

I hope so too, best of luck Denny.

Have a good one Led!!

That's fucked up. Sorry to hear it Fireman.

The black box is the CDI, and yes they do fail occaisonally. The easiest way to test that is to swap in a known working one, but from my experience they usually work or don't, it will either run or not even start. Intermittant spark probs are a bitch, yes it could be a loose or broken wire, or the stator...tou could check out the Electrical FAQ below, might help. Good luck.

Water Wetter rules!! Good stuff.

Definitely start with an aftermarket air filter setup, you got alot of options between K&N(s) and foam, airbox or not, but anything is better than stock. Rejet for any motor mods that affect airflow, the more you mod it the more sensitive they seem to get, BUT a little effort in jetting can pay off in a big way. On pretty much any 2-stroke, you can make lots of power relatively cheap and make it as fast as you want with: 1.Intake (higher airflow in-aftermarket filter and remove airbox lid) 2.Exhaust (higher airflow out-pipe it) 3.Higher Compression (shave the head or go aftermarket) 4.Advance timing (degree key, adjustable timing plate, or aftermarket CDI) 5.Reeds/cages (aftermarket reeds on ported cages or complete reed & cage assembly) 6.Porting (from mild to maintain reliability to insane) 7.Crazy (big bore, stroker, powervalves, etc.)

Banshdog is right, you don't need to eliminate the key switch. You can also wire the tether to the black/white and black wires that the handlebar kill switch uses, just piggyback the tether wires to those two (the ground wire of the tether should go to the black ground wire). Both the handlebar kill switch and the tether work the same way; when black/white is grounded to black it tells the CDI to turn the ignition "off". Anyway using the coil will also work, I had mine wired that way and no probs but later found out that Dyna didn't recommend grounding the coil, and CDI's ain't cheap so I rewired my tether to use the black/white wire just in case. Good luck.

Hey Kevin! There's another wiring diagram in the FAQ, at the very end, that shows a simplified wiring diagram, and you can go one step further if you eliminate the lights; All you need to make it run is red, green, red/white, green/white and black from the stator, they all go to the CDI (black also grounds to the frame at an eyelet terminal where the voltage regulator mounts; you don't need the reg except for lights but need that ground). Coming out of the CDI you need black & orange going to the coil, and black/red connected to black (this eliminates the key switch, when the black/red to black circuit is complete the ignition is "on"), and black/white going to a kill switch (when black/white is grounded to black the ignition is "off"). Like you said it sounds more like fuel starvation the way it starts then dies, but there's always a chance you got a loose connection somewhere or wires that are rubbing against the frame. Good luck.

LMAO!!! hahahaha that was hilarious!

I guessed wrong, does that explain why I'm always broke?!!

Here's hopin' for the best Led, I'm sure you'll pull through it. Gotcha covered in my prayers, get well soon man. Isn't Snake Hunt like, this weekend?!!?!

Well at least you got one good ride in heh, that sucks but it sounds like she'll be even meaner when ya get her back together

Most likely because there's no filtration system for the oil like on a 4-choke where the engine oil is common with the tranny, that and keeping the oil changed frequently will keep deposits from forming on the clutch plates extending it's life pretty well. It's less than 2 quarts, isn't shee worth it? Heh I change mine roughly every month, which is typically after one desert race (or hard ride) and one short ride...

Definitely try movin' the pegs back. I did mine, not with Blaster pegs (I hear Raptor pegs also work and are wider or somethin' ), but we just lopped the pegs off the flat plate where it bolts to the frame, cut new plates out of about 1/4" flat plate steel, and welded on the pegs. Take a look at the stock pegs, mine are centered on the two bolts that hold the footpeg to the frame... BUT unless you're sportin' Yeti feet size 15+ you'll also need to shorten the shift lever and the footbrake lever, or buy shorties. I just cut them and scabbed them back on a couple inches rearward. Other than that, yeah either Rox risers or bars with a different bend may help too, I wouldn't suggest buckhorns but hey it's up to you heh. You got the ponies, have you played with the gearing any at all?

Hahaha nice!!

Wouldn't have mattered if it was a Raptor or a Breeze...hehe I thought it was pretty funny, nuthin' personal

Right on Dale, good to hear you're doin' ok, keep your head down and get back soon!

No you don't, I just bent up a coathanger and yank 'em off with that (just a long "U" shape, catch the spring hook at the end of the U and pull it off, works great).

Flammable and acidic?!! Haha that's crazy, might hafta leave that ingredient outta my next Jack & Coke...

Thanks rzbanshee! I see what you're talking about on this diagram (the one in the link), the simplified one I did was done off a kinda crappy diagram I found. A simple toggle switch should work there, right? I'm thinking I'll retain the handlebar on/off switch to ground the black/white wire to kill it, and add a toggle between red and brown as a main ignition "on" switch...

Along with what Fixitrod said, swap out the flywheel just in case. Banchetta had one fail at Coalfest last year and I don't remember the specifics, but it sounds like you have elminated damn near everything else... I kinda skimmed it but looks like the TORS is gone, key switch bypassed, you swapped the coil, CDI, and stator, and checked the wiring for continuity. If you're certain that the wiring harness has continuity, you might also check the black/white wire for resistance to ground (the handlebar kill switch grounds the black/white wire to kill the motor, if it is grounding to the frame somewhere it thinks that switch is "off"). Also I'd double check the ground eyelet terminal where the voltage regulator mounts. Try new plugs (yeah I know duh but had to mention it) and if you can swap in a known working flywheel and see what happens, good luck.

Here's a simplified wiring diagram that I plan on using on mine when I get there: Click this link for the complete factory wiring diagram: http://www.dfn.com/agservices/c8_039.jpg From what I can tell yes you need everything on yer list, and at least one switch to be able to shut off the ignition, beyond that you shouldn't need any RZ-specific handlebar switch or anything. Good luck. BTW I've got a complete service manual if you need it, like 55mb zipped (all jpeg images).

Have a good one Justin!!!